kareen
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Posts posted by kareen
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Kareen, are you able to perform a large water change for now?
Just to see how much nitrate can be lowered.
secondly, have you tried using the AZ NO3 ? Heard fellow reefers trying, having gd effect.
That's the method I am doing now. I have tried AZ NO3 too with similar effect as using sugar method
BTW, this is a picture of the dsb I have in mind..... I wonder anyone tried it before...
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I am using Deltec NFP501 for my RSM and I never change my water for the past 3 months only top up the water only. So far so good, NO3 max 10 ppm when I am doing my weekly test sometime 5 ppm. My denitrator is carbon based, I am using dosing pump to inject diluted vodka 2ml x 4 times/day. So far this is the best investment I have compared to using AZNO3. Before denitrator my tank No3 often shoot beyond the chart (>80 ppm). It makes my life easier now.
BTW, sugar is carbon as well....
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Adding a little of sugar to your tank will lower the nitrate.... I have done that and it works for that purpose.... however, I stopped that 'cos I remembered some corals do not respond well... I remembered the nitrate is dropping fast and at the same time, I notice my macro algae dieing... and so started removing them from refugium.... and then certain corals (can't remembered now) do not open well.... I have read that doing this over the long period, only 1 type of bacteria left dominating in tank... not a good thing. So, my conclusion is that this can be done on a short term basis to bring it to a lower level nitrate only... [a word of caution... this method may crash your tank when there is insufficient oxygen due to the rapid bacteria growth. Monitor closely when doing it]
Adding plants... I feel is that somehow due to the amount of space given, it could not keep up with the level nitrate produced in our tank.... Maybe others have succeed but not for my case.
I have been toying with an idea after reading about Ah lim posting here...
My idea is to have a COVERED bucket of dsb placed in sump with probably 2 holes drilled at the side. This is to allow tank water to enter this container from the side. I think debris will have less chance of settling when water is entered from the side and at the same time, doing the lowing of the nitrate, passively for us. I think if there is any nitratification going on in the dsb bucket, nitrate will be reduced without any additional cost of running pumps...
Will this work? Appreciate greatly inputs or experiences encountered by reefers...
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hm... not so effectively for your case then.... BTW, did u covered the pail with lid that time u deploy this?
PS: What is your current method of curing nitrate?
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Thanks for the clarify.... Is it important to cover the pail with lid? Also, do u mind to tell me how much this has bring ur nitrate down.... Many thanks
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"both inlet are level, above the RDSB."
I thought inlet is at the side of pail while the outlet is at the pail cover.... Can u clarify on this? Thanks
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From th picture,
we can see that the inlet is smaller than the outlet.
both inlet are level, above the RDSB.
However, do note that there must be enough flow so that dentris would not stay there and rot.
Hmmm, I think i use a 1500litre/hr pump for flow. a bit forgetful.
By the way, this will take roughly 1 month for it to kick in. Any grade of sand will do. I used beach sand grade, nv use coral chips, haha.
It quite popular in reef central, google," RSDB+reef central "
Thanks for sharing.... I'm quite excited about this... the startup cost and running is low..... except how to make it more presentable looking....
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somemore ideas...
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Why not just try a sulfer denitrator and solve the nitrate problems.. I like to feed like crazy and my nitrate is less that 5 now. If you follow my past posting, I had an issue with Nitrate. I've seen past 100ppm. Everyday it increases by 1-2ppm.. monthly or even weekly water change here will not help if you do the calculation. I would require extra large water change constantly which is not good for the biological stability of the tank. Now with a denitrator, its been controlled... nuff said. Poisoning? not possible unless due to human neglect/lazyness. Monitoring of the drip is the key.
Instead of getting all these new theories why may or may not work. Even if it works 100%, where's the product? Not here yet..
You could DIY one but dun think its that easy.. might not even work well so far from all I've seen.
Besides, what's stated above IS probably what a denitrator (sulphur or feed kind) would contain and do.
Yes DSB and live rocks will control nitrate.. thats how nature does it, don't it? Making use of bacterias to break down... of course you must have as mch live rocks as possible and both LR and DSB must be very matured with lots of live and bacterial.
yeah... I know but this is going to be cheap.... Here's a picture from one of the pages... Anyway, I'm still researching on the topics. Hope to hear more comments
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I do have cheato, mangroove, etc... macro algae grow well too... My nitrate is high 'cos I have quite a bit of sunnies and very often when I'm busy, I'll simply flood my tank with coral food.... All corals in my tank are softies and LPS only. They look pretty okay to me and some are propagating in my tank even with nitrate at this level...
I am reading the thread u provide.... Is there any quick tip or advise from you?
1) how u construct the DBS. Eg. sand grade and thickness.
2) determine the proper flowrate thru' it. maybe quote your case
3) Is the water pump into the lowest layer of DBS from inlet and the outlet pipe is like an opening to let the water out?
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about 80ppm
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If I recall, sulphate could be kept low with the practice of regular water change. Sulphate wouldn't be that bad yet as there is little info abt the impact of sulphate in reef tank.
Ya can try a remote DSB, 1 coral life pail with sand, 12-14 inch sand bed.
But not nice-looking. haha.
u mean the remote DSB is capable of keeping the tank nitrate low? Any references of thread? ThanksBTW, any reefers with de-nitrator story....
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The Sulfur Denitrator seems promising to reduce large amount of nitrate but I'm not too sure about the SO4 impact though....
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Hi!
What are the method deploy to keep nitrate low? [apart from the low feeding, water change and stronger skimmer...] I have been reading a little on this area and found
DIY Sulfur Denitrator
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...mp;pagenumber=1
DIY canister-diy-denitrator
http://www.indodragon.com/forum/f4/eheim-c...enitrator-3045/
Appreciate if any reefers who have the experiences and share the thoughts....
some photos which I saved from the above threads..
