Cookiemunster

hahahaha I'll sponsor famous amos cookies to dump in your tank FOC.

Well said Domino, yup I fully agree with Domino. He is right. Although using a good quality relay will make it last longer and prevent any accidents. Cheers

Excuse me? Expensive? Ok I guess its expensive when it comes with 2 float switches, safety fuse and DC voltage passing thru float switches for safety. Its strange that paying for components is cheap and the completed unit is expensive. wow. If you just want the float switch pm me, its only $18 each. Alternatively you can view my thread at TUBBY

Cedric, you will have a problem if you wire it this way. Imagine if the chiller pump fails. The sensor detects tank temp as still not at the cold set temp required so it never cuts off. Heat exchanger turns to ice and .........

yes comparatively thats true.....but its still very very high pressure regardless. Depressurised from liquid to gas or pressurised from gas to liquid. Whether its before or after the transition. I was refering to overall pressure in the tube. But I agree.

Bro, with all aspects the same, the dip in would be the best because it has the heat exchanger closest to the water and no additional pump is needed. However, although efficiency is the best. We must not forget the fact that having a TRUE rated compressor and equivalent specs fan, fan coil, heat exchanger to be the same as a efficient chiller is hard to find. Most often you only get one or the other, ie either dip in with poor specs or poor heat exchanger with good specs. hahhaa. There are also risks involved with a dip in. Such as easier for gas to leak, dangers of damage to the coil as it is exposed, bulky thing in the sump which if not placed properly can crack the tank. Often the risks outweigh the benefits. The gas pressure in the heat exchanger coil is tremendous. However if these are overcome, then it is better.

Please get your facts right. Any chiller can be made to drip water. Even a 1/8Hp chiller. It is a design flaw if its dripping. Meaning condensation and wastage of cooling power to ambient heat loss. Prevention of this condensation is done by proper insulation. Those seafood cooling freezers or tanks usually do not have a casing to maximise heat transfer to ambient. But technology is the same. The only difference is how many hp is used and size of heat exchanger.

Due to certain reasons in which I do not wish to get into conflicts with your chiller brand, I won't want to do this in public. But you are free to pop by my place to see for yourself which I have been asking you to do so for months liao.

erhm actually the fins and fan are standard 1/2hp sets. The only difference is they anodised it blue and tilted it to its side. 16W fan is small already. The fan would have been more effective if it was ###### direct behind the cooling coil fins. The reason its so powerful is cos its basically blowing straight out at you from the back. Other than that, I dun see any much difference. Just my 2 cents worth. Glad you like it so much. I think the bigger helix coil version may perhaps be better due to the theory behind it. However, Weileong....a bigger heat exchanger coil will always perform much better than a smaller one.....provided the coils in it are maximised and occupies the whole container. I only paid $1200 for my pacific coo 1/2hp how much did your pay for this? Just curious.

hahaha Glare AT hinting at something. hahaha Well I compared it with my salifert and pinpoint ph probe. My probe was reading 8.32 ph

erhm joe_p why do you need so many chambers? I think an additional chamber is more than enough in fact already an overkill. An additional chamber only serves to reduce the ph of the affluent by dissolving more of the media. But 3 chambers? Still, it looks impressive but kinda too complicated with so many tubings running around.

