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simmonsim

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Posts posted by simmonsim

  1. Am a newbie in this hobby, hope to get some more advise.

    My current idea is, already have a 5 feet stainless steel rack & this 4 feet is to be put on top of it with overflow box (8mm glass) attached on the side. (Divider type tank)

    My concern is :

    01) Do I have to put TOP & BOTTOM bracing ? For TOP bracing, how should I do it ? Heard there are so many designs.

    02) How high is the TOP bracing ? Any recommendation on the measurement ?

    03) What is the best measurement for overflow box ?

    My plan is A : 3 inches, B : 6 inches, C : 6 inches, D : 10 inches & E : 12 inches

    04) Do I need only one hole for water flow down to sump tank ? What is the diameter recommended ?

    05) For the overflow box, what type of gadget or piping do I need to do to get water down to overflow as silent as possible & design to avoid overflooded ?

    That's all my question at the moment. And, sorry for my poor english.

    Thanks :bow:

    Simmon

  2. Oh I see, Thanks for the explanation.

    I dont think I will be using gravity feed as my drum will be on a cabinet in the kitchen. It will be a sore view for me to have piping running on my floor if I am using gravity feed. So if I am using feed pump, what are the switches or valves that I can do ATO automatically & Water Change manually ??

  3. Hi Rajreef, am really a newbie here. Sorry to ask, what's the Kalk Reactor for ? Using what type of media ?

    Was actually planning to do something similar to the above (but without Kalk reactor coz I do not know what's it's for, do enlighten me) but it's a bit of 2 in 1 (ATO + WATER CHANGE).

    My concept was running tap water thru RO/DI into BIG drum which is about 80 liters, I will make a smal tube/piping at the side bottom of the drum & connect it all the way to my sump. At the end of the tube, I will connect with float switch. So whenever the water is below my required level, it will always Top Off by itself. I may also connect on/off valve before the float switch for below purpose.

    As for WC, I will mix the salt into the BIG drum a night before, measure the salinity, switch OFF the valve for ATO. On the next day, after I drain out the water or syphon out all the debris inside my tank then I will switch ON again the valve before the float switch and the water will flows in until my desired level.

    Is this workable? Any better suggestion ?

    Thanks

  4. Hi Harlequin, I have thought of that(using 12mm) before but my concern is am currently staying in a rented property. Worried about if next time I do move to another place, will it be very troublesome as I saw so many reefers are selling off / decomm when they wanna move to another place. Just wish I can take all these with me if I move to another home. It's gonna be heart breaking :( (quite expensive) for me if I sell it off as I am planning to do both large panel using starphire glass, anyone has use this material before ?

    So is it still not advisable to use 10mm with Top & bottom bracing, if so, then I have to cut down cost to use normal green glass instead.

    Thanks again :thanks:

  5. Hi all & gurus,

    Just joined in this forum almost 3 weeks. Am planning to buy a 4ft tank which need to be customade by tank maker. Btw, I am from Malaysia.

    Question to ask to build my tank I am planning to do 4ft x 2ft x 2ft - 10 or 12mm dual view tank/divider tank. Is it necessary to put brace on all top & bottom of the tank or just bottom or top only ? What is the dimension of the brace is sufficient enough to hold it ?

    Thanks

    Simmon Lee

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