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Steel Toe

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Posts posted by Steel Toe

  1. Oh..I missed the part on your carbon and GFO.

    I've read it somewhere that the effectiveness of Kent Tech M to deal with bryopsis is not the magnesium but it's the impurities in the Kent tech M which they kept it secret that kills the bryopsis. So maybe the carbon must have absorb the impurities. Not really sure about GFOs.

    So I suggest stop dosing. Continue doing your routine regular WC until the magnesium level hits 1500, then raise up again slowly Kent tech M until 1800 and maintain it as long as you can until all bryopsis are gone. Make before raising make sure all carbon or absorbent removed.

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  2. Oh my! My magnesium at 1800+ now. Bryopsis shows very little signs of wilting.... I'll take a few pics more probably.

    It's a positive sign. The effect is not immediate but you can see it is doing its job. So be patience and monitor.

    Now hold and maintain at that level.

    If you doing water change, top up and maintain the same level as you are right now.

    Try to remove manually as much as you can. After that all you need to do is just watch and observe for the kent M to take effect.

    Results and duration may vary. If you can see changes, you are on the right path and the battle has begun.

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  3. I have soft and some sps at that time. All corals and fishes not affected by the high mg but I think the snails maybe a bit weak as they having a hard time trying to hold themselves on the glass.

    If you want to start dosing Kent mg, the begin with 1600 and monitor for changes. If nothing happens push up another 100 an monitor.

    What I think the key in high mg is to kill the young and new growth. Once you notice these changes, begin your main assault on the old ones.

    Do monitor the young ones. They will grow back to fight back but if it didn't kill them at that level that you hold, push up another 100 and hold.

    The key here is not to let the new one grow forever and remove the old one. If the new one can't grow and the old one totally remove. Monitor for another month until all clear then gradually lower down the mg. Hope that helps.

    Always remember, these buggers don't really give up so easily so you must always keep a look out for those really stubborn ones.

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  4. I've battled with bryopsis before and I've won.

    Before the battle, I did my research and found not all brand of mg did the job and there are only two particular brand of mg that kills bryopsis; Brightwell and Kent.

    My first try, Brightwell. I did all the level from 1500 and even push up the mg level to 2000 but nothing much happened. I've kept my mg level 2000 for about a month plus.

    Then I try Kent. Since my mg level is still high, I start to dose after my mg level drop to 1700 after several routine WC. When I dose Kent mg to 1800, the next few days I can see some changes to the bryopsis.

    The young bryopsis begin to wither and dye off. The old ones still going strong. I push up again to 1900. Still the same.

    The new young one grew and wither. Then I remembered through my research that by pulling old stubborn bryopsis helps to fight bryopsis battle.

    So I begin the frustrating part of pulling all the old one. When I did manage to pull off all the old bryopsis, stubborn as the name it start to grow back and dye off. I still maintain my Kent mg level to 1900. The I pull the strong and stubborn ones and the new grew and died.

    I hold my mg level for about a month and monitor the bryopsis till it's totally disappear. Then I slowly bring down my mg level slowly through normal routine WC.

    And yes, if you intend to push up the mg level, do it at 100ppm per day.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. Nothing to worry about. My block just did the 30min shut down.

    My fishes and corals were not affected by the 30min shut down. And only me affected by the shut down because I need to take the staircase to go up to 17th floor as I forgot about the shut down when I'm coming back home.

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  6. I've tried Rea Sea Salt, Red Sea Coral Pro and H2ocean. Right now I'm using Red Sea Salt coupled with CR.

    My personal opinion and observation between RSCP and H2ocean, I prefer RSCP better in term cost and amount of salt used to dissolve. I use less salt in RSCP than H2ocean.

    Dissolve rates, it about the same for both RSCP and H2ocean. Coral responded the same on both salts.

    Why I revert back to Red Sea Salt because I feel its a bit of a waste to use high Cal, Alk and Mag salt as I'm able to maintain the level that I want by using Red Sea Salt with CR.

    If I'm not using CR, then I might go for either RSCP or H2ocean but RSCP for me. By the way, mine is a sps dominant tank. This is just my personal opinion and observation.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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