Recently I had the privilege to do a review for Glare on some new test kits he brought in, namely the Mini Labor brand. I compared the results with Salifert and here are my test analysis and conclusions. Using the Mini Labor test kits was relatively simple. It was just a matter of understanding the dutch translations to english but usage wise is similar to salifert. The kits come with clearly labeled bottles stored in a big plastic container instead of flimsy paper boxes. So there is no worry of lost syringes or spoons dropping out of the boxes. First the tests results done using Salifert: KH=4.5dkh Nitrate = 0.5 - 1.0 (ppm) Cal = 380ppm PH = 8.0 - 8.3 And the results of Mini Labor: KH=4 dkh Nitrate= <5 undetectable Cal=310ppm PH 8.2 - 8.3 From the above results, we can see that overall, the values analyzed by both test kits are quite similar, except for calcium which the Mini Labor reported lower values (I confirmed this 3 times). These tests were conducted simultaneously to avoid discrepancies due to temperature and ph fluctuations. Conclusion: Salifert scale of values is wider (more steps between whole numbers....eg, 4.2, 4.4, 4.7 compared to 4, 5, 6) and more defined for the kh and nitrate tests. But the Mini Labor has its advantages in the ph test by providing a much wider scale for the ph compared with salifert. As for the calcium test, the scale is the same. Price wise, Mini Labor definitely has the obvious attraction and if you are not looking for precise decimal place values for the test results, its a test kit to consider. But if you are the Laboratory assistant who wants perfection in numbers and where money is not the issue, I would strongly recommend getting Salifert's KH, Nitrate and calcium test kits. And Mini Labor's PH test kits. But if budget is a concern, then stick to Mini Labor kits because they give the same results to the whole number. PS. On a side note, I know my calcium and dkh levels are dangerously low and thats because I have a problem keeping up with my 20 clams, SPS and tremendous coralline algae growth because I disconnected my calcium reactor 3 months ago. If not for my Kalk Reactor, my levels would have been much worse. My PH is also fluctuating like crazy because of this. Reefers dun try this at home. Finally for those who are interested, please contact Glare for purchases of this great test kit.

Sorry guys I am not trying to make a hoo ha about everything. I only spoke up because I found it a very negative remark towards a really nice guy. I just wanted to clear the air with the negative impression thats all. I'm not trying to get you guys into trouble or anything. Peace and no offense.

Hey guys, I really don't think you should condemn V**tr** like that. The boss is a really nice guy. Just because he can't bring in what you want, it doesn't mean they are no good. In the first place they are not selling marine stuff. They deal with industrial lighting. I think he is already being very nice by entertaining us considering we only walk in to buy 1 or 2 sets or just bulbs only. His real customers are building contractors who place orders of at least $10000 to $50000 per order. So think about that.

Bro I think you are giving needlewheels too little credit. Becketts use brute force method. And require very very powerful pumps which consume alot of energy ($$$) to make them effective. Needlewheels use smaller pumps to create substantial amounts of fine bubbles. Even if I use 2 needlewheel skimmers such as 2 HnS, it still uses less than 1/3 the wattage needed for just 1 beckett skimmer. And efficiency wise, 2 HnS is definitely more effective than 1 beckett. Its also all about design. The whole idea is to be efficient. Otherwise if money is not an issue and electric bills isn't a concern, then by all means go for the becketts. If you watch needlewheel skimmers, the skimmate level does not bob up and down and is very consistant. Whereas becketts will keep bobbing up and down. If needlewheels were as large as becketts, size to size, it would beat becketts hands down. Wattage for wattage too. What I mean is to use the same size cylinder with the equivalent number of pumps running needlewheels compared to a single beckett pump wattage.

Its dead but freshly dead. Just like the meat and fish you buy at NTUC. Since its frozen hard, as bawater suggested, chop it into small cubes and use it to drop into your tank each time to dose. Slow dosing and cheapo method of cooling tank too. hahahha

Its best to consult Ian. You can take alook at his products here: Ian's products Pm him to contact him.

bro dun worry its still safe to use. Just that its no longer live. Meaning one cannot use it to start phyto cultures from it anymore. But feeding to tank is still ok. In fact if its frozen you can easily keep it to use for up to 6 months or more.

wow bro....very very nice. It used to be so common last time. But now so hard to find. I am looking for a good colony too. well done.

hahaha no prob bro. My tank is nothing compared to the metropolis jungle city tanks of yours and hon.

Hon then you got a big problem. A true 1.25hp chiller cannot even fit in a car. Ask alvy how big his 1hp compressor is. And its way to heavy to sit on a rack too.

forget it guys....he already said he can handle it.

becareful!!!! Remember to unplug the mains before doing any cleaning or maintainance.

Hon the problem with many chillers is cos they are either not true rated....ie not using the rated compressors. Or they use small heat exchangers and fans to reduce shipping weight and costs.

Did your chiller overheat resulting in the trip? Or did water spill inside? What caused the trip? If its due to overheating, let it cool down for 30 mins and start it again. But you should do something about the setup or upgrade the chiller if its due to overheat.