Full Hedge
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Posts posted by Full Hedge
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6 hours ago, Mike Stone said:
You should have a back up float switch for Tunze ATO, that doesn't activate too ??
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Yes but because of the precipitation, the optical sensor failed in the off position not the on position. The redundancy layers are only for ON position.
If the optical eye falsely senses that the water level is high or acceptable there is no redundancy for that.
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I run high alk n high calcium in my tank. Using tunze osmolator to top off evaporated water with freshwater mixed with sodium bicarbonate.
Just realised that the ato optical sensor failed due to precipitation. I cleaned the sensor n the ato started filling the tank with the alk solution. End up my tank now has alk of 15 dkh. Which means corals gonna be stressed and i need to clean the optical eye again.
Looking back didnt even pay enough attention to the water level, too busy staring at the acros. Automation has made me complacent.
Step forward is New target parameters are 450ppm calcium n alk 9dkh to reduce precipitation. Unplug ato while cleaning the sensor. N to quit staring at the ssc...
Sharing my experience here, hope you guys can learn from my mistake.
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Have u tested a fresh batch of newly made saltwater?
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U been adding calcium supplement? If never add, your test kit gone bad Or u didnt do you titration properly.
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Fts after cleaning the back pane
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22 minutes ago, atdayahwh said:
Sorry. Can you please explain more as I am not expert. Where is this calcium carbonate came from, salt mix? Should I leave it as it is ? Or how do I bring it down to decent level. Thanks
Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile appThe calcium carbonate comes from the dissolved stuff in the water
that comes from the salt mix
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The major constituent of alkalinity is bicarbonate ion, at reef aquarium pH(8.1-8.4) When a calcium ion bump into a bicarbonate ion, they form calcium bicarbonate which then kicks out the two hydrogen ions to form calcium carbonate.
when calcium or alk level is elevated you get a saturated solution and that increases the chance of a calcium ion bumping into a bicarbonate ion, hence precipitation of calcium carbonate.
You wanna bring it down because its a PAIN to scrap off the precipitation especially when it forms on stuff like pumps, hard to reach areas etc.
just do a series of 3x 30% water change.
also you would get such elevated level only if you were carelessly dosing calcium supplement. Important to test for calcium regularly (once a week)
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Typically the biggest issue with running high calcium is abiotic precipitation of calcium as calcium carbonate.
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Found a seller,
thank you.
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Hi looking for the above. If you have please pm me with price, photo n Address.
Thank you
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gracilaria curtissae.
I actually recommend you go for kessil.
While it can be pricey, kessil makes reliable products that are gonna last years. If you see the value in what kessil produces, its a reasonable price to pay.
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Control your feeding or improve your nutrient export.
why? Because its not abt silicates or whatever funky ass stuff. Its about phosphorous.
IFF your tank has consistent, absolutely 0 phosphates. U wont get algae growth. Thats it.
but if phosphate level fluxs, meaning a temporary spike before being exported. The algae still get the nutrients it needs to grow.
Working on one or both of my suggestion is da way.
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1 hour ago, littlekeong said:
Hi, ic. Im looking at taobao plant growing plant which is red and blue light bulb. Do u think that will work?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkShould be. I dont have the spectrum reading of the light. But if u see cree royal blue leds, good to go.
1 hour ago, littlekeong said:
Hi, thank you for the information.
Do u let your chaeto round or sink underneath the sump?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI dont grow cheato, growing a red macro algae. Mine is just shoved into the IOS sump compartment.
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1 hour ago, soggycookies said:
Best spectrum is 6500k for growing macroalgae, not that hard to find and very affordable as well with a wide variety for you to choose from. Like full hedge has mentioned, kessil’s grow lights are the premium choice but very pricey if you’re on a tight Budget. If you have the Budget, the best would prolly be kessil’s h380 flora light. Grows macroalgae real fast cause of the intense red and blue-only ideal spectrum. But if you hate the strong pink glow, just go for a cheaper alternative in warm white 6500k fixtures
Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile appBest spectrum has a 460nm and 660nm wavelength peak and nothing else.
