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DottyClown

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Posts posted by DottyClown

  1. Usually you want to have the mechanical filter (ie. Filter sponge) in the first chamber before anything else. So it can filter out most of the detritus before it runs through the rest of your system. You can have your bio bricks in first chamber, after your filter.

    If you have your bio-bricks in front, then it will become clogged with detritus very fast.

    Not familiar with WaterBox, but is the water level in the compartments meant to be so high in all compartments?

     

    Noted that you will be using fan for cooling. So you will have significant water level drop daily, which may affect skimmer operations. Might want consider get an ATO to counter that, unless you monitor very frequently.

  2. Increase your water change frequency, % or both. Should clear in few weeks time if current parameters not out too by much. Siphon out as much cyano as possible when changing.

    Else for quicker fix, can consider Red Slime Remover, ChemiClean or similar.

    But do read up on it as different reefers have different experience with it.

  3. The best way is to control your nitrate and increase export of nutrients.  Else add what fish also may not solve algae problem. Don’t forget, fish eats and then poo, means the nutrients are just being circulated in the tank.

    What’s the size of your tank? What method of nutrient export are you using now? Possible to remove LR and scrub the HA away? Combine with a few weeks of major water change, should see results.

  4. The tank maker has a responsibility to solve this issue. Regardless if they made both tank and cabinet, or if cabinet/tank was outsourced to another party.

    Do you know if this is due to uneven cabinet top or badly constructed tank? If tank, then should reject.

  5. Has anyone successfully maintained a display tank with mix of corals and macroalgae?

    Am thinking to include some Sea Lettuce, Caulerpa and/or Dragon Breath  into my softies and lps tank.

    Algaes that won’t spread/propagate everywhere all over the tank but rather grow around a base area, easier control.

    All advice appreciated.

    TIA

  6. This method of water change has been discussed on several sites. The main idea was to do away with back-breaking routine water changes. It was also to promote stability of water condition as it’s doing frequent small water changes instead of single large water change. And it’s all done Automatically by using the Dosing Pump.

    My reservations on this method are (i) what if there is a mismatch of input and output? Over period of time, would it crash the tank or cause an overflow? (ii) Lifetime of Dosing Pump will be shortened, meaning increase cost of operation. Lastly (iii), even if Dosing Pump had replaced 10% volume of water over a period of time, but actually it is not equal to 10% water change, because you are actually removing old and new water everytime it pumps out.

    Above just my personal view.

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  7. I’m not planning to use it to scape/glue pieces of rocks together. Rather, only to stuff it between crevices of a rock, then make a hole in center of the epoxy to hold a frag plug stem.

    So not concern if it cannot bind 2 pcs of rock together. Only concern is if it will contaminate the tank water.

  8. I don’t measure it’s level of Magnesium, Calcium, Potassium and such, so I don’t have those data.

    But I’ve been using it for years for LPS and softies and all are growing fast and fine. I don’t do SPS, thus can’t comment on that.

    I like that the salt dissolves very fast  into a clear mix and I never had issue of “white” precipitate, even if I dump all the salt in very fast.

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