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tofubox

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Posts posted by tofubox

  1. Yeah, i think if possible, ill try to get a par meter to do readings again for the new scape. 

    I  will be aiming to achieve a mix system, with both LPS and SPS. Main sps will be staghorns, montiporas and some  specific acros. LPS mainly will consist of Zoas , soft corals and euphyllias 

    Yeah, CR is pretty pricey, but this tank is for the long term, so hopefully it will work out well. 

    Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it. Forum seems quite now a days 

    • Thanks 1
  2. Thanks bro. My lights used to sit 11 inch off to surface, with the new scape, i have dropped it to 8 inches. Its running at 67% intensity, still got room to increase if needed, dont plan to go lower than 8 inches due to the light coverage on the width of the tank. Only been 2 days, so just have to watch the corals. I follow the same intensity and setting as the WWC 293gallon system, their lights are 11 inches off, and the depth is much deeper, but no issues. 

    I am running the 612 x 2 Geo CR. Its a dual chamber reactor. Figured I can go big on the reactor, run extra coarse media and tune it to run at a higher ph of 6.8-7.2. That way media usage will be lower, lesser top ups and still get sufficient alk/cal output. 

  3. Finally got about rescaping the tank, after i came back from overseas. Really liking the new scape, everything is pretty much stand alone, allowing me to move them as the corals grow larger. Plenty of room now for the staghorns to grow unlike the previous scape. Also looks cleaner and neater. 

    Main idea is that the blue, green and red staghorn will fill up 3/4 portions of the tank. Lower portions will be filled with montipora caps and other sps. Will be focusing on only selected SPS. 

    The center small piece of rock will house a toadstool leather. 

    Right side will be an LPS corner as the waves there are much weaker. The rock will be covered with all types of zoas. 

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    Still having issues with my alkalinity, I figured its mostly due to the dosing pump trapping small pockets of air, resulting in inconsistency. Just waiting on my CR to arrive in SG, takes about 3 weeks to build the cr. Have all the parts ready, just short of the reactor. I am hoping the CR will really make the tank more consistent. 

     

  4. Unfortunately not everything goes as swee even with some experience.

    Came back from overseas to find two of my sps mini colonies had RTN. Main factor was probably instability with my parameters even with auto dosing. My alk went from 8.6 down to 7.4 in two nights. I reckoned I added corals too quickly.

    Moving forward, gonna make some major changes to the system.

    1. Adding sand, to give a more natural look and hoping it will help to stabilize the system further.

    2. Changing over to a calcium reactor. Dosing is great, but i reckon for my system, a CR will improve it overall and also supplement some minor trace elements in the process. Magnesium and acropower will still be dosed automatically.

    3. Rescaping to make the entire scape lower to provide more room for growth

    4. Removing some fishes and replacing them with "Nano tank" suitable fishes. 

    5. Limiting the types/varieties of SPS, instead of trying to collect a varied amount of sps with different requirements.

    Will update with some pics with the upcoming changes.

     

     

  5. Flow should be fine, if your worried, can get the 12k version and just tune down the flow with the controller. Maybe something for you to consider....u can get the 9k turbine duo, and also install another smaller sized return pump plumbed to the chiller using a Y shaped joint.  In that way, if either pump fails, u still have redundency. I am about to convert my own 6k to do that.

  6. Decided also to remove the biopellet reactor and just run GFO. My nutrient levels were too low, and my PH swings were too big. In the day, my PH could hit 8.3, in the night it would dip down to 7.7. Its only been a day since i did the switch, but the PH seems more stable in the night. 

    Nutrient export at the moment, weekly auto 15% WC, Wet skimming with nyos skimmer, Rowaphos in reactor, Cheato algae reactor. 

    Anyone running Biopellets can give ur feedback on PH swings?

    PH.thumb.png.f7f83efbc142633e938d4ece0cd41d0c.png

    Did some Par testing after a kind friend lent me his apogee.

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  7. Updates, transferred some more corals from the QT tank. Also some newer additions. 

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    FTS 

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    Bought an RBTA that free floated and went into the wavemaker. Got half its body chopped. Couldn't do anything as I had to leave for work and only back 48hrs later. Came back and was surprised that everything survived! wet skimming and auto water change saved the day. Pictures were 2 days after the RBTA got chopped. 

    3rd round of harvest. Decided to add a plastic mesh to the top to prevent future blockages.

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    Water Parameters have stabalised with the auto water change system running full time.

    CA: 440

    KH: 8.6

    PH: 8.3

    MG: 1390

    Light Period: 12.5 Hours

    Nitrates and phosphates are undetectable. Not what I want, so i'm double feeding now. 

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  8. Some updates to the tank. Added a Xiaomi home security camera to monitor the tank when I am away. Proved to come in useful when I was away in Sydney for work.

