tineng

thanks bro, look these pieces.....

turn over and flow rate are in someway related, but they are for totally different issues.....for sps you need high flow, lps mid to high and softie maybe low.... for turn over, it usually mean the water movement between sump/filter and the main tank...this really depends on the equipment that you have in your sump....too slow and you might not be able to properly process the junk in the main tank, too fast and you might not have enough time to process the junk that pass through it..... so really, i don't see how increasing the flow rate is compensating the low turnover.... even the topic of flowrate and turn over can be complicated and should not be judge by a single number....point a 800 l/h pump directly at a sps, it will be gone in days....if sps is in a canyon blocking the flow then even a 20000 l/h tunze blowing might also be useless....you shouldn't be too bother by these numerical things, but should instead focus on the condiftion of your corals and how they are affected by the various 'numbers'....

up for you too....but how anyone knows what you have?????

i kanna before becuase water was splashed into the set. Change to new tubes and it work....seems that i was lucky enugh that it did not damage my light set but only the end-tubes... you might want to test it out by swapping the 2 tube with old used tubes that were working and see if it is the tube causing the trips....

dun buy if you don't feel comfortable lor....if the condition is bad because of the catching, all the more you should not buy...as you will not be sure how he trap that guy....also for broken fin, its usually NOT an indication of stress induced by catching, but pretty often points to aggression or worst, disease...while torn fin are quite common when the fish first gets imported and tends to recover if it survice long enough in your tank, a torn fin for an 'establish' fish in hobbylist tank might not be a good sign. Ultimately the decision is yours...if he says he reject other buyer - then in the first place did you reserve and commit to buying no matter the condition???? Just let him know that you would keep your opinion of his fish condition to yourself and not ruin his sale....

you need to show use a closer picture of the monti under normal lights....can't tell much from your parameter and flow....also your SPS pictures if any.... franky 4 T-5 might not be enough lights for sps espicially when you have 2 blue which tends to give a lower par....also from my pass expereince, they type of light set and light tube you used to power the t5 can also make tons of difference.....

did you feel the output of the chiller, the flow strong there??? i know of a few bro that go the connecting hose twisted resulting in too slow a flow into the chilller -> resulting in frequent kicking in.

mushrooms and leather????? seriously not much info to go by....like the length of the tubes, type of tubes, the light set and your water parameters.....some brand of HO tube from china are only a little brighter then your normal FL lights and not much use in supporting the needs of corals. it can be misleading to think that most LPS required little light....my LPS like acans, lobo ....etc while at the bottom part of the tank still requires a signification amount of light in order to maintain bright enough colors....

bro, i tot you already have similar one already......????

its possible but for new sps keeper i suggest you don't try. You need to have rather establish SPS, those that are already growing to certain size and you tank needs certain maturity to handle the additional nutrient load. No matter how well feed, the angels will occaisionally take a nip at the SPS, so if they are not strong and healthy to begin with, they can't take the stress. They will slime and then the angel take some more nip, then they slime more and more nip.....you get the picture..... but if you really insist, you can try your luck, but a few things to suggest. 1) make sure the angels are really really agressively feeding. 2) make sure that agression among the fishes are not so that some of the angels cannot get a chance to feed during feeding time. I had a supposingly reef safe shallowtail angel fish before, but becuase kenna wack by tangs and have not chance to feed, takes to nipping at pocci....lucky its big enough to take the stress 3) you might want to get adult angel. so far my expereince with the juv. are that they tend to develop a taste of SPS after sometime. 4) be confident that you can catch them out if need be hope its helps and good luck

yes....you willl need CO2 to lower the PH within the CR...the lowered PH will in turn slowly 'melt' the media thus releasing carbonate and calcium in your tank

looks ok to me....when i first started i had a normal 2 footer feed directly to the chiller then back to the tank this way (run for about 2 year).....just make sure that the output in not too near the input of the pump as it might cause the water to be recirculated back to the chiller instead of returning to the tank.... one possiblitiy is a dip in chiller as you would not require a pump then....but your iso might not be big enough for the coil....

