kareen
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Posts posted by kareen
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all you need remove just PO4 of 1ppm is 39mg for the pail of water.
.... oh my god and I have added 5g of FeSO4 already... 
unsed FeSO4 is consumed to flocgulate the rest of suspended organics...er... do u mean all FeSO4 will be used up to bind with something and so by the time I pump back no more FeSO4?
Is the suspended organics good or bad one?
In simpler words, is okay to overdose a bit to remove some extra suspended organics? BTW, is suspended organics equal to DO, dissolved organics we refer about skimmate?
After pumping 4 * 80litres in two days, I notice skimmer cup is filling about 1 quater cup worth of watering, urine colour skimate in 1 day... It takes about 3 days to reach the volume before... The 5th pail is already to pump back but I hold on to it this morning...
Lime is use as a combination with Fe salt to enhance the process of water treatment of waste water with O2. The end product is better efficiency/quality of treated water.What is the amount of kalkwasser is needed with FeSO4?
How to mix them?
Do we take the clear solution from kalkwasser and dose like a drip as in the usual reef or just dump everything in?
Brown stuff flocgulate of Fe ions with presents of O2. So it does not means Fe3(PO4)2.
BTW, just sharing what I found on the FeSO4....
http://www.ecofluid.com/process.cfm
Part of the essay....
For example, removal of phosphorus by FeSO4 is given as by the two following reactions:
Phosphorus Precipitation
3FeSO4 + 2PO4-3 ---------> Fe3 (PO4)2 + 3SO4-2
Alkalinity Reduction and Hydroxide Precipitation
Fe+++ + 3HCO-3 -----------> Fe(OH)3
According to the above two reactions, removal of 2 mg/l of PO4-3, would theoretically produce 6 mg/l of additional sludge. In actual practice, a value of 5 mg/l of sludge per mg/l of PO4-3 removed provides a conservative design value. For an influent wastewater having 240 mg/l of incoming BOD and a sludge yield of 0.6 lbs TSS/lb BOD removal, and the use of FeSO4 to remove 2 mg/l of PO4-3, the total increase in sludge production would be about 7%.
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A search on this forum will point to you some bad things that will happen if dosing the red slime remover product....
A better way is to find the roots and I think your case is likely low flow and high nutrients couple with good lightings... Think how to solve that will help in long run. For me, a little addition of rowaphos solve my situation with time....
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Chk to ensure that your water parameters are in tact to eliminate one factor that may cause the anemone's unhappiness...
During initial intro to tank, choose the best facing in term of flow/lighting/etc and then place the anemone at that location with some liverocks. Slowly the anemone will attach to a piece of rock and then do some rescaping forming a cavelike....
Do take note not to alter the facing 'cos it will cause the anemone to move.
Ur anemone is clearly unhappy but hard to say due to what.... Now if the anemone is already sticking to rock then simply take the rock where the anemone stick to and find a good facing and do the above....
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if u find hard to boost Ca, likely Mg not enough also....
Also, how do u place the tonga rock that looks like a bridge? Beware that if not secure might fall off when fish/snail/crabs may topple them and without sand to cushion may break the glass.....
I notice there is a fair bit of brown sediment at the bottom....
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Hi Kareen;
Guess you are a more discipline person than I am. Sometime I let it sit for 2 days as cannot get time to clear the mess I create.
Aeration will accelerate the browning of water, that I notice. But none the less will react too. If you fells like it, another good chemical to add as a reagent for the process is none other than Kalkwasser. co-dose the two will be a perfect combination and remove solid mess out of the water. This I read must have present of plentiful of O2, otherwise just waste away... Not too sure of just FeSO4 alone.
1g/20l gives you 50ppm so it seems like too much consider you dun know the PO4. It is alright if you do out of tank, as The Fe really like the white wool and stick to it like magnet.
Hello Simon,
I'm in my 4 * 20 litres of FeSO4 treatment.... I treat it externally and find the procedure very fast... now I need only about 5minutes to complete. I do 2 pail a day, one in the morning before work and another after work.... So far, everything looks pretty normal.
my PO4 should not be low 'cos I feed quite a bit of frozen and dried cylopeeze to my sunnies twice daily....Aeration will accelerate the browning of water, that I notice. But none the less will react too. If you fells like it, another good chemical to add as a reagent for the process is none other than Kalkwasser. co-dose the two will be a perfect combination and remove solid mess out of the water. This I read must have present of plentiful of O2, otherwise just waste away... Not too sure of just FeSO4 alone.So, what does this extra addition of limewater remove? Will adding an airstone provide the required O2? Me curious as a cat....
1g/20l gives you 50ppm50ppm of what?
uh? 1 gm per 20 litres too much? 7G will roughly give 26litres....
BTW, can I view like as long as there is brown stuffs forming in water equal PO4 presents?
Appreciate inputs...
