Gouldian
-
Posts
5,969 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Gouldian
-
-
You are not the only 0ne bro... .
-
thanks for your advise guys, but i give up already coz all my fish die one by one & step by step due to all kind of parasite in my tank
..so i dicided to do a 100% water change & restart again..i know i will lost all good bacteria there but i have no choice..is there any posibble that parasite in my tank is still there? how long will it take to secure that my tank was free from parasite? even after 100% water changes..thanksIf you have already dose copper in your tank, I don't think 100% water change will do as your sandbed and LR will still leach copper upon setting up wrecking havoc to your system.
That is why, it is prudent never dose cooper into main tank especially when you use full dosage.
If I were you, I will discard all sand and LR and start from ground zero.
Most disease can be prevented with:
- Proper set-up
- Proper stock selection
- Proper acclimation
If you follow the above diligently, you will never need to treat your tank. That's how most of the successful reefers follow.
Hope that helps.
-
If its at the bottom the overflow compartment, you need not tear down. All you need is to siphon water from the overflow compartment can liao. Unless you do not have a overflow box with your overflow pipe.
If you have a overflow box and the leaking is between the overflow bulk head and the tank, herewith what you do:
- Siphon water from the overflow box
- Remove bulk head
- Clean up the area, cut away remnants silicon
- Re-apply silicon
- Wait for 2 day
- Test with some fresh water
- Siphon fresh water
- Complete
During this 2 days, all you need is to ensure sufficient flow, reduce feeding and lights, install a hang skimmer is available.
Re-sealing your bulk head without dismantling will only cause you to have more problem in the long run. This is because, you will end up covering the entire area of the bulk head with the adhesive making it impossible for you to remove the bulk head in the future.
As mentioned by another bro, you should call your tank maker, most tank maker are happy make good such issue.
-
I have used the Digilab before and fine it quite reliable until the batteries are running low. I have revert back to refractometer as I find it a hassle to get replacement batteries.
-
Hi guys,
Looking for the above, please PM me if you have 1 for sale.
-
Yes bro, a shame, I even lost the Dracula u found.
The Palys are still ok so I am thinking the trochus as they dun seem to do as well as compared to the ones in my other tub or pail.
Maybe your kena the same curse as me...... Cannot Post Photo of Tank Curse.
-
Bad news, came home today and saw one of my Toyogo tub's water turning cloudy. Upon closer inspection, apparently some inverts (suspect is my trochus snail) died and spark a spike in nutrient in the tub causing total death in my trochus snails population for that tub together with rics and some zoas . Did a 70% water change as the smell is starting to emit. Starting to miss my tank maker to complete the rest of the pipings and get the tank running. Ironically, the tub with chiler running gave problem while the remaining though without much inverts without chiller are still doing fine
.Could it be the paly that was slightly above water surface.
Pity, as those in the tub were very nice specimens.
-
Below are the pictures of the Fluval Sea SP4 pump. From the initial look, the pump is quite solidly build and yes it is a ASKOLL pump. I have not run it yet but once I run it, will give a update on its performance, noise and heat.
Yeah... !
Italian pump or Chinese pump - Italian of course.
-
Thanks bro, the reason I am considerating Sodium Bi-carbonate is because is cheap and can get from any supermarket. I will try and see how it goes and hopefully not experience too much swing in PH. Thanks for advice.
Supermarket is not cheap, if you want to get cheap Sodium B-Carb, you can try bakery supplies store such as Phoon Huat - these are food grade baking soda.
However, for convenient sake, why not just get from our sponsors whenever you are there.
-
Got la bro at least i have my nemo pair, yellow tang and also a baby hippo tang which i will be giving off once this hdb is too small to let him stay.
I'm happy enough by looking at my fish swim happily for now till i emulate a suitable environment for my coral.
When during newbie time very kan jiong everything just buy buy buy and die die die. 3rd tank already i have learned patient is the key to success.
-
Thank you… I have lost some zoas recently… Will need to rid them before more of my zoas are lost...
Looks more like collonista sp. to me. Check out this article -
Sun dials snails have very distinctive markings - https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=sundial+snails+zoanthids&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=oq_oUYroNYXKrAea1YGQCg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=737
-
Hi,
I read that dosing the baking soda will increase the KH, but should I baked it or not? assuming my PH now is around 8.3. Heard dosing the unbaked one will cos the PH to drop and KH to increase and dosing the baked one will increase both PH & KH. Correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks
Baking soda is just the common name for Sodium Bi-Carbonate bakers use them as a leavening agents, which means they are added to baked goods before cooking to produce carbon dioxide and cause them to 'rise'.
Baking soda can also be used for household cleaning.
For our application, baking soda is mixed with RO/DI or Distilled water to increase/maintain KH. Using baking soda (Sodium Bi-Carbonate) can cause the temporary drop in the pH of the tank. But tanks with sufficient water movement and aeration can easily equilibrate the drop in pH.
You can also converts the Sodium Bi-Carbonate into Sodium Carbonate by heat and therefore reduce the risk of lower pH by spreading the baking soda on a tray and bake for 1 hour in the oven at 200°.
Alternative is to just get Sodium Carbonate rather than Sodium Bi-Carbonate.
-
will this method b advised if I've got corals?
It is best to do hyposalinity treatment is a hospital tank. Most organism cannot survive hyposalinity treatment is long term except for higher life (Fishes).
I saw your other post on your powder blue and I suggest you remove your fish for hypo.
Also, as some reefers has already advised, your tank may be too new and unstable to have fishes that are prone to ich.
Hope that helps.
-
Not sabo but am really not good at piping works so this piping works is a combination of the advice from Reef Systems and your end.
-
Will update my flow system but am no sifu here. Pretty nuts when comes to piping and system
, usually is bro Gouldian who gave me the advice.Oii, sarbo ah....
