jd_n

YT shipment came in on last friday evenin over at Ah beng but has been cleared by Sat late morning.

Well, IMO and if i m not wrong....by lookin at the pic of this clam. The macham "teardrop" lining r all linked (like m'sia join thailand join burma join......up north). The so called Teardrop shd be isolated as in indvidual markin like "one drop of markin and then another drop of similar markin and another and................. and w/o them being join together by any lines. Too bad i dun have pix of mine and they definitely dun look like the pix u attached. Its similar to wat Rodian has.

Its a 3inch selling for $40.

one left.

Goodluck complete newbie. There r more than meet the eyes than juz lightin alone.

How abt 1000W.... The idea of 1000W has been layin domain in AT's mind for quite some time, juz need some reminding to lure him to the "bright side".

hmm....23 inches isssssssssssss..less than 2ft(juz confirm usin measuring tape and if that depth is w/o sand and after filling sand in u could be left with abt 18inch of water). Anyway, to name a few, DB, Morgan, Seahorse......uses 250W MH for their tank which is deeper than urs. And i believe there r alot of others usung juz 150W for that depth of urs. I didn't hear of any complains frm them regardin the wattage of their's light. I m currently running a combination of 250W on the left 150W in the ctr and 400W on the right. And the 250W has served me well....of coz if u wanna go for a 400W, by all means...nuthin beats the sun. But bear in mind the heat produced.

Nope.

Well....u indeed posted it in the wrong section. Pm the mod to help u move this thread to the proper section. To answer ur ques....wattage plays a part in the pentration thru water. The 250W MH will of coz give u better penetration than the 150W. If u r running a chiller, go for the 250W MH which will last u even when u upgrade to a bigger size and deeper tank. Else get the 150W MH if u foresee tat ur tank will nvr exceed 1 1/2ft depth be it now or future. Fyi, 250W will definitely boil ur tank if ur current tank is a 2ft one runnin w/o chiller.

Lettin go a 4inch+ golden brown teardrop maxi for $60. N no pix coz DC have not been returned to me yet . View, like it then get it else no obligation. Interested, pls pm me.

okok...will be waitin.

hehheh....only seahorse knw which one i m tokin abt. Ming, the last time i saw ur tank like almost fowlr. Have those ric grown since.

When u gonna cut the one i have been eyein

Hmm....wat i meant is tat if u r able to get one tat is feeding on (food u provide) then its ok to keep him in a fowlr tank coz it's chances of survival is very much higher coz its eating. But to put him in a reef tank, its a risk u have to take. It can be eating (food u provide) and leave u corals alone as long it is being well fed or there are always chances tat it will peck corals after he has makan coz tats their nature.

Think u got the wrong idea of them being peaceful coz stated by "literatures" and they r easy to keep. Yellow tang is semi-aggressive and it is aggressive towards its own species, or Tangs in general, and it is best to keep only one per tank. It needs a varied diet high in beta-carotene and vitamin C, and low in protein matter. To maintain its bright coloration, however, it must keep to a strict herbivore diet to prevent fading (tats not easy, lots of committment ). Blue tang is peaceful as it is tolerant of other tangs, but can occasionally be aggressive towards other Blue Tangs. It is more susceptible to lateral line disease, fin erosion, ich and other skin parasites than many other fish. Naso tang is aggressive towards other tangs, but peaceful with other fish in the tank community. Lastly, u added an aggressive fish (Sohal). The Sohal Tang is hardy, but susceptible to a disease known as Lateral Line erosion, or Hole in the Head. A vegetarian diet high in vitamins, especially beta-carotene can aid in the prevention of development of the disease. Stray voltages are also thought to contribute to this disease and the grounding probe may be beneficial. Sohal Tangs are very aggressive. They should not be kept with other Tangs or Wrasse species. They tend to be well-behaved with old tank mates, but try to kill any new additions. They are only suited for large aquariums with other aggressive fish. They do fairly well in very large reef systems with no other Tangs, and plenty of swimming room

Unless u can get one tat is oreadi feedin on mysis, bs, pellets.....else won't recommend u to buy them coz ultimately they juz die.

They may pick on invertebrates, especially anemones and feather dusters. They are an excellent fish when used to control aiptasia, or glass anemones, in the reef aquarium. The Copperband Butterflyfish is a difficult fish to feed; it is a shy and deliberate feeder that may need a variety of foods offered to it in order to start feeding. It can be reef safe or not and will be difficult to tell wat corals it will peck until it start pecking so its best not to keep them in a reef tank and its a gamble if u do so (50/50%). Inverts include crabs, anemones, cephalopods, cucumbers, fan worms, jellyfish, lobsters, scallops, clams, sea slugs, shrimps, snails, sponges, starfish, urchins, tunicates and sea squirts.

icic.....ok, most of the reefers here r using 250W MH for their 2-2.5ft depth tank so u can seriously consider the 250W. Unless u going for 3ft depth which u will nd to put on a mask and snorkel to do ur setup, a 400W will be good. But of coz, if u can afford the 1000W MH in terms(PUB bills, chiller....n not forgettin the amt of heat produce)by all means..get it. Nuthin beats the sun.

Before u start throwin ques....its better u fill us in on the proper info so tat we can advise u better. Deeper as in how deep? 2ft, 3ft????? If u tokin abt ur present tank being 1ft deep and ur deeper meanin 1.5ft deep then the present 150W is gd enough. btw, wat do u meant by (only sometimes i use), is urs a reef tank or fowlr ?

Huh...not worried tat ur PT gonna whack him

So u must b James73, brother of James72.

yuhoo....seahorse...where r u

Untill u do the necessary testing of ur water, none of us here can tell u wat went wrong with ur corals. It may b ur aneomne, it may not be. If i were u, i would get pH, NO2, KH and ammonia test kit first. And pls do not conclude tat u have Rowaphos meaning u do not have PO4 problem coz the amt of Rowaphos u used may not be able to cater to ur initial high PO4 reading, if there is. In the meanwhile, do water changes till u get ur allowances and looks like ur pocket gonna get burn after u bought those test kits and the necessary addictives to counter ur problem or the nxt best alternative is to chk with who is stayin near to u who can spare some test kits to help u out so tat u can keep ur allowances to get the necessary "antidote" but ultimately, certain test kits are mandatory. Gdluck bro.

Looking frm the pix is very hard to tell due to it's quality The part that changed color shd have polyps extension juz like the rest coz they belongs to the same colony. By the way, the whole colony shd have color up together unless the green part is being position in favour to lightin and good flow. And u r sayin 3-4days ago only 5cent part tat turn green n now spread to 50cent size....hmm, tats fast for coloration. Anyway goodluck with it, juz keep on monitoring or try to get a better pix so tat the problem can be identified.

Me too...29 liaoz