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clee123

SRC TOTQ Winner
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Posts posted by clee123

  1. After battling diatoms for 3 months ,next come mr green dust algae nicely covering my glass wall to the point I need to scrape it off everyday . I understand a new tank would face such algae problem till the tank mature, I also know that it is not good to have your hands in the tank all the time specially for small tank like mine.

    I research in the web that green dust will just float in water after scrape and it will just stick back the wall again .i also came across something like leave it for 21 days till it get thicker and mature so that it will eventually die off.

    Anyone out there have any suggestion or tips b4 i try the 21 days? I dont want to have problems viewing my coral and fish for 21 days for nothing .

    Bro,

    You have to accept that there is no perfect world out there... if you are not willing to wait or cannot tahan for the life cycle of the GDA... then

    use the algae cleaner to scrap off the dust or you take out your fish and watch in other tank.... :heh:

  2. Those product mainly from China or Taiwan... am I right?

    Yes.... I even found (in Taiwan) one LED system that interface with software that can tell you the total output (power) you used for the day for each track (assuming one track is about 6 LED) ... of coz the intensity and colour temperture of each track is configurable for different simulations... :cheers:

  3. The More expensive models always include 2 or more of the following:

    A) switchable mode between blue and white with dimmable ballast

    B) lightning flash mode to stimulate thunder

    C) passing cloud mode to stimulate cloudy day

    D) electronic time mode to control day,evening and night mode

    What if I tell you the less expensive one also has these above features now plus wireless control..??.. :eyebrow: .. I am doing a product review in my thread soon when I received the new toy... :superman:

  4. Thats a lot of saving ! Need to visit you and learn more about your lighting for cost reduction, without compromise to keeping sps.

    cheers,

    mike

    I was surprised too.. :yeah: ... given that I used to have 3x250W MH + 8x39W T5 (6 footer) and 2x150W MH + 2 x 52W T5 (4.5 footer) ... I am still keeping all the T5 but replaced all MHs with Main LED... I think the chillers have less heat to cool down...which contribute to additional power saving... :thumbsup:

    Mike, you are welcome to visit me (PM me when you want to swing over)... best would be end of this month ...as I have a New LED toy arriving with latest technology with at least half or 1/3 of the price of some latest branded LED.. :D:whistle:eyebrow:.. with the new toy, I hope to totally replace all the T5 with LED lighting to further cut down the $$$..

    It's also my hope not just to save the running cost but also a flexible means for me to improve on the colouration of the SPS with the latest technology... :idea:

  5. The main concern I think you should consider would be:

    1) whether the water in the Arowana tank is good and stable enough for your FOWLR tank particularly the soft water KH in which you might need to adjust when mixing with salf.

    2) the spreading of diseases from your Arowana tank (assuming your Arowana is sick) to your marine fishes. :excl: :excl:

    I am not a hardcore reefer myself although I keep SPS/LPS and many fishes (marines and fresh water discus)...

    For marine tank, I use NSW to save the trouble and keeping my maintenance cost down. Sometime out of the blue I do DI with salt-mixed and if lazyness strike me.. I just use tap water with anti chlorine... :big_boss: ..

    For FOWLR tank, I think you can opt for the following:

    1) reduce your water change to bi-monthly and do 10-15% water change - if you decided to use the Arowana tank water (the impact might be lesser and you save half effort and $$$)

    2) do without DI water but use tap water with anti chlorine (left it over-night after salf mixed) - actually the main cost is the replacement DI of resin NOT the water bills!!

    3) buy NSW from the nearest LFS and change water every 2 weeks - minimise trips to LFS and time/efforts to change water...

    Last but not least...make sure you have a good skimmer.... :thumbsup:

  6. wow bro ,thank for sharing your experience and soon will come visit you!

    my eye will pop out once im there ..hehe, you got 3 tank to cope with ha.. bro!!!

    i can really see the shifu in you bro...i'll pm you soon bro as this time quite busy..

    no problem...you are welcome... :cheers:

  7. For the LPS which type or which place can i get the good LED lighting ? Are they came with the Blue LED or just White LED alone ? :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

    Go to Nanyang Aquaurim in Seletar Farm way...They got LED(blue and white) + 2x T5 light set with remote control (can control the blue/white intensity)... I think AM also selling but not sure if the price are good... expected < $500 for 4 feet... > $500 for 5 feet ..

    I am using one for my 4.5 feet planted tank.. :thumbsup: (just for LPS + fish + rocks should be ok..).

    but if you want to go for SPS in the future.. you got to replace the whole set as the light set is in full lenght x width.. :thumbdown: and lighting is not strong enough to go to the "dark side"..

  8. Err Bro, I assume you refer 3 monkeys are your kids? Very bad description

    Err Bro, I assume you refer 3 monkeys are your kids? Very bad description

    ha..haa...as a matter of preferrence, I like that.... do your 3 monkeys including the big female one?? :yahoo:

  9. After 18 months of running my LED lighting with success of growing birdnest, milli, zoa and other corals, I'm going to pursuit further by revamping my current one to widening the LED's color spectrum and also to have better viewing pleasure for my family members.

    I have drafted a few layout plans and the attached picture is my favorite one but not confirm yet.

    All LEDs will be controlled by my Profilux Light II controller and powered by dimmable Meanwell and/or Luxdrive BuckBlock/FlexBlock LED driver.

    All comments & feedback are welcome..... :bow: .

    JawWSLL.jpg

    Bro,

    Great deisgn... can you tell me how you come out with the number of LED used and the ratio? :thumbsup:

  10. Do you guys think i should add more colours like Violet or Turquoise will it help much? Or my current colours are enough.

    I was thinking on the same line...but since you already have the T5 blue and Purple plus...so, you might want to think of "what if " in the future if you decide to change the T5 to white like bro sunny03... :blush:

    If you want the flexibility of changing the T5 lightings...it would be good to include 2 x violet or/and 2 x Turquoise... :idea: :idea:

  11. Sorry bro no picture at the moment, still in planning stage.

    :thumbsup: nice job by bro James :thumbsup:

    Bro from your experience will my plans work? eg. growth, colour of the sps? :ThanxSmiley:

    I would think 25% Warm White and 75% Neutral White would be a better choice...the purple plus actually doesn't cover much of the red specturm ...so you might want to keep the red as is... :cheers:

  12. Hi Bros & Sis

    Im planning customized a LED fixture with t5s fixture.

    Do you think this setup will work well with sps?

    3w cree LEDs details:

    20x Cree Cool white

    13x Cree Royal Blue

    6x Cree BLue

    2x Red leds

    2x 24w t5s details:

    1x ATI Purple plus

    1x ATI Actintic

    Hopefully the T5s will bring out the colours of the sps?

    Comments welcome! Lets discuss this together! :cheers:

    Cheers!

    Bro,

    You might want to check out Bro Jameshong latest DIY's LED design... :thumbsup:

    :score:

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