All the other wavelengths produced is waste. You need multiple PC Bulbs to match kessil. N all that wasted electricity does add up.
Matching wavelength peak you provide+chlorophyll absorption peak= success
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Monitor your feeding, slowly cut down.
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Refugium has a side benefit that value adds to your system.
it soaks up CO2 and increases the pH of your system. Is a good natural pH buffer AND promotes calcification. You can grow macroalgae for tangs, offers a refuge for copepods/amphipods.
Even with high levels of predators, a refuge for the preys allow them to not go extinct in your system and multiply.
refugium is a proven nutrient export method with many side benefits.
bacteria media is an anecdotal nutrient export at best without the side benefits.
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Kessil H series is good choice. It has 660nm n 460nm wavelength peaks that really drives the photosynthesis in algae.
You can use any horticulture lights if you can find a cheaper alternative than kessil.
Using a simple powercompact is a poor choice because we are only interested in those wavelength peaks, dont need full spectrum to grow algae. Using horticulture leds is more energy efficient
Only recommend bacteria media if you have a bare bottom minimalist scape. Even then a few cubes/ a block of marinepure is enough.
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You dont need a big refugium, just good lighting. Bacteria media doesnt value add much if you already have rock n sand in display.
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All reserved
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I using salifert too.
You should be adding more magnesium
like a few times what you are adding now.
go with my water change recommendation, test again the add respectively.
easier to just do water change than to add alot of magnesium every day n test.
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7 minutes ago, soggycookies said:
Pardon me for my poor attempt to explain and simplify at the same time hahahah. I’m no chemistry expert but what I meant by “other ions like calcium” are exactly the other elements magnesium bonds with(sulfate, chloride ions) that are generally more abundant in NSW than calcium, particularly in the confines of a reef aquarium stacked with corals and other creatures that rely on calcium to grow.
What I meant by magnesium being unstable in his system is that that particular magnesium additive might not be at high enough quantities like you mentioned.
Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile appSo like calcium being precipitated out as calcium carbonate?
With Magnesium you should not be seeing any ‘practical’ depletion due to precipitation as carbonate ion.
Magnesium wont precpitate out as magnesium sulfate or chloride in a reef tank.
Solubility product of magnesium chloride is very much higher than that of magnesium carbonate. Thats also why we dose Mg chloride not Mg carbonate.
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If you have been adding Mg supplements at such levels. I suspect is the test kit.
To remedy your situation in short n long term
I recommend
Do 3x 30% water change with a salt mix preferably one with elevated kh n mag levels like red sea coral pro.
Your phosphate level is high. You need a nutrient export method, consider gfo.
Your calcium depletion should be low, can just get something like red sea foundation elements liquid. Easy to use.
Find out why your magensium levels are low, either your test kit is giving you a false low reading or you havent been adding enough magnesium supplement.
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2 hours ago, soggycookies said:
Magnesium as an element doesn’t stay at stable levels if it’s bonding quickly with other ions like calcium in the water. If your magnesium is depleted very quickly it could be because of your constantly high calcium levels
Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile appMagnesium n calcium bonding? How? Magnesium n calcium ions are both positively charged... only way i can think of is with some chelating agent.
Magnesium actually stays pretty stable because it is a major element. In terms of relative weight magnesium is only about 3x more but there are about 5 times as much magnesium ions as calcium ions.
As for dosing magnesium theres only two common means. Magnesium sulfate n magnesium chloride. You need to dose alot, over time to push up magnesium levels. If you have a 100L tank. To raise Mg levels from 1000 PPM to 1400PPM u need to add 160g of MgCl2. About 40g of magnesium ions.
How to reduce dkh?
in General Reefkeeping_
Posted
Hydrochloric acid.
Slowly drip dilute HCl over the course of abt a day. Or do 3x 30% water change with low alk salt every 3-4 hours.
Tbh i quite skeptical of your results. If i got such high reading first thing i do is get a new test kit. Maybe the pH indicator in the test kit expired or smth.