-
My return should be 2*32mm and the reason I opt for 2 units rather than 1unit of return is more for contingencies and also each pump will be teed off for different purposes.
Yes, the Fluval sea are Askoll pump and specially made for Saltwater and marine usage.
We can only speculate Fluval is a Askoll pump from the build and also from the past relationship between Hagen and Askoll.
Here's some background:
Around 2009, many in US realized that Red Dragon is using motor block from Askoll and this causes many reefers to switch to Laguna pumps as reefers found similarity between the motor block of RD and Laguna.
Askoll is one of the largest washing machine pumps manufacturer in the market.
However, a reefer in UK wrote an enquiry to Hagen (parent company of Laguna and Fluval) and instead of claiming that Laguna pump is suitable for marine usage. Hagen representative replied that Laguna pump are not manufactured for marine usage. This email causes a stir as several reefers around the world already started using Laguna and have also wrote good reviews on it.
As time passes there were many Laguna users reported pumps failures. It was later realized that Laguna pump are not manufactured to run out-sump and will high head that is required for a marine sump pump. Thus the pump electronic shut off the pump once the pump reaches a certain preset temperature.
With this incident, Hagen gained respects from hobbyists around the world (including me). They could have claimed that Laguna pumps can be used for marine and quietly change their specs without anyone knowing but they chose to state in black and white that it is not manufactured for marine applications and risks loosing some quick bucks.
Thus, when I learned that Fluval will be launching a pump made for marine sump application, I started to look out for it and at the same time read reviews of its usage in Europe and North America's forums and am pleased to say that it is reasonably good.
I am also happy to learned that the price of the pump (Singapore) is very attractive compared to what is on the market now. The documentations and accessories that comes with the pump is ample compared to the China-made pump.
In accordance to the reviews I have read and also from my personal experience, I find this pump is an affordable alternative to the China-made pump currently in the market. However, to be realistic, do not expect this pump to meet the performance of the top range pumps from Europe.
I also find that their head-loss chart to be truthful unlike some brands whereby they just re-used head-loss chart from known brands. -
My bad should be cm or 1200mm * 660mm *450mm
Edited mm to cm as requested
-
You may want to try JNS Bio-Pellets Reactor, saw them in actions recently - superb.
http://reefbuilders.com/2013/04/01/jns-omega-biopellet-reactor-vertical-churning/
-
did WC on Sun abt 40%. kH & GH tested yesterday was about 9. BUT the shocking thing is NO3 is 100mg/l. and N02 is 25! its like even worst then before dosing. plus I have bio-sphere in the sump. No wonder the skimmer was like half a cup full before water change. suspect it maybe died fishes as I have not seen my 2 angel for a few days. The problem will be tat the scape is heavily rocked and to even try to find them will be a nightmare. plus may coz the parameter to go haywire.
BTW the sand bed is about 3-4inch in the front part and rear abot 6inch
Bio-sphere is also carbon source and I wouldn't use bio-sphere together with vinegar/vodka/sugar as you will only introduce too much carbon.
Since, you already have bio-sphere, I will suggest you stop all form of carbon dosing to avoid overdose of carbon which will screw your tank up big time.
I will also advise stopping all activities except for water change until your NO2 is zero and your NO3 is below 5ppm. Do this first and then slowly twitch other imperfections in your set-up.
-
Bought white vinegar from Phoon Huat. Can it be used? No flavorings or preservatives. Also thinking of using to kill some aiptasia
You can use any vinegar as long as its unflavoured, no preservatives and no coloring. However, I will not recommend using vinegar to kill aiptasia in your tank as the excess vinegar will wreck havoc to your tank parameters. Besides, I don't think your can eliminate aiptasia with just a couple of squirts of vinegar.
-
Some doctor fish feeds on frozen prepared food, example marine life cleaner wrasse already trained to feed on his food, greatly enchancing this fish survival rate compared to older times. Of cos u will have to buy his frozen food to continue feeding this fish in your tank if u decided to get from him. Make sure it is already feeding before buying. Also, other fishes in the tank will like this food very much too.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
You are right, Henry is one of the few pioneers manages to successfully keep CW!
In my opinion, ML is also the LFS that have the highest success rate in CW. -
I read in a reef magazine that cleaner wrasse may not be suitable in home aquarium setup.
The reason is that it needs constant feed on parasites. And this supply is limited in home aquaria.
Many times it will end up being chased out when trying to find parasite which will lead to stress and in the end will die.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Yes, what you read was what we all believe many years ago. During that time, it was considered a sin to be seen buying CW. Until about 7-8 years ago, more and more reefers reported to have success with the CW. Now, it is no longer a surprising to see a healthy CW in a reefer's tank. I have a CW that feeds on pellets the moment it was introduced into the main tank.
-
did 5 ml dose this morning instead of 15ml at night. pH dropped to abt 7.9ish. did magnsium and sodium dosing as well as pH plus to push the pH up again. this time pH back to 8.05 much faster. Bt i do notice that pH recently is on the very low 8 where previously its like 8.2. will test all parameters tonight
When you dose carbon source, your bacteria population will bloom thus you experience a low nutrients environment. However, high population of bacteria will also deplete O2 therefore suppress pH. So ensure good aeration to meet the O2 demands.
-
Should be ok as they are usually found in higher nutrients area. As you have read, leather will release "toxins" preventing the growth of hard corals. So I wouldn't recommend you adding hard corals if you are having leather corals in a tank without skimmer.
Water evaporation in tank
in General Reefkeeping_
Posted
My evaporation rate is about 2.8-2.9l daily, this is because I have 3 wavemakers pointing towards the surface thus super high evaporation rate. If the wavemakers are not pointed to the surface, my evaporation rate can cut by 1l daily.