    Apex sent me a message tank temperature passed 27 degrees, opened up my camera and noticed the chiller was reading 27, it would cool down, den immediately raise back up to 27 again. I knew right away the chiller wasn't faulty, but the algae reactor must have caused a blockage to the outflow since it was linked together. 

    Came back to a temperature of 28.5, exactly as i expected, the algae reator proved to be more efficient than I thought, it was completely filled and blocked / slowed the flow. 

    Other alternative was I could have asked someone to just switched on the aircon till I got back, but I knew the corals would do fine till I get back.

    Other use for the camera is I can remotely switch off the skimmer through apex when it is full.

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    Added some frags to the main display after a short QT and series of dips Just some photos of some of the frags to share. Taken with iphone with orange DD lens. Sorry for the poor quality. 

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  9. 5 hours ago, MarcoVan said:

    they said getting Dragon fire and perhaps shards of Valyrian steel will help can battle nudi since they are distant cousins of white walker. I say “aye!”emoji57.png


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    wah bro, u got serious post GoT syndrome. Hahaha 

  10. Came back from a week overseas for work. Everything was doing well, did not lose or suffer any casualties. Parameters were all spot on, plenty of encrusting for the acroporas. However, I am thankful i QT-ed my corals.

    I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

    617252472_nudi1.thumb.jpg.921614889db124c97ad2cca1415834fe.jpg

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    Killed off tons of Montipora eating nudibrunch, everything single "brownish spots" are nudibrunch.

    83712190_Nudi6.thumb.jpg.07fd532b6ce469ab53d4781a234141ca.jpg

    No idea how I am gonna deal with this, most of the montipora were affected. I am going to try dipping every 5 days to hopefully get all the adults when they hatch. Lifecycle for egg spawn is 36-72 hours, they grow to adult size and lay eggs around a week old. Hoping to break the cycle. 

    FYI, if the corals were in the main tank, reviews on reef2reef showed even keeping the tank empty of montis for 6 months did not work. 

    QT saved the day.

     

  11. I am also using Caribsea live rocks, main tank has just finished cycling, about 2 months. I haven't switched on the lights, so not sure about nuisance algae issue. But My qt tank which has some caribsea rocks went through the normal diatom phase which lasted 3-4 days, addition of snails solved it all. 

    Didnt experience the foam but there was slight discoloration. 

    Sps should encrust as per norm as I have used these rocks before in a previous setup.

    If you can afford time to get live rocks and bleach/cure them, it would be the best route. Else the caribsea gives you a piece of mind but the seeding of bacteria and cycling imo takes longer. I used dr tims as well as brightwell microbacter 7.

  12. wow very interesting, a octopus in a pico tank. I would recommand putting macro algae in there, some green and red types will make it nice. 

    Just curious, was it a locally caught octopus? Cause I am wondering how it can stand the heat in sg. Im gussing you dont run a fan or chiller as the evaporation rate will be crazy for a pico.

  13. Coral QT tank sprung a leak. Discovered it when i realised the auto top off reservoir was using more water than usual, and the S.g of the water dropped. Emptied and transferred the corals to a spare tank I had put aside. As expected, bottom of the tank was completely wet, but unable to find the location of the leak, it was probably leaking at a slow rate, hence I could not tell sooner.

    This was the tank that leaked. I am guessing as I got it 2nd hand, there was some age to it. 

    IMG_3067.thumb.jpeg.6e221df2f2865d0e72897704c1086b18.jpeg

    Transferred all the corals to the new tank. It is only a 14 gallon tank, slowly raising the SG back up. Didnt loose any corals, they are growing and encrusting fast. Cant wait to move it to the main display.

    Taken under orange lens,  too much exposure, colours dont look sharp. The rainbow stylo turned out white.

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    Under yellow lens

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    On a side note, started automatic water change on the main display. I am really impressed by the APEX Dos system. It works really well. From what I read online, it says it can manage about 2000 gallons of water before replacing of the pump head. With 30L a week, that equates to couple of years. But I wont push it. System is straight forward, pulls out old water from tank to the waste container and pushes  new water from reservoir to display tank. Would recommand if u already own an apex system

  14. Having trouble replying threads on my com, so I’m gonna be using tapatalk

    Updates for those who asked about the algae reactor. I think pictures will explain it all.

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    After harvest:

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    My personal opinion on this. It does work as advertised. But if I were to choose, I would select a size larger then what is recommended for the tank volume. I Guess it is self explanatory, the larger the reactor, the more cheato u can grow. The lesser u need to harvest over time.

    Pros: It lowered nutrients naturally, light encourages good growth in reactor. Good if u have limited space in sump or need an external method of nutrient removal.

    Cons: no after sales service, no spare parts available in sg. Slow and takes time to watch nutrients drop due to limited size of reactor I’m using. The lid uses plastic screws to tighten, opening and closing every month may cause wear and tear which may lead to eventual leaks.

    Will be nice if any LFS is willing to bring in the paxbellum or the pacific sun reactors. Spare parts should also be made available.

    Happy reefing.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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