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acontia

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Posts posted by acontia

  1. Atlantis

    i'm using the Sulphur base reactor SN400, with recirculation pump.

    it runs in series with the CR400, with recirculation pump.

    it's the same unit u have attached on your first post.

    for those that want to use sulphur reactors, but do not want to spend

    money buying those with recirculation pumps, IMO is asking for trouble ( smells really bad & clogs due to Bacteria Goo/film )

    i've DIY flow through open system sulphur reactors and found them not effective.

    perhaps used on smaller tanks with ligter bioload would be more ideal.

    as for the effluent of the SR, u need to diy a drip counter for adjusting your sulphur drip rate, then only can u reconnect it to your skimmer intake. it's quite a simple device that many ppl can DIY. i use it on my CR effluent as well, it helps with degassing too. i don't send my CR (and will never ) effluent to my skimmers for fear of precipitation due to sudden change of PH from 6++ - 8++, this sudden change has been known to cause calcium to come out of solution, it turns back to calcium chalk. ( reference can be found on Sprung / Delbeek Vol 3 )

    i'll post a pic of that drip device later for your reference.

    Cheers.

    PS: i'm so sorry to my 2 loving clowns that i left out in my fish list.

    (skunky & Percky) i'm sure they'll never 4give me :o:o oh well...

  2. hi Altantis

    iv'e been using this sulphur base denitrator for more then 2 years. it's running on series, meaning raw water enters the sulphur deni 400 first (the unit is completely filled with sulphur beads). it then enters to a another same unit filled with calcium carbonate. (calcium reactor 400) after that that the effulent is sucked into my beckett skimmer's pump intake for degasssing.

    it's a good unit that does not need much tuning only during the fist few months when u're cycling the reactor. after which tuning is required only if nitrate starts to get out of whack. for me now i don't touch it at all and i've not test NO3 for months. just observing the tank for indication of algae bloom, if any. i stiil have hair algae growing on my overflow comb, but thats common. u might want to incorporate a refugium with chaeto for better results in No3 control. oh ya, my tank is 4.5x2.5x2.5 and my water change habit is about once every 4months(30%). it's a mix reef with 50% Sps 30%Lps 20% soft corals.

    fish list

    *clown surgeon

    *Kole tang

    *yellow tang

    *purple tang

    *sailfin tang

    *powder blue

    *5 anthias

    *8 Blue green chromis

    *4 yellow tail chromis

    *3 talboti damsel ( ? spelling)

    *1 starkii damsel

    *1 sixline wrasse

    *1 morish idol

    *1 lamack angel

    *1 bangai cardinal

    feeding every day with pellets, 1-2 times a week with frozen mysis.

    word of advice using this unit. go get a better valve for water control. those AM valve suck big time. they either leak or always gets choke. i've tried many ( MANY!! ) types of valve in the past and now i'm happy with Clamp valves. ( HnS use them for thier skimmer's air control ).

    well.. thats it for my intro, PM me if u need more help on setting it up.

    i'm charging by the hour so will free to contact ;);)

    Cheers

  3. aftermath!!!!

    i hate to spoil your DIY plans.... but it's for your animals/own good.

    u can't use silicone on acrylic it wll surely give way in due time.

    better be safe then sorry dude. it's not too late to change it to glass.

    glass is cheap and good with silicone. just make sure get at least

    8mm and above float glass.

    cheers

    almost 4get to add..... get the return overflow hole bigger. after the bulkhead and pipe going in it'll be less then 22mm

  4. if u use the wrong materials, u'll kill everything in your tank. if u apply the wrong voltage, u'll dissolve limestone in your tank (drop in PH)(chlorine is produce using this same method). those that really want to try electrolysis should just forget about it (but it can be done). unless u've got the correct anode if not, most materials that u use as an anode will just dissolve right in front of your eyes.

    6mm rebars will most likely last for only a few days and your tank will be completely brown due to Fe that has dissolved. ;)

    u'll need the most presize charger, + - . ? amp different makes a big difference.

    exotic compound coated on titanium will only last 5 or more yrs as anode before it all dissolves into the water. anyway most ppl will never be able to get this material. (it's patented.... there is 2 companys in the world that produce them now) price is about 100-150 USD/m2 for retailers excluding frieght charges. :D

    cheers

  5. it'll be a logistic nightmare to organize for such a leave on board trip. :o

    60++ and still counting :shock:

    how many boats will be nedded to have comfortable space for everyone? :P

    u'll better think it through carefully or else there'll be some real problems with safety. ;)

    compressors for the tanks will really need to be push to it's working limits, u'll even need backup compressors to have a smooth trip :lol:

    woooah .....from a distance underwater, i'll look like a pod of marine mammals migrating. :lol::lol::lol:

  6. Selling Tunze Automatic skimmer 220/3

    This is a good plug and play skimmer.

    letting go at $200/-

    PM me if interested.

    thanx.

    Dimensions: l.280x w.157x h.235mm

    (l.11 x w.6.1 x h.9.2 in.)

    Built-in depth: abt. 60 - 90 mm

    230 V / 50 Hz (115 V / 60 Hz) 12 W

    Air output 300 l/h

    For aquarium sizes of 150 to 400 l of salt water

    post-10-1124947624.jpg

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