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U may consider doing some copper treatment to kill the isopods.... but make sure copper do not get in liverock, livesand and corals.....
PS: is the situation serious?
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Maybe remove the nudi using hand first and see whether situation is under control or not.... I don't think leopard wrasse will eat nudi if sixlines don't... afterall they are under the wrasse species..
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This is from a website that I read:
Acrylic aquariums have a number of advantages over glass:
Special seams make them less likely to leak. (Very important to me. Last leak on my glass sump cost me my whole carpeted area in the living room, cost much more than a acrylic sump).
They are stronger and more flexible than glass making them more likely to withstand earthquakes and children. (Impt - strength needed to prevent future breaks/cracks)
Scratches can be removed or lightened. (Not too sure of this)
They can be designed into multiple shapes and have rounded corners. (Not impt to me)
They are more insulated, requiring less energy to maintain temperatures. (Impt - helps to reduce chiller bills)
They are lighter making them easier to transport and set up. (Impt - only me and my wife at home and she does not have the strength to help me move things)
They are clearer than glass. (Yes but not impt to me)
Many have a lifetime guarantee. (Not in my case)
Thank you for the info
. It is very true especially for a decent return requirement that is less than 30watts is hard to get.... Can take a pic of the tap so in future when my sump give way, I can consider the tap design? 
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Underfeeding is better then overfeeding for someone who is not familar.... Water quality is the main key to look out to prevent any chain reaction if u know what I mean....
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wah... amitaba.... think of the good thing that others wrasses may not offer... just forget about other wrasses lor.... they are okay with no other wrasses only mah.
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what make you think that aryclic stands a better chance than glass? IMO, the chances of it cracking again is there 'cos every hole we drill on the panel is a weak link that will deter further due to aging.... unless leaving untouch... The best way is not having any hole on sump wall for pumps 'cos pump do need some clean up every now and then.... or there is a deteching mechanism so that no force is required to pull the pump apart from the pipe.....
Every mistake is a lesson learn.....
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Hello... I did a pail of FeSO4 treatment over the weekend externally as per Simon, nakazoru, initial thread treatment.... not so difficult lah...
What I did is just basically preparing a pail of new saltwater to exchange with the tank water and add some FeSO4 in the pail with a overhead filter ON for a whole night. This morning I have pumped the treated tank water into the tank and siphon another pail for the same treatment again.... Whole process took about 10 to 15minutes to complete... quite easy.
There is a little question.... the way I do it may have omit the aeration process, will it affect the PO4 absorption rate?
I add about a little under 1 gram of FeSO4 to a 20litres pail. Is this too little or too much? Appreciate some feedbacks...
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Bulb colour (the K, kelvin we refer here) will drift over time. Depending on brand, some drift faster and some slower... so some reefers will just change their bulbs after certain period of usage.
Why the important of K? Well, it is that certain range of K that is of most use to the corals we keep. Undesirable algae has larger range and when corals or plants we keep do not grow, the algae do instead.
Life span of bulb is generally observing the intensity or drift of colour... it depend on brand and usage. Eg. same brand but different hours of ON hours also differs.
I don't think any special ballast, as long as the ballast is rated to light up the required bulb rating. Generally speaking a higher rated ballast can light up a lower rated bulb but may not spell good for the bulb. The right size is ones seek.
Having extra bulb is nice apart from the electrical bills. If light is sufficient why the extra which may contribute to heating to the system.... Be the judge yourself to add or not from the corals health...
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Oh ya.. if sump capacity is of concern to hold the volume of water that is going down when the return is off.... a little cal on volume should give you the confident. Eg.
length * breadth * height ( take the variable height duing ON/OFF return) then use the same concept to the sump. I have about another bucket of water (25litres) of allowance into the sump even after the return is off.....
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Fern calpulera will also go asexual quite easily too....
all the calpulera family lor.... I think some reefers post... those single cells one will go asexual. But I think the main thing is that to know how to prevent them to go asexual... like put those caplulera near wavemaker to lower the flow and prevent them to go asexual.... etc.
BTW, I think cheoto grow slower than grape calpulera leh.... the little clump in my sump is still a little clump with not much growth shown.... maybe cannot compete with the grape...
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I have never use TM KH test kit before.... but the normal KH test kit I used is basically 1 drop per one degree hardness on a 5ml container.
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hi guys
just got an arctica commercial chiller 1.5hp
i set it to 28 degrees, the chiller kicks in at ard 28.4, run for hardly 5 min, cools teh water to 27.4 deg and then stops.
and now i on my lights, MH, situation worse, it runs for less than 5min, then water gets heated by MH lights, then kicks in again, gosh its damm frequent
anyone has any advice??
my chiller input pump is located at the first compartment of the sump, and the chiller return is at the last compartment of the sump. shoudl be correct, cos this is teh way i placed my previous chiller
help!!
using an elephant (1.5hp) to kill a little ant ( 28C).... that's why....
