RX_GAN

hey... where u live ? if near my place(east), i can pop by to help u. cheers. pm me or anything.

haha...toking abt harlequin shrimp.. i do see them around sometimes. if u looking for one do let me know, so that when i see one during my shopping, i can get it for u. as for starfishes...try to feed it with Nardoa or brittlestar.. becos both Nardoa and brittlestar tends to grow their leg back after it drops off.. and for brittlestar, the leg will still be moving even after u cut it off. i still have one moving leg in my tank which just stays there alive. Amzing isn't it ? haha...linkia will rot and died of necrolysis so no point getting one. they are well-known to survive badly in captive. sand-sifting should be okay but i think it's too small and recovery rate is kinda slow. 2" harlequin, i do see them around....close to around 25 to 30 per piece. Cheers.

Fromia Indica...feed on junk foods...which means any uneaten food and stuffs... dun really need to feed it if u do feed your fishes. it will search for food on it's own. but if u wan, u can still feed it with what u are feeding now. just place it besides it... cheers. good luck.

hahahaha...it's more possible that if u said that ur clown eat your cleaner than your cleaner shrimp eat your clown..haha.. yeah...like wat the rest mention, your cleaner shrimp is just eating the remains of your clown so you don't have to worry about that. It's just cleaning up your tank. 20percent of water change is not too much so you don't have to worry about that. Your shrimps are actually more sensitive to water parameters than your clownfish. Fishes dying can be caused by that of your water. it might be full of viruses and bacterias. did your fishes show any sign of diseases before they died ? The water parameters can be alright and nothing wrong but if there is illness in the water, it can caused the death of fishes. u need to observe more and look into your water parameters too becos coming into a conclusion. change ur water twice a week per ten percent each time. it will allow you to slow remove the bad stuffs in it. then get a bettabox by your tank, put in a clown or damsel into the bettabox and observe it. damsel will be a good choice as they are hardy but can be troublesome when they get used to the tank, they can be aggressive. and sometimes they are too hardy for good. using a bettabox can help you to get rid of them becos it will be hard to catch them later. CHEERS. Good LUck..

NICE CLAM BRO. I have visited his place, corals and clams are all in top condition. UPZ

X-FACTOR doesn't contain spirulina for now as a new project has been opened for that. and X-NATURE is now your official sponsor here. Thanks for all the support. Please visit us here. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showforum=83

it's still acclimating. normally when u buy gonoipora esp. flowerpot(jewel), look out for dead heads. any dead head will give the coral to a death sentence even if u see it opening in the shop. or else u can wait for a few days to see it open up slowly. When it acclimate to ur tank, it can explode to a very big size monster. dun have to worry now. just put in at somewhere with low current. and let it acclimate there. dun keep shifting ur coral. it will slowly open up for u. at the same time keep a lookout for ur water parameters. Cheers.

i believed that it is possible. shouldn't have a problem. u can try putting a quantity of 50 percent rowaphos and 50percent carbon. seachem also have a product called seagel which is mixture of carbon and phosguard. the reason why it's better is also becos most activated will leech phos into the water. no matter how good or how well they claimed, it tends to leech a small amount of phos into the water. using rowaphos and prevent that to happen by simply absorbing the leeched phos. Good luck.

reliable dealer and good price. UPZ for u.

upz for u bro. all the best

Enquires abt x-factor: hey guys, x-factor is a reef food so it's suitable for a reef tank which means invert and fishes. u can feed it to ur corals and fishes. Your shrimps will also enjoy this delicacy. i have a few customers which only use X-factor to feed their reef tank and not even using planktons. X-factor is made of organic substances so it will have no harm to ur fishes after feeding them. direction of use for those who bought it. the best way to use it is to take one cube out of the box, then soak it with a cup of water. defrost it and use the spoon provided to scoop a teaspoon of food out then pour it in the direction of the wave. Wait and see.pour more when needed. use the remaining juice to entice ur sun corals if they are not opening. anything more regarding sun corals, pls pm me. thanks. and for those who prefer to throw the cube into the water directly, it's also okay to do so. this again depends on ur feeding habits. and if ur fish is not feeding, it's not becos of the food. A possible ich or whitespot outbreak might be coming. so u may wanna keep a lookout for the fishes. and a new research, which i have done recently, shows that fishes which believe to be actually feeding can stop feeding if stressed from tankmates. and also those which are slightly affected or affected by diseases might stop feeding. So make it a habit to check that everyone is feeding when u feed them. if one of them is not, keep a lookout on it cos it might be sick. and for these sick fishes, u need to coax them with food slowly again. if not, they will die of starvation in no time. hope these informations are useful for all of the users. and if u have any questions regardin x-factor, i will try to help u in this aspects. Cheers.