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"cooking" = not boiling the live rock... >.<
Rock will not turn dead...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=437342
Thanks for enlightening... haha...
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Hi.... you have choosen quite a difficult species of coral for fragging..... Sea fans are known to be difficult to strive well in our normal equip tank due to its non photosynthesis nature... something like the sunnies which require us to feed them but more difficult in sea fans case 'cos their "mouth" are fairly small and hence take plankton and zooplankton in micro sizes. Nevertheless, since you have fragged them, here are some recommendation...
1) place those frags in a high flow area in a dimly lighted area to prevent algae growth on their body. If possible, do not on light.
2) high frequency of dosing coral food are recommended in dripping sense....
Do some DIY of IV style drip system in your fragging tank to ensure long hour of food available to them will ensure your higher success rate. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress....
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just put multiple of glass bottle to trap pest while recycling the tank is good enough.... cooking, drying the liverock kill all good or bad thing.... equal dead rock.
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Erm... too complicated for me. I know that most of these filter media are available locally. Thanks... what caught my eyes is a paragraph....
The invention is based on polymer-entrapment of a denitrifying combination of bacteria together with a suitable carbon source which is slowly degraded by a combination of two different bacteria. The bacteria comprise of a combination of denitrifying and fermentative bacteria which, when entrapped in a suitable polymer and in the presence of an organic carbon source, are capable of reducing nitrate to nitrogen gas without intermediate accumulation of toxic metabolites (e.g. nitrite).
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Thanks for the clarification, Bro Kareen! And yes, 600l/hr is indeed too small to drive this skimmer. Tried and tested, as stated in my first post. It states there as being a cataract skimmer... no clue how it works.
Examine how the air is draw into the skimmer body.... u will know whether it is a venturi or needlewheel concept of skimming. Cataract is just a brand name. A needlewheel skimmer will not be able to introduces any bubble if no air is drawed into the pump. The reason I mention here is because the skimmer did not come with pump so there may be a possibility that it is a needlewheel skimmer. If it is a needlewheel then giving a 5000l/hr pump will not work too.... From your dialog here, likely this is a venturi skimmer and so giving a stronger pump will work for you liao....
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Stumble upon this thread in another forum....
http://www.sareefkeeping.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10953
Is there such a product in the market yet?
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Well, I have not used that skimmer before... but here's what I'll do....
Examine how the air bubble is introduce in your skimmer design. If skimmer design in a way that air bubble is introduce after the pump then it is a venturi. If no air bubble introduction in skimmer design, it is a needlewheel.
If venturi, then the cause is highly due to insufficient pump power.
If needlewheel, make sure there is air introduction is made in the pump....
PS: BTW, 600l/hr pump is kind of small to drive any decent skimmer IMHO.
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[i'll feel pain pain when such thing happen to my tank not to mention about the mess created] Pls help.... fellow reefers....
PS: the radioactive birdnest is really very luminious kind.... very nice.
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Hi Bro,
Yes, I did come up with a plan to reconfigure the stuff if my next 2 months' electricity bill still do not go down. I have some constraints ...
7W air pump is the stock air-pump supplied (variable speed) for the airstone driven protein skimmer. Initially I thought, wow, so big arhhhh ... better get a smaller one to replace, then later realised why they supplied one this huge ... as the airstone age, and progressively gets "stuck", I could turn up the power to continue the skimming action at the last level of efficiency ... of course, after 2 months, the wooden airstone needs to be changed. So far quite happy with the supplied skimmer. So I will keep this piece of equipment running.
7W ACCELA pumps, 2 of them ... I am using one as "return pump" to return the water from the filter box section to the display area. The other one, I am using it to drive the chiller water cycle (the returned chilled water is into a compartment filled with coral chips, so got the additional benefit of higher surface area for bio filteration, which I will lose this additional bio filteration capacity if I pipe the water back into the display area - as below).
Then, I have a small 4W powerhead serving as a small "return pump" that drives the water through an UV unit, then back into the display area.
So, the only thing I can cut out is the 4W powerhead ... by connecting the UV unit to the chiller water cycle, then water flow back into the display area. But to do that, I need to raise the chiller up higher, as I am experiencing high head loss due to the placement of the chiller on the floor. Then there is the cutting of tubes, risk of saltwater flooding the floor while reconfiguring the tubes etc. etc. Which is why I rather run the 4W powerhead then to itchy hand go and modify everything again.
I believe I have narrowed down the 2 highest impact items: Resun Chiller (darn Made-in-China stuff, not energy efficient) and the 150W MH light. Currently trying to cut the run time of these 2 items down to as low as possible, while still keeping the corals and fishes happy.
BTW, sidetrack a bit, today I saw something very interesting ... my clownfish starts to "host" the jewel coral, and when I feed prawn cubes to the bigger fishes, this clownfish will snatch the prawn cube and place it on top of the jewel coral (right in the center) ... as though it is "feeding" the jewel like feeding an anemone. When I took the prawn cube away, and continuing feeding ... again, the clownfish did the whole routine again. This goes on for 4 times.
Ahhh ... very cute. These are the magical Kodak moments that prompt people to continue with this money draining hobby ehhh? Amount of time and money spend to upkeep a marine tank, no joke.
oic... then no choice... initially I thought the ACCELA is a wavemaker in tank which could use a tunze nano or Hydor which is lower watt rating....
Tall Reef Tank
in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
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" beside my Bed " => not really a good idea when equipment start piling up especially the unsighty, smelly skimmer output.
Also, deeper tank require high power lighting ==> heat generated either from light or chiller... Seriously, a bad location.