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mantis

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Posts posted by mantis

  1. Selling all.... :

    1. Korallin C1501 Calcium Reactor = $400 (without media) (Price new is $620).

    2. CO2 Cylinder (1/2 full at least) = $60

    3. Regulator with solenoid valve = $80 (Brand new = $130)

    All use less than a month. And been sitting in store-room.

    Take all for special price of only $500

    PM me your interests and contact. Collection on Thu (3 Nov) at Upper Serangoon area.

    :thanks:

    post-10-1130852886.jpg

  2. Giessemann model MH with timer and can sit on the tank..

    http://www.giesemann.de/en/meerwasserbeleuchtung/260_sun.php

    http://www.giesemann.de/en/meerwasserbeleu...ng/260_moon.php

    much..much more exp than aqualight, Arcadia etc not too sure of the actual price.. but believe it is over 3k.

    can sit on the tank .. sorrie, nope.

    For aqualight, arcadia, giesesmann .. u can get a mh fixture that has same length as your tank hood.. and rest the fixture on your tank hood etc.

    eg: aqualight model or other brands.. fixture with external ballast design- don't need to worry about the weight of the fixture/ballasts.

    :thanks: for the website.

    > 3K is abit off my budget. I may consider something between 1.5k - 2k for such a light or perhaps get DE to customise.

    In the meantime, I hv to replace the burnt magnetic ballast and the MH sockets. After the repairs, I may decide to let go to reefers bro here at a modest price. :) pity that it's only six month old.

  3. well said.

    can also try Giessemann

    Hi Rex,

    Any Giessemann model MH with timer and can sit on the tank? Any advice is welcomed. I saw the one advertised by eAqua.... it seems to be hanging type n I really do not want to drill my ceiling.

    :rolleyes:

  4. IMO this seems to be a case that the wire cable used is undersized... that is why the current gen so much heat and melt the cable ... fire haz... soldering no problem can help you bro :) hehe use bigger size wire.. as for ur ballast maybe it still not spoil and can be used...

    Lester:

    Wow! :rolleyes: Thanks for the offer, bro.

    In the worst case scenario, I was planning to get some new MH mounting sockets @ about $17 a piece (I think) and replace all the four sockets. This will probably mean taking the entire unit apart. But it's still easier than soldering...for me.

    U are rite, at least one of the ballast is still functional. The other burnt alreadi, so I m not taking chances. I was thinking of getting eballast from Dr E to replace the two magnetic ones.

    All in all, I am looking at quite a fair amt of $$$$ of replacement parts......plus the time and effort. I am wondering if it is worth it. What happens if after all these costs and efforts, something go 'kaput' in six months' time.

    I m not sure if I should just repair or get a new MH.....like suggested by a few of the bros, here. I was thinking of Arcadia Slimline Pendant, but I think this only hang and not sit on the hood/tank.

    Any other models of MH that any bros here can recommend would be most welcome.....preferrable eballast, sit on the tank (4 ft), and has a timer.

    Thanks again lester.

  5. :thanks: for all the comments and advices so far.

    I will certainly consider a better brand next time. I agree that there is no point saving on such an item esp.ly when it can be a fire hazard. :shock: And I don't think it's a good idea to take chances and see if you are lucky or unlucky to get one which is flawed.

    Anyway, there is a new develpment. I was just examining the endcap and I found to my horror that the wire has also came off (see pic). It seemed to have just broken off from corrosion....and all these problems just after six months!

    I don't think I would be able to solder the wire back becos of the minute space and I am not technician. :(

    Does any bro here know if I can get a replacement endcap of the type shown? Or any brothers who want to take over this MH, for a token sum, and get it repair.

