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Bernard

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Posts posted by Bernard

  1. need more input from other reefers first....

    Bernard only keeps hard corals. Only Alvin here had no problems

    was told that the aluminium has problems with soft corals

    But please take note, do not over dose. the aluminium from the product is very small if worry use 50% of the recommended amount. that is what I'm doing.

    I have been trying all the expensive brand and it can't bring down my Po4. so I end up try phosguard and within 2 weeks my Po4 down to zero. without trying it you won't kown the effect but try in small amount and monitor your Po4.

  2. yes .. even seachem website admit that their product release aluminium into the tank. i used to use that product and my coral is doing fine. however it cant achieve desired result.

    using PURA complete after switching from ROWAphos

    Have been using it for close to 2 years liao, no problem.

  3. hi mix power calcium with fresh water, then pour in.

    Has recharger with 5 spoon of new rowa. btw, how long it take to bring down po4 from 0.25ppm to safe level?

    I have try some of the Po4 remover product and found that Seachem Phosguard is the best to help me remove Po4 in my tank. so far been using it for coming to 2 years.

  4. hi perform test again

    with salifert test kit

    Ca out of 500 range

    Mg 1200

    Kh 9.6dkh

    Alk 3.43

    NO3 0

    and test PO4 with sera test kit

    PO4 0.25mg/l

    this happen when I start all this 3 wks ago

    1.after dosing seachem calcium only 1 per week with 2 spoon.

    Dose about 3 times, now stop dosing and then start measuring after getting the measuring kit.

    2. Adding Zonan Two 2 drops everyday

    3. Adding one time 2 spoon of Reef Builder

    Can any of this cause the dieing of bubbles and melting of only one hammer?

    btw, the pearl is OK and others hammer OK.

    Sorry to ask, you means you dose Seachem Ca and Reef Builder powder directly into your tank?

  5. us,Apr 27 2006, 02:50 PM] Some things to note.

    1. You may want to find some transparent blocks to disperse the light. The LED emission is highly focused and the "spotlight" feeling may not be pleasing to you.

    2. You need to waterproof it. The legs of the LEDs may rust if they are exposed to salt sprays. That killed several of my LEDs.

    3. Look for alternatives. Sometimes a simple FL might do the job well, at less cost and effort, but less hands-on fun as well.

    I did my shitty LED here.

    transparent blocks where to get from and how it look like and how you waterproof it ?? Getting intresting and more headache :lol::lol::lol::upsidedown:

    :thanks:

  6. Unless you are using those like handphone charger or built in AC to DC converter, else a normal step down transformer from 240V to 24V - the output is still AC and not DC.

    Sim Lim sells a wide range of AC to DC converter and is not expensive. Probably best to get those AC 240V to 5V DC. You may connect the LED (5V types) directly in parallet to the output then. Those in Sim Lim selling 20 LEDs also do not have resistor connected in series with the LEDs, though it's better to have resistor.

    AC_Adapter_and_AC_Charger_for_PSP.jpg

    In fact, juz buy these type and plug and play is the easiest.

    Usually they have some simple rectifier circuit like this built in;

    http://www.play-hookey.com/ac_theory/ps_rectifiers.html

    :thanks: Thanks will check it out again. :thanks:

  7. what the wizard is telling you .. if you want to run 1 LED with a 24v transformer .. you need a 1.2k Ohm resistor running in series to bring the voltage down (ie V=IR) .. with a 1.2k resistor .. your wattage is 480mW (W=IV) .. so in order to safely dissipate 480mW of heat .. you need at least a 1W resistor (50% increase in tolerance)

    $15 :shock::shock::shock: Just the LED going to cost me 300 over dollar? :shock::shock::shock:

    ok btw. the confusing part is, it said it need 1.2k resistor and then 1w resistor again. So is that means I need to connect both 1.2k and 1w resistors to the LED or either 1 will do? :thanks:

  8. Thank you guy's,

    But the problem is that I have no way to pull out the wiring and redo the whole set up. So now have to make use of the set up.

    I went down to sim lim tower few days ago and was told to use a high wattage 5w resistor with a 3 to 4.5v 10mm LED. when I first connected up everything seem fine. But half an hour later the LED just went out.

    I went to this web site and the result I get is this.

    http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

    24 Source voltage

    3w diode forward voltage

    20 diode forward current (mA)

    1 number of LEDs in your array

    Solution 0: 1 x 1 array uses 1 LEDs exactly

    +24V R = 1200 ohms

    The wizard says: In solution 0:

    each 1200 ohm resistor dissipates 480 mW

    the wizard says the color code for 1200 is brown red red

    the wizard thinks 1W resistors are needed for your application

    together, all resistors dissipate 480 mW

    together, the diodes dissipate 60 mW

    total power dissipated by the array is 540 mW

    the array draws current of 20 mA from the source.

    And now I have no idea what all the numbers above means.

  9. Hi All,

    How can I design an LED array that can be driven effectively from my transformer?

    Need some advise from you guru out here.

    I'm thinking of replacing all my light blub to extra bright white LED but don't know how.

    I'm totally know nothing about electronic stuff and hope that can get some advice here.

    My 24VDC 5w light blub are connected in parallel and the power transformer is 24VDC 500mA. Is there any LED can take the load of my transformer?

    Thanks,

    Bernard

  10. Hi All,

    Need some advise from you guru out here.

    I'm thinking of replacing all my light blub to extra bright white LED but don't know how.

    I'm totally know nothing about electronic stuff and hope that can get some advice here.

    My 24VDC 5w light blub are connected in parallel and the power transformer is 24VDC 500mA. Is there any LED can take the load of my transformer?

    Thanks,

    Bernard

  11. Yes, just follow the circuit diagram and it should be fine.

    Yes also to you LED has a positive and negative, how you identify is that if you observer closely, the LED is round but there is a little flat part, the flat part is the thick black line (the LED symbol), the other way to confirm is to solder wires to the LED then use a 9V (if yours is a 4.5V) then just tap to test if it lights up (of course positive to negative of the battery), in this way, you can confirm the setup.

    Happy DIYing. :rolleyes:

    Thanks great info.

    Now have to figure out how to lay out the LED to make it evenly shine in the tank.

  12. I hope that this helps, this is confirmed after some discussion with a vendor at the electronics shop at Sim Lim Tower.

    The price of the LEDs will drop when you purchase in bulk (30-100pcs for example) but for most of us, 10 LEDs is already a lot (nano or pico tank).

    Happy DIYing.

    MAy I check with you if there's any directional for the resistor and is there any positive and nagative for the LED? Planing to DIY but not sure about electronic. Thanks. :thanks:

  13. i have saw pasir ris fish farm area selling dymax PL from 11watts to 55 watts regardless white , blue or blue white.

    not too sure that whether they are sustainable , meaning still in production .

    As long it can fit into the 6" reflector then I won't have a problem liao. And still in production for a long time.

  14. that's really bad . hate the feeling of wanting to buy something but like no matter how u try to find it also cannot find bacause it's out of production!

    Now I'm facing another problem is, how am I going to get a blub that is blue in colour and about the same size to fit in my Atman MP1000 casing. T5 and 8 can forget it.

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