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samuel88

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Posts posted by samuel88

    Fish and Palythoas

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    Hi, as most of you may know, palythoas are toxic when ingested, but does anybody have experience with a paly harming a fish that maybe brushed against it?

     

    I'm getting a frogfish and i'm worried it will get hurt if it rests on a paly.

    1L Pico Reef

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    3 hours ago, kakak99 said:

    You want to take a close up shot of the brown little slugs you mentioned?.. They should be dangerous pest.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     

    you have a good point, and i did think they might be pest too, but they have been in my tank since the beginning and haven't really seen any damage done to the coral. I'll post a pic and hopefully my camera phone can capture the details. They hang around mostly on the glass, haven't seen them on corals.

    1L Pico Reef

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    Hi everyone,

    I'd like to present my 1L pico reef inspired by reef vases.

    Currently it is only holding softies like Xenia and different kinds of Zoanthids and Palythoas and a lot of brown little slugs, copepods, and bristleworms, theres even a oyster of some sort although its not very visible (on the right side of the tank blending in with the rockwork).

    Equipment used includes a glass jar i bought from Daiso, an Airpump with airline tubing, a plastic container lid i place on the top to prevent evaporation, and lastly a Beamswork LED, i can't remember which model but it cost about $40 plus. So total tank setup (not including corals) would be around $50 to $60.

    When I first started off, I overdosed microbacter7 to saturate the substrate with bacteria, and after about 2 week to a month I started adding new corals.

    Maintenance is done once a week, I do a 100% water change with coral pro red sea salt and pluck out as much algae as I can. I also dose 1 drop of Microbacter7 after each water change. I use a airline tubing to suck out all the water from the tank (up til the substrate level), and after wiping the inside of the tank with a piece of tissue, I slowly pour in the new water over my hand into the tank to prevent damage to the corals. I do not test the water parameters as I do 100% changes, aside from testing the salinity from time to time.

    The tank has been running since the beginning of March, and has not been without its share of problems in the beginning, but things have really started to stabilize and there is even sprouting of new zoanthid polyps.

    One of the issues I ran into is that introducing a number of corals at a time can trigger a bacterial bloom within half a day, but that was quickly remedied after doing a few 100% water changes. So taking that into consideration I decided that whenever I introduce livestock I should be around for that day to do a emergency water change.

    Aside from the issue of introducing too many livestock at once, the tank has been really stable, I really like this tank because it is my least troublesome tank that I have had so far. Being tiny allows me to appreciate the little things that go unnoticed like how the copepods scurry about their daily lives and the little details on corals. The rounded edges on the sides also act like a magnifying glass.

    Thanks for reading if you made it this far, feel free to ask me any questions!

     

     

     

    20170608_154033.jpg

    • Like 1

    Aiptasia X - Review

    in Product Reviews

    Posted

    Hi all, i've been using aiptasia X, and i'd like to give the pros and cons here for others.

     

    Pros:

    it really does kill aiptasia, and it can remove the problem provided you follow the instructions, which says to basically smother the entire aiptasia in it, this is to prevent the root from regrowing, or spreading its seeds for lack of a better word.

    it doesn't seem to harm my mushroom corals.

     

    Cons:

    For those hard to reach Aiptasia which you can't see the base of it, this does not work as well, and it is likely to trigger spawning from the aiptasia.

    It has been shown to injure or kill my Zoanthids, tested this multiple times. Even if it touches the Mat of the zoanthid it starts to melt away the Mat. so for hard to reach aiptasia who hide between your corals, tough luck.

     

     

    • Like 2

    Recommended Lighting Upgrade for 20 Gallon Tank

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    hi guys, i need some recommendations on what lighting to get. Currently i'm using a 60cm Dymax Rex LED light, the box doesn't really mention stuff like specs but it cost like 60 to 70$ and i always hear people say lighting is one of the more expensive parts of the tank, so i'm kinda doubting that my light is really good for my corals since its cheaper than those few hundos lighting i keep seeing.

    My tank is 2 feet length, and close to 2 feet in height. Right now have softies and LPS, maybe considering SPS in future.

    Thanks!

     

    DI unit instead of RO/DI

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    On 04/13/2017 at 6:13 AM, vincentwangz said:

    Yes I have a 5 stage DI unit; 1 sediment filter, GAC, carbon block, and 2 resin. It produces 0 TDS for me. I have to replace resin after 6 Mths.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    How fast is the water flow when using a Di system? When I used RO the water just trickles out, is it the same for DI?

    2 Feet 20 Gallon Frogfish Tank

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    Welcome to my aquarium log!

    I've been a long time reefer with a 5 gallon tank which has been with me for 3 years (I might share this one next time), and therefore a month ago i decided to keep a frogfish tank as I have tried keeping one in the past in a 25 gallon tank but failed miserably as I made mistakes such as not establishing beneficial bacteria, not having enough live rock, poor filtration, etc. etc. but I find them so interesting and endearing.

    So somehow the spark got reignited and I now have a tank with a striated angler in it, i know they can get quite big, but the one i have now is small ATM, and I plan to let him go when he gets too big. Or maybe upgrade my tank so I can keep him.

     

    Tank Specs:

    Lighting:

    1. Dymax 2 Feet REX LED

    Filtration:

    1. 1400 L/H overhead filter with DIY drip tray > phosphate removal filter pad > filter floss pad > 100ml Purigen > 500ml Seachem Matrix.
    2. 440 L/H Eheim canister filter with 350ml Eheim mech ceramic rings > coarse filter pad > 750ml Seachem Matrix > 100ml Seachem Seagel > filter floss pad > carbon filter pad.
    3. 10kg Liverock
    4. 1 to 2 inch dry sand

    Flow:

    1. 600 L/H powerhead

    Livestock:

    1. Antennarius Striatus
    2. 3 Halloween hermit crabs
    3. Miscellaneous snails, asterina starfish, etc that came with the live rock.

    Temperature control:

    1. ANS cooling fan rated for 60L to 100L tanks

    Maintenance:

    Weekly:

    1. Feed frogfish either ghost shrimp/mollies/guppy.
    2. 10% water change
    3. change filter pad on overhead filter if needed
    4. dose Seachem Stabilty per instructions

    Monthly:

    1. Clean out Eheim canister; replace filter pads, rinse media with tank water, replace seagel when water color looks off, etc.

     

    I will post up close pictures next time!

     

    20170413_140108.jpg

    DI unit instead of RO/DI

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    Hi guys,

    I have an RO/DI unit at home, but it produces more waste water than I would like, I really hate watching the waste water go down the drain.

    So I am thinking of removing the RO unit and just run activated carbon with DI,

    Has anyone done this before? Did you manage to get 0 or close to 0 TDS water?

     

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