    I really give up on Atman alreadi! :pirate:

    Any help or advice are really appreciated.

    post-17-1125231020.jpg

  6. can't trust 'china' goods/brands like ATman MH fixture (cheaper but risky to use..) or some diy brands - no point putting your tank/house even your life at risk (unless u don't mind of taking these risks)

    when comes to using equip that consume high watt, do use a reputable brands such as Aqualight which use Heatproof silicon cable, gd ballast and CE certificated etc.. such companies spend $$ and take effots to ensure their products are well-designed, tested and meet the safety requirements -such as ce mark which proves to the buyer or user of the product fulfills all essential safety and environmental requirements as they are defined in the European Directives.

    Sound advice. I thought the Atman 4 ft was damn cheap at just over $400 and with timer some more.... Now I regret!

    How much is the MH u recommend, any 4ft ones with timer? Where to get? :thanks:

  7. Hi all,

    Like to share my experience with this model MH light.

    I bought this Atman MH, I think it's MG D1200 (2x150w) model just 6 months ago in Feb this year.

    Recently, one of the 150w MH 'stopped' working. So I bought a MH light bulb to replace thinking that the bulb has spoilt. However, I find that it wasn't the bulb that was spoilt as when put the supposedly spoilt bulb on the other socket, it worked. Now I am thinking it is the ballast that is spoilt. I also noticed a burned portion at the wire connection near the ballast (see pic).

    Have you guys experienced this? Is it normal for ballast to spoilt so fast? Just six months? I only switch on the MH for about 7 hours in a 24 day. Will the burned wire connection in this MH cause a fire???

    Any advice, pls.... :(

    post-17-1125144553.jpg

  8. Guys,

    Please bid your price and as long as it cross my expectation value, i'll let go. Otherwise, it will be inside my store room until i have the time to start this hobby again. :lol:

    Sales will be close by 25 Aug 2005.

    Cheers,

    R u saying there is a conditon to this bid offer? ie only when "it cross (your) expectation value, (you'll) let go".

    I thot such sales are usually on the basis that the highest bidder at the end of the bid period gets the sales.

    If u wan to go with an "expectation", u might as well just state a starting bid and let bidders go from there...... ;)

  9. Can PM or tell where you buy it at this price? Thank you.

    Likewise. Pls PM me place u got this super bargain.

    I got an orange F. rics for $50....luckily, it splitted after just two weeks...now it's two. :lol:

    Pls PM the LFS u went to for that super deal. :thanks:

  10. :blink:

    Hv a couple of these worms in my tank. I observed that they usually hide in crevices in the LRs and come out at nite - sighted on a few rare occasions. Even saw one of these worms trying to grap my bi-colour blennies - no success though. Blennies was too fast......fortunately. When I fished before, I used these worms (easily gotten on sandy beaches) as baits. ;)

    I sometimes feel a stingy feeling on my finger (index) following re-scaping when I handled the LRs with bare hands. When I ran another finger over the affected finger (spot) it felt like there is a splinter inside but I really can't see anything.......wonder if that could hv been the bristles. Anyway, its kinda painful for awhile but it goes away afterwards.

    I now use gloves when I handled the LRs....esp.ly after I saw one hugh, ugly worm...all 6 inches of it, snaking amoung my LR one nite! :)

  11. Eh Bro,

    Rav-65 leh... dun change nick for me leh... :D

    I dun really have indepth knowledge of crabs, coz I've never really taken a fancy of them, but wat I know is that there's crabs who are harmless that eat algae and detritus, or acro crabs which co-exists with acros harmoniously without damaging the host.

    There are also hairy crabs which attck polyps on SPS and also small fishes. There would be conflicting beliefs here as some reefers believe that only fishes that are weak or dying would be attacked by the crabs.

    Personally, if I ever had an option, I would remove all crabs even if they feed on algae/detritus unless I can positively ID very crab, which can be painstaking and also inaccurate, so no point taking risk in my reef, coz I can never be sure which one is really safe 24/7... :P

    As it is, there are a couple of crabs in my tank which I'm still trying to catch, but they seem to have turned too smart for the chicken bottle trick... :(

    Hence, I have a long-nose hawkfish which I hope can help reed the tank of the small crabs as I try to catch the bigger ones... coz as they grow, it become easier to catch them... :evil:

    Oops ! :paiseh: Must be thinking of changing to a RAV4... :D lol

    :thanks: RAV-65 for the info on the crabs....perhaps I shld try to get rid of those in my tank as well before my yellow goby disappears in the same fashion mentioned by Jaslyn's earlier here. :rolleyes:

  12. Hey guys... dun :off: leh....:P

    This was a pretty clean and informative thread....

