hongqixian
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Posts posted by hongqixian
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oops. yes, the picture shows Palythoa (Sea Mats). Their flesh contains palytoxin which is dangerous but they are fine so long as u don't handle them with cuts on ur hands.
Palythoa or Sea Mats are large polyps that sprout from an encrusting base. They all share the same base and are quite large.
Zoanthids are similar in appearance but tend to be skinnier. They do not share the same base, but usually grow in large colonies.
Yellow polyps are Parazoanthus sp.
All of these except yellow polyps are commonly lumped together under the common name Button Polyps.
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Eh? I tot the clownfish is supposed to coat the anemone with the anemones mucus so that the anemone will recognise the clownfish as one of its own 'tentacles'? It's portrayed in 'Finding Nemo' too...
sorry for the late reply. haven't been checking the forums awhile.
anyway, the clownfish is trying to "cloak" itself from the anemone by smearing itself with the anemone's mucus. I believe the anemone's nematocysts are not triggered when the tentacles touch plastic. They only trigger when they are in contact with proteinaceous material, is that right? And the tentacles will not trigger when in contact with each other (imagine the anemone wasting it's own stings on itself)
so therefore, the clownfish makes itself invisible to the stings by smearing itself with anemone mucus like u said. the anemone doesn't sting itself. and so, if it cannot effectively make itself invisible (didn't coat itself with mucus properly or sth,) the anemone will be stinging it. hence my sentence that the anemone hasn't gotten used to the clown (maybe gotten used isn't the right phrase)
P.S. is this one of the theories how clownfish are able to live in anemones or has it been proven? i'm not really up to date.
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I think they are the same...button polyp seems to be the common name...not sure on this one....I prefer to cal them zoanthids or zoos for short form....
btw...here a piece I got from re****.....veri nice ...(I still prefer the lady boss..more friendly)
yes, they are zoanthids and not zooanthids
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Yesterday, I saw a small hairy crab, about 3 inches, hiding together with the fish in the same burrow. Will the crab harm it? I try to remove the crab but I couldn't coz it escape quite deep into the burrow.
The hairy crab probably would if it caught the fish sleeping. But this fish seems rather tank-smart to me. I would worry more about what the crab would do to snails and other organisms.
This goby needs regular feeding at least once every couple of days.
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i dunno if it's a leech or not... it's on the glass of my tank... not too sure wad to do about them... and the thing is that there are about 200 - 300 of them... and each is about 0.5mm long... wad to do??? =(
Ah. It could be a flatworm invasion(bad) or tubeworm larvae settling on the glass(very very good)
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Where did u see it?
If it's like a leech... then it's going to stick onto ur fishes whenever got chance.
Not a very gd thing to have it inside a tank.
Leech?
I don't know much about marine leeches. There doesn't seem to be many. Leeches usually occur in freshwater.
In saltwater the main bloodsuckers are isopods(crustaceans). (Of course, there is the cold-water lamprey which is a bloodsucking fish, not technically a leech)
Many slugs(either bad or difficult to keep), flatworms(bad), and invertebrate larvae all look wormy. Or perhaps it is simply a worm. Mushrooms sometimes have wormy organs they occasionally leave out of their mouth.
Do you mean the worm spawned or something spawned the worm?
If you think something spawned the worm, how do you know it spawned?
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just found got 1 little cute crab in my tank....guess it from the LR tat i buy yday....anyway tis little cute crab wont harm the living tings in my tank right.....???
Bad. Most crabs should be flushed, except for maybe the small and harmless boxing crab. There are a few that MAY control algae but tend to eat other things as well.
I found at least 6 in my 2 ft tank. I hate these crabs. They are responsible for many of the mysterious disappearances in tanks, especially for shellfish and snails.
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i think i'm in deep sh*t...
was sealife today... bought a yellow head goby and a RED CORIS WRASSE... asked the auntie there before if its reef compatible, peaceful together with a diadema dottyback and the goby and eats frozen preparation... she says yes to all
but when i search websites.. it seems that it is an aggresive fish.. cannot be kept with inverts... not reef compatible... destructive... and worst thing is... they are EXPERT ONLY fish...
should haf done my homework more thoroughly..
think i would haf to let go.. any one wanna adopt.. altho at this moment.. the wrasse and the goby remains invinsible.. the wrasse is somewhere under the sand.. the goby i dunno...
i really dun mind giving it away... no choice it seems.. any takers?
