DottyClown

I feel that even with a refugium and skimmer, you would still want to consider mechanical filtration. If you have biological filter like bio-rings/sphere or similar, you would want to remove/reduce the particle matters that will be going through them, as they could get stuck and clog up the spores on the surface. Then not only will you have waste material building up on your biofilter, the effectiveness of the biofilter will also degrade.

Both are 95%++ full and bought in Jan 2018. I've been feeding my fishes TDO since Day 1, but thought to try Spectrum. End up some fishes won't eat. Then bought the TDO, but wrong size (too small). So, my loss, your gain.... TDO @ $13 New Life @ $10 Take both at $20. Can meet west side. Add $2 and I will deliver to you.

So fast, haha. Do let me know if buyer backs out. I would like to have it. Thanks.

Alamak, didn't see your post earlier. I was just at Irwana looking at their Tangs. Missed the deal.

Thanks ! Are their size very big? Hoping to find a small sized one, and hopefully get it to feed on pellets, in case sand shifted clean till not food left.

Anyone seen any Diamond Back Goby in any of the lfs recently? Thanks in advance

If you are referring to silver bubbles developing from the LR, it could be nitrogen or oxygen bubbles. If its nitrogen, then its ok. But if its oxygen, it could be a precursor to an algae bloom. That's what I was told last time, not sure how correct it is.

I've seen my Tuxedo Urchin going over my zoas several times. No casualty to urchin or other inhabitants of tank.

IMG_9094.mov Video to show more accurate colors.

WYSIWYG. All zoas have been on my frag tray for over a month. Frag A : 4P Dragon Eyes @ $20 Frag B : 11P Dragon Eyes @ $50 Frag C : 8P Dragon Eyes @ $35 Frag D : 7P Flaming Sun + 3P Dragon Eyes @ $45 Frag E : 7P Flaming Sun @ $35 Frag F : 12P Dragon Eyes @ $55 Frag G : 9P **Fire&Ice +2P Dragon Eyes @ $35 (**I bought this from reefer who says its Fire&Ice. But some reefers says it is not. Yes or no, its still pretty.) Golden Cloves : Smaller Frag, 12P+ @ $30, Bigger Frag, 22P+ @ $45 (Note : There may be some algae growth on the frags. No big deal though.) PM me if interested. IMG_9094.mov

Pic not very clear, but looks like a Stomatella, which is good.

Just make sure your LR is resting on the tank bottom/glass, and not on the sand only.

There has been debates on whether UV helps clear Ich, with no definite conclusion. Theoretically, for UV to work (if it works), ALL Ich cryptocaryon must pass through the UV lamp. But consider how much water is being pass through the lamp at any time. The probability that ALL Ich passes through after a definite amount of time is limited, thus not very effective. In addition, only when the cryptocaryon is in its free floating stage, would it have a chance to be pumped through the UV. Also, most UV are sized to kill bacteria and algae spores, not protozoans. Meaning, the size of the crytocaryon is too large to be killed by a standard UV, unless the UV dosage is very high and flow is very low to allow enough exposure time to high UV. But then, there's no harm trying.

Sounds like your tank is infected with Marine Ich. You need to solve this as it may become worst. Usually Tangs are the easiest to get infected. The Ich may have been in your tank there all along, or it may have been introduced together with the Tang. When you see the white spots on the Tang, the Ich is in the trophont stage, feeding on the tang. You would probably see the spots there for maybe 3-7 days, after which it disappears. This does not mean the Ich is gone. The Trophont have simply left the fish to proceed to its next phase of its life-cycle. It will multiply and then "attack" again. Any fish in your tank, irregardless of how long its been in your tank, is susceptible to the attack. There are several approach commonly used to rid a tank of Ich. Some uses medication with fishes still in display tank. Some isolate all fishes into a separate quarantine tank, treat the fishes irregardles if they show signs of Ich, and leave the display tank void of any fishes for several weeks waiting for the Ich to run its life-cyle without host fish and then it will die off. Suggest you do some reading and decide your next move.

Yes, please take pic in normal light, as your pic can't see clearly. But don't think its GSP, as its tentacles end is not "star". My guess is some hairy mushroom.

I think my way of calculation can't be correct. If it is, than almost all tanks would exceed the weight limit.

I am no civil engineer, so I can't say with certainty, but I think you would exceed the weight limit. My noob rough calculations for your consideration. A 5ftx2ft tank footprint is almost 1m2. A 5ftx2ftx2ft tank has a capacity of about 560 liter, which means a water weight of 560kg. So this is already 560kg/m2, and we have still not added in the weight of the display tank, cabinet, sump tank, sump water, chiller,...etc. Suggest you seek professional advice before proceeding.

31-32 is very high temp. if u can post a pic of your tank showing your pump, it would help others better understand your setup. My guess is your pump generating too much heat.

Bro, go through the SRC forum, there are useful postings on how to do a proper cycling. A couple can be found in "New to the Marine Hobby" and topic is "Proper Cycling" by reefer yikai and "Cycling of your new live rocks" by reefer he.

Different reefers have different successful method of dealing with Aiptasia. Some find using Aiptasia-X or Joe's Juice to work for them, while for others (me included) it did not work, and in fact made it worse. Some used Peppermint Shrimps to eat the aiptasia, though there are also reports that their shrimps won't even touch the aiptasia. For me, when aiptasia-x didn't work for me, so I tried the shrimps which cleared some of it. The remaining which for some reason the shrimp won't clear, I simply took the rock out and chip the infested sections away, haha.

You should cycle with the liverocks, just cycling water without any liverocks or biomedia is useless as there is no place to house and grow the necessary bacteria. Did you add a market prawn or similar, to kickstart the cycling? Typical cycling time is 6-8 weeks, but I think can be cut short if you dose bacteria culture. If you periodically test the water during cycling, for nitrite, nitrate, ammonia and such, you will have a better picture of what stage your cycling is at, and if it is ready to add live stock. But if you not going to test the water, then it would be safer to wait out the full 8 weeks before adding any CUC/livestock.

Looks like Aiptasia. It's a pest and can spread like wild fire if handled wrong.

This time round, do cycle the tank properly before adding any livestock and do not add so many livestock all at once. Else it could crash again. Do read up a bit while tank is cycling, don't rush again this time.

Don't be offended bro, but you have gone wrong in so many cases, that I do not know how to begin. Just filling a tank with seawater and live rocks, doesn't mean the tank is automatically habitable to fishes and other livestocks. Just to name a few wrongs. You did not cycle the tank, nor test the water parameters. So for all you know, there are die-offs from the live rocks that is fouling the water. You added so many livestocks all at once. Whatever beneficial bacteria that's in your tank, cannot handle this sudden drastic increase of bio load.. So your livestocks is practically swimming in their own shit&pee, and dying due to stress or maybe even of ammonia poisoning. i would seriously advise you to quickly send the livestocks to a mature tank immediately, either a friend's or ask the lfs to hold for you, while you get the tank condition right, before they all die. Seriously, though they are just fishes, but they are a life too. Please save them before it's too late. Then do read up more on reeling first, to find out what you should have done. There are many articles in this forum that will help you start up correctly.

Let me know ya? I also curious, haha.