    Agree entirely :D

    BACK TO THE TOPIC.....

    Bro RAV4...concerning the crabs in the LRs, are they bad all the times?

    Just wondering cos, I hv spotted a few crabs (kinda hairy and greyish colour about 1cm big) picking on dentritus esp.ly at nite. I guese the concern (if any) similar to that of Jaslyn's would be.....whether they would attack smaller fishes or pick on corals? Do they? :thanks:

  13. Hi Mantis bro, where can i get the 'All Natural Pimafix' medication for fins?

    My fishes seems more stable, as the banner fish is eating off the white spots on their body, but the fins also got teared quite badly, like strands of hairs now, is it because of other infection?

    Hi,

    U can get the Pimafix at most LFS. Go to the LFS list/info under the Weekly Stock Report Forum for more details on these LFS and perhaps call them to check before u go down. Also make sure that u buy the right one and do not overdose n remember to off the skimmer or it will overflow. ;)

    Regarding the torn fins, I can't tell without pictures if your fishes hv succumbed to other diseases. But tis is possible becos their body immune system has gone down and they hv lost their protective slime. Once that happens, they are vulnerable to other bacteria and fungus diseases.

    Observe your fishes carefully to assess their overall state of health. Besides the torn fins, are the fishes eating well? Are the colours returning or do they still appear 'white-washed' and off-coloured, any cloudy eyes, are they still rubbing against sand or rocks and swimming in areas of high current? Do they hyperventilate and appear to be breathing very quickly.

    I hv attached a hyperlink containing information on some comon fish diseases and treatment, for your reference. :)

    FishDiseases

  14. Hi, :rolleyes:

    May I add that it seems u were moving too fast...adding to many fishes too quickly. It takes time for the biological filter to adjust to the bio-load even if the tank is cycled.

    Patience is truely the key to success in this hobby.

    I hv found that the re-creation of that beautiful, well-balanced piece of the ocean in a tank requires lots of time, efforts as well as continuous learning of not only the processes involved in maintaining the tank water at near seawater condition; BUT also the habits and nature of those beautiful creatures we very often introduced into our tank without careful research of their needs and nature. I, for one, am guilty of that as well....but I m learning control. ;)

    Don't lose hope. U were also (may I say) unlucky to encounter the 'evil' ICK so early in this pursue. Might I also add that the Powder Tang is relatively more prone to ICK than other more hardy fishes.

    Try letting the tank cycle a longer period. Now that ICK may hv been introduced into your tank, u may hv to focus on getting rid of the ICK first before introducing fishes. Do some research here on ICK, the life-cycle of the parasites and hyposalination. Get more LRs to help with filtration process.

    I hv attached a hyper-link which provides some basic information on fishes, coral, inverts...etc...U can use this as a database to do some read/research on the fishes u want to get before buying. Some fishes are aggressive, others are not compatible, while some are just too damn difficult to keep in an artificial environment.

    FishyLink

    Good Luck ! :peace:

  15. Agreed w bro Wei....on going for hypo and forget abt med.

    I m a personal fan of Hypo as it has proven to work in my encounter with ICK.

    Hypo and patience to wait out the cycle of the ICK parasites is the way to go to deal with ICK.

    Regarding the fins condition, to repair them I use 'All Natural Pimafix' selling at abt $16 for a 473ml bottle. It treats fungal infections as well as internal and external bac infections. Whenever my new fishes hv fins tears, I used this and it's repaired in a few days. However, the solution activates skimmer vigorously, so u hv to off your skimmer or reduce the bubble for at least a day. Otherwise, skimmate/water will overflow. ;)

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