P.S. they grow big.
Another reason why LFS advice should always be taken with a pinch of salt.
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The sound very loud leh......
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You meant the clownfish has not gotten used to the anemone.
Not really. It's the anemone with the stings calling the shots hehe
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The anemone is Anemonia majano or a similar species. They are beautiful(sort of like mini bubbletips) but tend to be pests as they sting and spread quickly, though not as bad as aiptasia. They can be more easily dealt with. Sometimes sold in colonies in LFSes on rocks.
The algae is Neopencillus sp or Pencillus sp, something like that (i remember seeing it in the Guide to Singapore's Coral reefs/Seashore. A nice calcareous algae that doesn't really last long.
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I agree with hongqixian..anemones with stronger stings generally eat larger prey items in the wild...Eg. carpet anemones, tube anemones..
Anemones with weaker stings are slightly more picky over their food choices in the wild...some studies have shown that bubble tipped anemones actually selectively prefer planktonic prey.
Even the most healthy of anemones will take DAYS to fully digest food. It is always best to underfeed than to overfeed. Underfeeding will cause your anemone to grow slower...but overfeeding will cause it to die.
Digestion needs energy. Feeding a newly purchased anemone frequently and with large food items will greatly lead to their demise. The energy needed to replace nematocysts lost during transport coupled with the energy needed to digest food will stress the animal out.
My advice for newly acquired anemones (photosynthetic ones)..would be to give them strong light...and starve them for 7-10 days before you commence feeding. Give them time to recuperate in your tank before subjecting them to the energy demands needed to digest food. Even food as small as a mysis....will take days to be fully digested.
Sometimes...a little starvation is good.
very detailed
P.S. The D. azureus in your signature is nice.
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Sorry, i do not quite get what u are trying to say here.
Do u suggest that i further widen the side opening so that the tube worm will join the tubing together again?
That is technically correct but not quite what i meant, sry, explanation not clear
I actually meant that you can cut the tube open so that the worm can open properly, but not completely detach the cut tubing. When the worm grows, it will use the bits to strengthen its tube. It's also useful to leave some of the tubing partially attached so that the worm can easily join back its tube(in a different way that it can open properly) if it decides that you have cut too much of its tube open.
This is just to make sure that the worm is well protected against crabs/shrimp/fish that might attack its exposed body. It can survive without its tube in a safe, predator free environment (although it might waste some energy building a new one). The tube is the worm's form of protective clothing.
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hi, I doubt its scuba if its just a school experience thing, or rather its not a proper scuba open water certifying course, but yes it prob is diving using scuba gear. "compressed air" is basically scuba diving already, where you take a tank of compressed air and breathe it underwater, else its considered snorkelling or free diving. I"m just guessing but I think its similar to PADI's experience diving prog, not sure what it entails (can just from padi website) but it essentially just lets you try out scuba diving in a very controlled manner (hence safe).
hyperbaric chamber is simply a pressure chamber where you sit or lie in, and they increase the pressure inside the chamber to mimic the pressure you'll feel deep in the sea. donno what is the pt of being inside for tests, but maybe just to screen out pple who freak out easily or something? Usu it is only used to treat a diver with decompression sickness or bends. so heh EVERYONE here will NOT want to be able to tell you what it feels like to be inside a chamber!!!!
The important test you should do is check if your ear passage is normal. go swimming pool, deeper the better, dive to the bottom, as you go deeper, "pop" your ear by holding shut your nose and blowing out air. is this easy to do? some pple have very narrow middle ear passage which closes shut upon pressure and so difficult to equalise or "pop". but there are also doctors who can simply check for you too.
10m pressure is no big deal, when you equalise your ears you'll feel no pain or squeeze on your ears (like when you go swimming and you swim deep), and when you breathe compressed air which is supplied at the same pressure as the water around you (10m) you won't feel any difference than breathing on land. so the feeling is like as tho you are simply swimming in the swimming pool!
my advise is GO FOR IT MAN!!! shiok experience! don't care what test test they give you, just anyhow go and hantum! Oh and try to be fit and healthy to minimize any risks of diving! oh and lastly bring along a kodak underwater disposable camera! (the kind up to 30m one, blue colour)
thanks! very detailed explanation. i'll take your advice and go for it
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It just looks like a non-furry big bristleworm or an earthworm slightly skinner than it's tube, with a fluffy head attached. that's all.
