poomoon

ok i get it. and that metal 'titanium' is resistant to 'sea water' ?

ok. anyway just to share, this is what my BF did to my small tank. it's showing side view. the one on the left is how it was, and the right is after. you see the light hood was raised (about an inch i think) using some L-shaped plastic he got from DIY store, put in 4 of those on the corners of the light hood. now there's open space between. at the same time the flow down from the filter is now also showing (like a waterfall) so i guess having that open concept it also helps cool the water before it goes back to the tank. might not be the best solution, but is working for me now. my lights have no fans, just exhaust slits

umm, do you mean running the tank water in and blowing with a fan ?

haha yeah thanks. sorry also sikiee. we're trying to get the tank in coz we'll be out on holiday for 2 weeks early december, so just nice to have the tank cycling already he said with NSW and some live sand and cured rocks or something

haha. here's another one. this thing can just wrap around you if it wants to ...

hey jacky. umm, my BF still checking it out. since i wanted a bigger tank NOW and it's still in my room, he said maybe we can set-up a 1.5 cube like yours first. so now he's quoting for a crystal glass something. dunno if he ordered already. will keep you posted

true. i have one similar tank, and before i have my temp at 29-30 deg. had 2 pumps inside for filter and flow. no fans. so added an air pump to aerate, then did a DIY to raise the cover and have it like 'open concept' raising it about 1 inch. now temp is normally at 27-28 deg, and with aircon running it drops to about 26 deg. just my 2 cents. now planning to do a slightly DIY LED to help lower the temp more. without the lights can go 24-25 for me.

shouldn't be that the fans are 'drawing out' the heat from the lights and blowing it outside ? - Chiller - cost, but most effective - Evaporative cooling (fans blowing on the surface of the water) - need daily water top-up, humidity btw, with the lights off, what's the temperature ?

wow cute, such a doll oh she was sick ? yeah she looks ok and happy. hope she's ok now

good call your little princess seems very happy kissing mickey

wb jacky. so anything u got from hk ?

bombarded, nah. yes of course, as i know he said 20k is considered acceptable depending on certain conditions that the maintenance reaches that level. but i did hear from him saying most claim 40-50k

hi, my BF travelling now, he's the one who wrote that. Not sure were from, but I dot think it is from manufacturer, not sure if it's like a general thingy. I'll check with him. Wow my minds is being bombarded with so much info already.

hehe ok thanks. yup.

question : between these shades of blue, does it bring out the natural coloration, or enhance ?

ohhh ... well, drew what he meant : point A is like zero time, and point B is another time B. at time B, the blue line (MH) is low already, while LED (red) is still high. if you now take the total from point A to B, the gab between A and B is how much more you'd get from the LED across that period. Compare.bmp

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haha, time specific - period >> meant the same. yes, i think it's because of what i mentioned above. and of course, LED's cooler ... not only temperature, also how they look

not sure about the wattage comparison, i assume this is taken across time. since if you compare MH and LED maintenance, the % degradation for MH is about 30 degrees slope declining based on a certain operating life (so about 70% maintenance), well as for LED you would only see less than 1-2 %, thus in average you are transmitting more. that is also why across the same time, due to the output drop, the MH output (even originally higher than LED) will be equivalent or even lower than the LED output.

hehe, sorry my BF also no expert, just sharing his 2 cents, he used to work in optics engineering . the PAR you mentioned is related to wavelength and transmissibility that the plants need to start photosynthesis. water even a very clear one can reduce even 50% or more, but usually this is talking about great depths (say 20-30m), but also depends on the wavelength. blue light is normally used since it has a short wavelength and typically decrease maybe less than 1% in clear water about 1m depth. in salt water, you have all these particles plus the surface itself which adds to deminishing transmission. Plus how high is your fixture from the water level is, which is more on transmission coverage.

yup, typically manufacturers will claim lumens maintenance of up to 20,000 to 50,000 hours, considering ideal conditions. but we know in reality a lot of other factors step in

120 degree optics will be over 85% transmission. below 90 degrees will give over 90% transmission. consider light deminishing with depth (due to scatter/ bending / diffusion) but normally this is in "metres", so probably not much for the aquarium tank - also from my BF

70% lumen maintenance is typically acceptable within 20,000 hours of use, for general lighting, 80% for more stringent requirements. Hi-LEDs are at around 3-5% lumens maintenance drop every ~5,000 hours of use. it would also depend on the ambient and lighted temperature conditions in the system, of course higher temperatures will degrade this performance further. -- just quote from my BF

made in china, so should be cheap, just hope the quality is good. Looks good and sturdy though ...

isn't this the one that Jacky just got ?