CR is not neccessary the domain of SPS keeper. As long as there is a carbonate and calcium requirements in your tank, CR is a good equipment to have to keep these parameters stable. Some of the owners of LPS tanks has been using CR for years to cut down on the need to having to keep dosing thier tank.... from what i am see in your list of LS, its hard to tell your requirements, your 4 clams might be gowing fast and sucking in calcium or you might have giant LPS in your tank.... :D .....a better gauge is to really monitor your tank's consumption and see how much you are dosing on a daily or weekly to determine if you ever need a CR.....there are reefers i know who dose every morning and evening and still don't want to get a CR.....for me its the dosing once every 2 days that makes me decided to get a CR......view CR more as a 'semi-automated' tool to keep your water parameter stable and with less work rather then a must have....

test strip???? you are using Tera test strip.....those are highly inaccurate. You might want to get the more reliable ones before plotting your next course of action....if your testing was wrong, then you might actaully end up overcorrecting and create problem.... personally i recommend the use of a PH test Pen instead of any PH test kit. for CA and KH, i normally use Salifert....had use Sera in my newbie days, but discovered that i have to test it 2 or 3 times as even with the same test kit, somehow results not very consistent....

err....bro, you sure you rescape? how come still looks the same..... :D

yes. Look at the way SPS grows...it would definately suck up more calcium and carbonate then any other corals. Clams do take up nitrate, but to depend on them to control nitrate might not be practical. i know in the early days there are reefers with 'clam' sump, but didn't quite pull down nitrate that much.....even i have 8 large clams before and i did not notice any significant pull down in NO3 over time. I would suggest instead to depend on more tradditional methods to keep nitrate down: - Deep sand bed - Refug - Berlin method with support strong skimmer - Zeovit - even sugar/volka.... :D with correct application, any of the above should work nicely....no need to try anything fanciful.

my main chiller is the aircon compressor type. It depend on the temp probe of my aquatronic....unfortuntately, the temp probe shows about 2-5 degree above the actual temperature resulting in the system thinking the water is not cold enough lor..... i have planned for temp prob failure, because in that situation the backup chiller with its own seperate external temp controller willl kick in.....however, never expected that temp prob can give false reading....

hahaha...i have 2 chillers....so one would take over if the other fail......but then my temp probe spoilt....end up still drive my tank temp down to 20 degree......

i use to do QT with just bare tank, a simple hangon skimmer and hangon filter....the trick is to 'prefill' your hangon filter with bacteria by putting it in your main tank a couple of weeks in advance....also prepare lots of clean seawater....everyday, just take about 1-2 gallon of water from your main tank and fill it into your QT. then replace the water you took from your main tank with your newly prepare water....quite a hassle.... for me the idea of a QT is so that newly added fish would not contaimate my main tank....but now i found a better method....work with a trusted LFS and let him QT for you lor.... :D ....pay a little more premier for the fish and save tons of hassles....

if i am not wrong, thats a loripes....you will need strong lights to go with it....

more like 5 tech dude and 1 marketing dude....they don't seems to know what the market needs..... :D for me the dimmable module sounds attractive, but the fact is that dimmable lights are so much more expensive then their non-dimmable version.....also my tunzes is alreadt connected to my multi-controller....that's why feature like that kind of useless to me.....so decided to save a little more $$$ and spend them on fish instead....

S$28k????? :ooh: :ooh:

yeah....truthfully aquatronica is kind of slow in the add ons department.....i gotten it because its cheaper and i did not have intention to go for the other bell and whistle that IKS offers......unfortunately, have to wait till Jan for a replacement temp probe........lucky i still have my old temp controller to use with the chiller if not.....:mad:

dun think crabs would kill fishes that are well and alive....more likely, its the fishes dying of other things and the crabs simply feed on the dead body. You might want to check out how you have set up your tank..... btw, Sweetlip can grow to a very very huge size hor (more then 2 feet)...so you are looking at least a 5 footer tank...finally, you might want to check out its adult coloration....its looks more like something you put on the dinning table then in a display tank.... :D

Yeah yeah yeah...you win....at the bit level RS232 is better then USB.....but a 0.03MB/s vs 12 mb/s rate???? USB can make 100 times more error count then RS232....the onboard chip is definately more then capable of making the necessary correction.... maybe if you are running your tank in a high interference environment, it makes more sense to have a interface like RS232??? but our tank???i think that is highly unlikely.... (PS: the argument is really about RS232 vs USB.....but not really about IKS and aquatronica, there are a whole lot of issues to consider other then just the interface..... )