yup. wat u mention is correct. a lot of research still need to be done in regards to marine fishes.. unlike freshwater fishes...marine fishes are just catch from sea and nothing much is really known abt them. cleaner wrasse happened to be one of the victims around with some of the butterfly and other fishes...

CKS3863 bro, pls let me know when i can deliver the two boxes to u. thank you very much. have a nice day. pls contact me. thanks.

currently left a few boxes. the rest are collected and reserved. drop me a pm or sms. will be making more stocks over the weekend. Cheers.

first is that ur hermit if not died then they are stressed. can't be pregnant. and they getting to each other is not becos they are mating. it's becos they are fighting for shell.. it's a common sight for hermits. u can try to let them acclimate for a longer time and if they are still like that. check ur nitrite. might be high. for chiller...u can keep many types of fishes as long as the temerature dun kepp changing. a fan is good but may increase ur rate of evapourate. i suggest that u get a chiller for a long term plan. 2ft chiller ain't ex. and rescaping... exposing ur rocks to the air will eventually caused ur anaerobis bacteria to die. but aerobic bacteria wun get affected. u may need a short recycle for that. becos when anaerobic bacteria starts to colony back again, NNR will occur removing nitrate and can caused a spike in nitrite. normally in a week time, things will be stablised. and for circulation, it depends on wat corals u wanna keep... LPS or SPS ?? for fishes...it's not abt wat u can keep but it's abt wat u should not try now... no-no list: powder blue. powder black. achilies. blue tang. try not to get any tang for a start. moorish idol. angels. sharks. eel. pufferfish. reason is that tangs, angel and moorish idols have high chances of getting ich. and as a starter, they can be discouraging and very unstable as ur tank is only 3weeks old. any disease will result in u having to change water so save the trouble now. eel, shark and pufferfish need a lot of spaces. try to gain some experience by getting other fishes before trying these. and strong circulation will prevent algae growth. it's true becos: it increases amount of water turnover and that removes nutrients from the tank before algae can grow. and increases oxygen level as algae loves places with nutrients and carbon dioxide as these are the essential things for their living. and the way they reproduce. they reproduce by budding and spores so current can caused these spores to be remove by filtration. but it's will be useless to use current to prevent algae growth becos u need very strong current and there will somehow be a deadspot. so focus on nutrient export. good luck.

20k and actinic are both totally diff. 20k is white light with blue tint and y can run 20k without actinic. actinic is just blue light and u can't run it alone for corals.

will do.6.5k can stimulate the growth of corals. it's kinda yellowish white not the sunlight white. that combination will do. or else u can try 20k. it's more blueish. as long as it's 3 to 1actinic. the combination is ur own preference. cos in the end, there is no way u can stimulate the real sunlight. or else u can try 1X 6.5K, 1 X 10k, 1X20K and 1X actinic. hahha...all the spectrum. :>

it's a must. with that... or else the oxygen will get used up and the water will be still. and when u change water with that, ur fish will be affect by the sudden drop in oxygen level. esp tangs...they are very sensitive to oxygen level.

pink ones. they are really big but this is not when they are fully open. sun corals dun like light so it will take them quite some time to acclimate to light. i try to update on some pictures of black and with white lighting soon. CHEERS. have fun reefing guys. and sorry for the blur pictures again. will take some with digital camera soon.

one more.

as promised. some pictures taken with actinic. eproxy everything together. the whole colony has pink, yellow, orange and black suns together. hahaha..happy family. but black is just 3 polyps and dun think u can see them here in the pictures.

red hermit is only the color and not the name...so we can't really know wat kinda hermit u are refering to. sorry abt that. becos halloween and others are all red in color. perharps u can ask the man, get one, take a picture. observe it. good luck.

upz.

yeah.

hahaha...thread in wat section le..next time can post it in LFS location there.hehe. good luck.