RH8198

Hi bro, Hows your progress/update with this tank? Been awhile since heard from this thread, wondering hows everything going.

WAH! Impressive bro. Looks hardcore. Any pictures to show the outside of the cabinet? Like where this duct leads to?

Bro, now that you mention it. I have an air con unit just at the adjacent wall to where my tank will be placed. Do you think... they are able to use the same compressoor? So i can just get some air con ducting guy and link it to that "coil" in my tank right? Am I missing anything?

Mind if i ask, what is the reason behind using aquaroche over conventional live rock? Also any step needed to ensure BB grows on the aquaroche?

Bro, your "live rocks" look all set to start holding SPS already.. lol. Those are artificial live rocks right? Can share which brand/shop you got them from? Also, mind if I ask, where is your chiller going to be placed? Lastly, (sorry if I am bugging), what is dimension of this tank ?

Nice bro. Will be following your set up. Btw, which tank maker are you using for this set up?

The paralomis (porcupine crab) is fascinating!! It is like watching a hybrid crab version of Hulk + Predator. the only fish from your collection that I have ever seen is the Big Eye at Marine Life. Very beautiful fish. Do you think that fish is ok to be kept in a typical marine tank? As in usual lightings for a LPS/SPS tank and at 25-26 degree celcius? I know it is deep water fish, but after seeing it at Marine Life, I am thinking it might be ok to be kept with the typical marine tank setting. Not able to keep one now, but it is on my wish list in the future.

Just to clarify this point, I thought if the water parameter is suitable for SPS, it is definitely suitable for LPS? Or do you mean no more space for LPS in the main tank?

Sorry, i missed out some details. What if this cabinet housing the chiller only is an open one? As in, the front and the back are empty, so air can still ventilated.

May I know how "hot" is the hot air from the chiller? I never used a chiller before and feeling the chiller in the air con LFS aien't going to give me an accurate idea of the things to come. If my capacity is 82gallon (tank + sump inclusive), and i intend for it to be in an open cabinet (meaning the rear and the front are open, no doors), but the sides are shield by the cabinet wall. And I am intending to go for a 1/10HP arctica chiller, is it going to be very warm?

I have read of chillers becoming very hot. I have not ran one before but planning where to place it. Any one able to advise on this? If assuming one chiller is placed 2ft away from my sofa with a cabinet wall blocking/ in between, is the heat bearable?

How fast a flow rate would be consider fast? I looking at the typical pump would be about 2000l/hr and my tank is about 320litre, so about 6 x . Is this consider fast or slow? I have no preference on the flow rate actually as long as circulation is occurring decently. Am worried if too fast, the fish cannot take it or if too slow, circulation is not good.

Interesting, but able to explain the reason being this mod? Remember earlier patricklhc shared the diagram of the durso diagram. A bigger hole on top of end cap would cause higher water lvl and hence less noise. Does this mod do that? "making the bigger hole"?

If not too inconvenient for you, a video would be great for reference. Thanks!

Hi, Able to share which method did you use to fix the noise from the durso return pipe? So is it totally silent now or do you still heard slight noise? Thks!

Any bros here with both experience with both bean animal/herbie vs durso standpipe system here? Read that durso is also very quiet, but not as silent as bean animal. Any bro here able to enlighten on this point? For me, due to space constraint, external overflow is not an option.For now, I am willing to give up some precious DT real estate for an internal bean animal overflow but like to find out if a durso may be a more appropriate solution due to much less space required First priority, NO noise, second priority, almost no noise, third priority, Fail-safe control in restarting the system and fourth(last) priority, DT real estate..=)

Dream project bro! Nice! Thanks for sharing the joy with rest of us. By the way, what do you do with all these cheato? I am setting up a 3ft tank with refugium soon... I am thinking..... heh heh heh...

After searching all over the internet, notice most people do it at the back of the tank, against the wall, but that adds width. I can only afford 50mm width as I have space constraint (the tank is going to be along the entrance corridor of my house), but at the same time, want this Bean Animal overflow so badly. So the ideal solution, would be to have the bean animal overflow within my tank. I was thinking of placing all 3 pipes (plus 1 x return pipe), inside an overflow box at the rear right corner of the tank. Do you guys think that this is possible?

I suspect maybe your floor area for the return chamber not big enough but you need some reservoir volume in that chamber for the pump to function properly, as a result they propose a higher water level here. And because the water level in the chambers before the return chamber, has to be higher, your skimmer water level got jacked up as a result. Will take note on that. Thanks!

Wah bro, your return pump and the protein skimmer in the same sump chamber ah? I thought usually people will do a chamber that is fixed between 8-9" constant water level as requirement for most protein skimmer in the market and the last return chamber is separate as the water level will fluctuate. Anyway, water level high is ok, like what you did, with glass platform. If water level too low, then cannot use in-sump skimmer liao. lol

Yeah, I read about the bean animal overflow system last week but was too tired to understand the concept. But after your reply, I went back and read it again and it makes sense to me now. It is BRILLIANT!!!! One pipe at full siphon + one pipe which just allows water to trickle lightly down the pipe edges = Both pipes DEAD silent. This seems like what I am looking for!!!! But, will all local tank makers know how to set it up or do you have to instruct them step-by-step on what you want? CR and N30?

I am currently trying to design a 3'tank with sump and now working on the overflow system. The typical overflow box is a small square box at one rear corner of the main tank, and due to the flow of water into it, it can be abit noisy. Do you guys have any tips on how to reduce the noise from this part of the set-up? Also, will a smaller downpipe (resulting in water filling more of the pipe) help in reducing noise?

That is very very scary as every light set is $500-$700 for LED. Do you mean just changing the "set of LED bulbs" or really mean changing the entire light set?

That I am not sure as I never asked but I see T5 bulbs all over the places, so as long as the dimension of the tube fits, it should be ok. It is not patented technology.

ATI Sunpower dimmable also offers timers and dimmable controls, so that actually sounds very adequate. But I must say that thunder and cloud modes are very tempting cool feature. I thought day/night cycle already very good feature, until I realize LEDs can offer this kind of "weather mode". And must say the interface offered by Radion is very solid marketing, imagine playing god and changing the "weather" from my ipad. But are LED bulb replacement must more costly than to replace T5 bulbs? any figure to advise? andtsg, on 05 May 2015 - 07:56 AM, said: Yo bro. Led also have timer and dimmable controls plus all those fanciful mode like thunder, cloud, etc. Lifespan wise, led is 50000 hours or something like that. But led can lost up to 30% of their intensity in a year.