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If arcylic is more expensive than glass, then personally I think using arcylic is kind of waste 'cos sump material can be anything like plastic.... Arcylic is better than glass in the sense that u get to view the true colour of corals....
Well, my sump glass is just the usual 6mm thickness.... and so far still alright... I think part of the reason is that I have a little more space at one side to take things in and out of sump without the bumping and dropping the equipments down on the glass.... (the slant design)
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Nice..... I think whatever u do seems to be able to satisfy them.... give it more TIME and maintain the same quality that make them happy...
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Also I will like to add that without rinsing the frozen mysis or brine shrimp cube, u can add a little less of "whatever" 'cos these frozen cubes normally have added vitamins.... The ingredient list are on the packaging....
The key thing is that one must know how to balance the water quality and feeding..... with "technology" or filteration....
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Well, so far this is what I found the most meaningful and yet unknown to me before....
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-11/rhf/index.php
Copied from part of the article...
For example, the salinity of seawater, whether measured with a hydrometer, a refractometer or a conductivity meter, is dominated by these four ions. Deviations in the concentration of any other ion, even if significant for other reasons, will not significantly alter such measurements. For example, whether the calcium is 300 ppm or 500 ppm will not be noticeable in a typical salinity determination. That difference represents only a 0.6% change in the total weight of salts present, changing the salinity from 35 ppt to 34.8 ppt. Likewise, whether the alkalinity is 5 meq/L (14 dKH) or 2 meq/L (5.6 dKH), the change in salinity is only about 0.5%.
Another important implication of the high concentration of these other ions is that they move around only very slowly when perturbed by additives and foods. For example, adding calcium chloride boosts chloride more than it does calcium, but since there is already a background of 19,000 ppm of chloride, such additions do not rapidly disturb the relative ratios of the various ions in seawater.
A small portion of both sodium and potassium (about 5%) exists as ion pairs with sulfate, forming NaSO4- and KSO4-. This type of ion pair is best viewed as a temporary association between the two ions and may last for only a very small fraction of a second before the ions move apart. Nevertheless, this type of association can have important implications for the behavior of these ions. Ions forming such pairs actually "touch" each other. That is, most or all of the hydrating water molecules that are in between them have been temporarily removed. This removal of the intervening water molecules is the primary distinction between ion pairs and ions that are simply near each other.
As mentioned above, sulfate forms ionic interactions with most positively charged species in seawater. In fact, more than half of it is in the form of an ion pair, with NaSO4- and MgSO4 dominating. Sulfate is not otherwise especially remarkable as a seawater component since it is present at a fairly high concentration that does not vary much with location or depth. However, if the oxygen level drops substantially, it can serve as an electron acceptor (oxygen source) for microorganisms degrading organic materials. That process forms the toxic gas, hydrogen sulfide. The following chemical reaction describes what happens in that process:
Organic (typical) + sulfate à carbon dioxide + bicarbonate + hydrogen sulfide + ammonia + water + phosphate
While the normal process in the presence of oxygen is:
Organic (typical) + oxygen à carbon dioxide + nitrate + water + phosphate
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hey guys,
a little update on my tank. i have recently changed the substrate, added more rocks, and rescaped the whole tank. i haven't added any feso4 for the past few days. parameters are looking good. feeding very very little to prevent any spikes. so far things are going well.
i planning to try this tomorrow:
1. switch off my return pump
2. dose feso4 into sump
3. circulate the water in sump with a powerhead for 10 min
4. filter out the brown stuff with a cannister filter for 1 hour
4. switch on my return again
what do you guys think? will prolly do this in around noon. i will test the phospate level before and after.
A better proposal.... there may be a few things to note.... mainly I can think of off hand is the macro algae, bioballs and sand if there is in your sump....
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I have not been changing water for more than 2 yrs, LOL. Corals all still striving.
Thanks for your advise, now I know this is normal.
Now back to the PO4, it is getting more interesting.
Kareen, any advise on PO4?
yeah...getting interesting with no much partipation from others.... me now reading until my eyes goes
... not much progress... after all chemistry isn't my rice bowl.... -
Why arcylic if it is going to be more expensive? Afterall it is going to be just a sump....
Well, even using two motors where one as feeding while the other bubbling, at ground 0 also mean more water is going into the chamber with less loss... unless APF 600 skimmer feeding pump is with an elbow design....
k... just airing my view only....
water change
in General Reefkeeping_
Posted
If yours is only Fish only, water change may be keep to a minimum.
Else, keep as little fish as possible and greedy fish like tangs is definite no, should prolong the water change.
The rule here is that if the water is clean Eg. nitrate is 0, phoshate is 0 and silicate is 0, then with proper dosing of additives and ensuring that the ionics are balance, why the change water? The problem commonly face is that we are not experts in chemistry and additives are chemicals that change from one state to another... Very often creating minor ionics imbalance and with regular water change, things are in tact....