AlexCWSoo

It is normal for chiller to kicks in and out at 2 deg C temperature difference. But for a tank to have 2 Deg C difference in 15min is rare. check that the out put of the chiller is not recirculated to the input (shorted) The proper flow rate for chiller is 5 Deg Delta between the input and output of the chiller.

Don't need a mutitester to test for stray voltage lah. Just use a test pen. If the test pen lighted up even very slightly, confirm stray current in the tank. Just ground it with any wire and you are fine. Even if you cannot fine any stray voltage, please ground the tank. As you will never know 1 day the leak is so strong that someone will get into some accident.

OK.. will go rock hunting tommorrow. Anybody saw LR of 10KG each?

Taking the risk...cannot tahan oready. But with much of the matured rock, should not have problem lah.

Tested out the light again. Hmmmm?? looks like it should work

Rescaped the tank and added in the balance salt from the bucket. Still too low 1.023, will get some more salt tomorrow. How do you guys like the scaping? I feel that I will need a lot more rock, do you agree?

After 1 day of filteration the filter is completely block. Can see water is above the neck. Hopes that I don't have to wash this everyday.

As the tank is inside the office. Feel free to drop by any time (after the completion). We always have walk in customer.

Cabinet? may be..partition or fiber glass profiled decorative wall or may be colour acrylic sheet...hmmmm...don't know yet. will settle the tank then move on to the cabinet or partition things.

Another view from front of the tank

The tunze compartment. Side view of tank

Yah...kind of understand the NSW things. But looking at quite a few LFS which use sea water inspire me to give it a try. Anywhere still have to top up with tap water and use 3/4 pail of Tropic Marine salt. Here is how the tank look after spending the whole afternoon to hunt down LR. Its just 2 hours of running. Feel that the 10 micron filter and the red dragon is doing it jobs. Will do scaping tomorrow.

Thats the colour of our see water. All natural make in Singapore ..hehe

There are here.

Where to collect?

1 truck lot together with the sump will get me this far.

Familiar colour? Yah..Bedok water at 4:00am

Here is a photo taken with same camera setting for a feel of the light. No Ideal if it is bright enought or not. Will have to wait for some rock in the tank to conclude. But it sure looks good. The white stuff in the photo are some acrylic bits left over during my cutting in the tank.

The side view. Copper plate below and acrylic block above. The red colour ugly stuff is liquid gasket. will definately have to improve on that in the final product.

Here is a view of the water inlet/outlet

Here is the acrylic block with grove (water channel). The track is right on top of the LED juntion. This side is to be in contact with the copper plate. The round grove in the picture is for the lens mounting which is slightly protruding out of the copper plate.

Hi Nakazoru, 1. I am not sure what is the PAR value is, but just wanted to have the brightest that I can lay my hands on, if too bright can always trim down Right 2. The acrylic block is use to carry water around to cool the copper plate which the LED is mounted on. With water cool, I will not expect the juntion temperature to go more than 50 Deg (theory only). 3. Still have not decide on the driver yet. But will be leaning towards a web base PLC controller.

Return noise? Ha ..much easy then i thought.. put a temporary piece of pipe there and it almost complete silence. But found that the return going into both side of addon box for the tunze is too slow. Almost overflow the main tank with only 2 unit of tunze running. Hmmm back on the drawing table, will sleep over it tonight and hopfully dream of a solution.

Water going through the filter.

Wah! bros. still thinking about reefing at 1:00am yeh..will work on it today and see how much can be done.