nobody

I have 4 bags of coarse coral chips for sale. Think each bag is 20kg. Suitable for covering a bare bottom tank to create a more natural look without trapping detritus which fine coral sand is prone to. Can also be used as filter medium in a sump etc..... Self collect in Bishan. Please pm me your contact if you are interested. Thanks!

Personally, I always use screws in all the LED projects I've done, whenever it is possible. Firstly, heat tranfer will be better than thermal epoxy. Secondly, it will be easier to replace or upgrade the LED when necessary. I've had LEDs damaged or deteriorated even when driven at spec with PROPER heatsinking. But if you don't want to wait and is adventurous, I've read of people mixing thermal paste with epoxy to made their own "thermal epoxy"!

Coslayer intends to use CCFL as a moonlight. As such, spectrum in not important and there are CCFL that is relatively bright, definitely bright enough as a "moonlight". I agree that CCFL is more fragile. As a LED fanatic, I'll strongly suggest using LED...............

There is a limit to how efficient a fan or even a dozen of fans can cool the light. Otherwise PC makers will just screw in a 120mm fan blowing at the CPU instead of using massive heatsink/fan combination. A beefy heatsink is more or less a MUST for high power LED driven at spec or overdriven......unless you incorporate a temperature sensor/thermal fuse to cut off/lower the LED current in the event of overheating. A beefy heatsink also act as a buffer in the event of fan failure. Dosen't really matters in this case since you're using an acrylic casing.......... When the temperature of the heatsink has reached 80deg. The junction temperature had probably exceeded the safe limit, depending on how good is the thermal interface between the junction/metal core PCB and the interface between metal core PCB/aluminium heatsink. Even if it dosen't exceed the max allowed temperature. Why not use a proper heatsink and further reduce the junction temperature? It not only will improve efficiency(LED efficiency increase with decrease in temperature), it will also prolong the lifespan of your LED. Some people learn from their mistake. Others learn from people's mistake. But there are also those who insist on making mistake before they learn.......

How much is it selling? I've never seen a single one in any LFS since I started marine aquarium in 1992......

Also, it is not a good idea to drive strings of LED in parallel......Unless those LEDs are carefully matched with similar forward voltage.

Nice diy! Your aluminium sheet will probably become very warm, especially if those LEDs are driven at 1A. Personally I would use a beefier heatsink.

I have used acrylic hinges on some other diy. I don't like it cos they are not as strong and they tends to produce those irritating squeaking sound.

I like the cleanliness of bare bottom tank but don't like the unnatural looks. So I use a thin layer of coral chips which looks natural yet my tunze stream are able to circulate water all around it thus keeping detritus suspend until it goes into the overflow.

Cold cathode fluorescent tubes are all over the places in Sim Lim Tower and Sim Lim Square. You can also savage them from some broken scanner, LCD display etc

3A fuse is easily found in Sim Lim Tower......