kareen
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Posts posted by kareen
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if u have seen a mantis before, you will not get confused with amphipods.... look at the powerful forearm of mantis...
Mantis
http://www.imagequest3d.com/pages/current/.../stomatopod.htm
http://www.scuba-equipment-usa.com/marine/...cyallarus).html
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Hi guys,
In view of the recent increases in electricity charges (again!), would like to survey fellow reefers on how much electricity bill they pay each month for keeping of their marine tank. Not talking about your total household bill, but the estimated portion belonging to the marine tank's upkeep. Also please indicate the size of your tank and what equipments inside, and running hours.
Let me start:
After I started my tank, I noticed a S$100 increase in my monthly electricity bill. And it is a very small nano tank, which causes me to wonder why is it consuming so much electricity. Maybe more experienced bros out there can suggest ways to save electricity in this hobby.
MH light 150W - initially run for 7 hours a day, now reduced to 4 hours a day
LED blue nite-lights around 4W - initially run for 9 hours, now reduced to 6 hours a day
Chiller Resun CL-280W - initially set at 25 deg C, now set at 27 deg C
One air pump around 7W - run 24/7
2 ACCELA powerheads around 7W each - run 24/7
1 small powerhead around 4W - run 24/7
1 UV around 9W - run 24/7
That's about it, not such a big electrical load, but still the PUB bill shoots up like crazy. Our household usage pattern and habits remain the same.
But seriously speaking ... just paying the PUB bill for 1 year, almost the cost of my whole equipment setup. This is not counting the dosing chemicals, rowaphos, carbon, supplements etc. My tank is only a 28 gallon (100L) JBJ HQI.
Wow, how does other bros who keep HUGE marine tank sustain their hobby? What kind of money do you spend per month on average, just for upkeep?
If I were you, I will look at how to reduce the 2 ACCELA powerheads 7W each
Also, I see that your air pump should be a huge one, a rating of 7W for your tank size.... I think a saving of a minimum 5W can be achieve.... -
Bro, can I ask you one thing ... when you set your chiller temp at 27C, what is the temp of the water inside of the main display area?
Becoz of the way that I setup my feed and return of the chiller water, my display area is always 1 deg C higher than the temp sensor indicated on the chiller, Thus, when I want to maintain 27C inside the display area where all the livestocks are, I need to set the chiller at 26 deg C.
I tried to set the chiller at 27C before and the display area goes up to 28 to 28.5 deg C and lots of corals decided not to open up. Once I get the temp inside the display area down to 27C, the corals are happy again.
Sugguest to put just one cheapo thermometer inside for a better reading of temperature. Also, when adjusting chiller temperature, do it slowly like 0.1 or 0.2 temperature change every day only. The final desired temperature is reached in weeks time so that corals can adapt to the new temperature. Also, make sure the new temperature is less than 30C.
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My sincere advise is not too add anymore fish 'cos marine fish unlike the freshwater, each need some private space [each have their hiding spot] .... U can add more and probably still okay in short term but sooner or later u realise that u can't add more 'cos the newcomer can't survive... which is the situation u face. Your tank probably can take in one or two more dwarf angle, but your sequence of adding the fish is not the "wise one" and hence facing the situation sooner than expected. The thumb of rule is to add the smaller fish first like the dwarf angel in your case and then the bigger brother, angel and tangs.
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pump sold. Thread closed.
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U r welcome
All available chaeto collected. Thread closed. -
wrong section... should be in the sales area not general reefkeeping
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Hi
u mention putting mirror, will the existing fishes lose interest in the mirror trick after some time and continue to harass the new comer ?
It will take away some attention to give the newcomer some space... yes, they will lose interest after sometime but by then the newcomer should have get used to your tank and survival rate should be higher as long as its get his shares of food during feeding.... BTW, u have quite a bit of big size fish in your tank already.... are your tank capable of so many fish in just a 3ft?
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Thanks for the reminder. But I hardly ever dose iodine. Maybe once a month if I happened to remember that I didn't dose iodine for some time liao.
Also, the skirts have been like that for quite a while. These are the ones at the high light and high flow areas, at the top of my rock scape.
ok... then
BTW, very nice with lots of jems.... -
Check out these crazy skirts
Have u been adding any additives? Iodine? Keep an watchful eye... may be an early warning sign IMHO....
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dwarf angle are more delicate than the usual.... your act of quarantine stress them further... Also, if your tank is full of fish already, new comer tend to get bully and do not get their fair shares of food.... if you really like dwarf angle, your chances is higher when bought from reefer who kept it for sometime and maybe couple with the mirror trick to fool the rest of the fish in your tank.....
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All chaeto reserved...
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my RIP copperband used to hunt them....
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If I'm not wrong, they are the amipods, the bigger brother of copepods. Well, I don't know whether they eat zoas or not... but I also have plenty in my tank. Here's some reading
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those interest pls pm me your contact to arrange for collection TODAY.
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Pump reserved.
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Alright... to be fair for all.... my final price : $85.
Interest then pm to arrange collection either at near Tiong Bahru MRT (after work) or Science Park (near AYE during office hour)
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A plastic full of it. Collection will be at Science Park (near AYE) tomorrow.
Please indicate your interest here and arrange collection time during office hour.
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from AquaBee website... current, hope this answer your question. BTW, the pump is used to drive a venturi skimmer which has been taken off due to leak and replacement skimmer comes with pump. Hence selling this off.
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$90 about a year plus old.
40Watt, 3000l/hr, 2.4m height max.
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my make shift breeding station
cannot get my hands on BBS so i bought BS eggs.
crossing my fingers now
I think the picture BBS station design not so good... this may cause... either longer hatching time or higher percentage of egg not hatching.....
Basic idea is to keep the BBS egg in aeration mode and take care not to have too small bubble. Look here for some of idea about the BBS hatching station.
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Glad that u've learned something....
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very nice.... any about the coral reef display?
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Well, since you say that, highly that is the start of the chain reaction.... if you remove the sponges in time, then probably no serious damage.... I know 'cos I have tried sponges before.... Can you imagine a small piece of sponge's toxic, even the volume of water is 4ft tank plus 3ft sump couldn't take it? I remove it after 2-3 days in tank when I observe funny behavior from other corals...
If you want to try out sponges, go for those photosynthesis type like the so called elephant ear sponges and not those colourful ones. The colourful ones are non photsynthesis type and required matured tank to strive.... even so, it is kind of hard also 'cos most sponges shipped poorly... mainly due to air trapped within the sponges will cause it to die off..
Some enquires
in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
Posted
U got to know what are the "thing" tested in a all in one strip testkit.... Typically the all in one test kit do not include important parameter of a saltwater... one example is calcium. I think all-in-one teststrip may be at the begining when you recycle the tank 'cos it has indication of NH4, NO2, NO3, KH, GH, PH...