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i just realised you said every few days. Feeding anemones should be a treat once in a while, as they mostly depend on their symbiotic algae. You can put small bits of mussel on the anemone to feed it. Don't do it too often though, just once a week or once per two weeks.
P.S. Tube anemones (with stronger stings) depend more on meaty foods so you can feed them twice as often. Small pieces of fish also go down well with them.
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So far so good for the anemone : ) Thanks.. Unfortunately, one of my tomato clown fish died after it swims into it.. stung?..
It depends on what type of anemone. Clownfish don't usually get killed by swimming into uncompatible anemones or maybe the anemone had not totally gotten used to the clownfish yet. If the clownfish swam into something like a really stinging tube anemone, it would just swim away. Deaths do happen though. Just not that often.
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did he mean STUCK????i thot he said STRUCK..
he did. typo i guess. but if it was struck to the surface he'd be scraping it off with a knife
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hello all. i've been browsing this forum alot and i've seen lots of very wonderfully done rockwork done by the reefers here. then i look at my own tank, and i come to an absurd realisation that i need a major rescaping. therefore, here's my plea for you all to post up your rock work. i know i'll gain some inspiration from your various 'designs'. don't go shy on me and the other people who read this forum please. you'll be of great help. thanks.
how old is your tank?
beware that rescaping may stir up a deep sand bed if you have one and it may cause creatures on live rock to die in the process, causing a mini cycle.
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gently place the food near the anemone's mouth. If it is hungry it will eat the food. If it is full or sick it will not eat or it may regurgitate the food l8r.
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they are very prone to diseases themselves. They also tend to get attacked by crabs/worms when they find a hole in the rockwork to sleep at night.
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I was thinking of signing up for a short diving course (couple of weeks - I don't think it's scuba - it says diving with compressed air to depth of 10m or sth like that) and the application form says that all applicants have to be tested in a hyperbaric oxygen chamber. what exactly does it feel like?
and what does it(pressure) feel like 10m under water? i dunno, haven't even gone snorkeling b4.
It's not a professional lesson, just a school experience thing. i just want to sign up for the fun of it. anyone has any advice to offer?
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are tube worms considered hardy? I have FOWLR with
2 4ft tubes 10000K and a 4ft actinic blue in a 5 ft casing
on a 5ft tank. ammonia/NO2 = 0 but NO3 still being treated
with AZ-NO3, last checked at 30mg/l but going down.
will it survive?
The worms in the 2ft tank will need feeding with some fine food like phytoplankton. Kent Phytoplex (bottled dead phytoplankton) can be used if everything else is inconvenient. (it can be kept in the fridge)
They will need to be in a quiet place otherwise they will be hidden most of the time. Put in fine sand to allow them to build their mucus tubes. Feed once a week with phytoplankton and use some simple and GENTLE filtration. (air pump operated??) If so, you'll need to do small water changes.
P.S. adding some amphipods and copepods to your tank will allow pods to breed in the tank. The larvae will feed the worms and the pods eat the leftover phytoplankton. It's a win-win situation.
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Looks like this? Then its like what hongqixian had mention, isopod.
Remove like what other mention, removw fish then remove the isopod with pincer!!
Yes that's the kind. But the pictured louse is a bit on the large side for the ones sneaking around in the rock. They do come in all sizes though.
Remove with a blunt headed pair of pincers and be careful. You don't want to end up skewering your fish.
Fish hiding in the rock tend to be easier targets for fish lice. It's easier to climb on and suck blood
Everything Died!!!
in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
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Your wooden air diffuser is smothered with algae in the picture. The goniopora was not a very good choice for a 2fter. the sand looks a bit white and new to me.
I think that its a bit useless to start a thread saying that your tank died and asking people to share their experiences. You should state the problem, what happened and tank dimensions and all and then we can more effectively help to to pinpoint the problem instead of having to ask you about this and that. Sorry about your loss. Maybe you should spend more time planning a tank properly before you start another one and find the reason for the crash first.
P.S. flame scallops should not be kept in a 2ft without much filtration as their feeding will cause pollution. Judging from your goniopora and the polyps (is this picture taken a few hours after the lights were on?) the sign that they aren't open much could be due to nitrates. and why is your scallop stuck in that weird position in the middle of the rock? Usually healthy scallops will run off and hide in the rockwork and die there.
Why are there chunks of blue sponge in your tank? Did you have a blue sponge that died or sth? they can cause a lot of pollution.