nim75sg

Lim Chye Huat .... No wonder your denitrator is not working as your output is not trickle back to the sump. Either you use a control valve or purchase a Dosing pump from AquaMart but it will cost you about $200+. For a pic of the dosing pump, please refer to my thread in the Members Tank & Specs Section. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...pic=21005&st=30 Here is a pic of the control valve which I am using for my coil Denitrator:

Denitrification refers to the third step of the nitrogen cycle Most of us are aware that biological filtration converts ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrate via aerobic bacteria. Although Nitrates is not particularly harmful to fish, plants or invertebrates, it poses a threat by unwanted algae growth. In extreme high levels of Nitrates, it can affect the overall health of your tank and inhabitants which can leads to a "tank crash". Nitrates are left behind in most aquariums because the bacteria necessary to remove them are anaerobic, meaning 'oxygen phobic'. Since the aquarium water is well oxygenated, as is your wet/dry, undergravel filter or other biological filter system, these special bacteria do not grow. Therefore, a special filtration device is needed which is the denitrator must be O2 free where this is the 3rd stage of the nitrogen cycle which denitrification always refers to.

Absolutely correct .. plain flavour volka (no additives) and sugar are feeds only for coil denitrator only. AquaMedic Denitrator uses denimar powder or deniballs.

It helps to shift the sand especially the Golden Head Goby otherwise you got to do it manually occasionally

Deniballs are made from a special biological based plastic material where in the absence of oxygen, the anaerobic bacteria metabolize this material which reduce nitrate to nitrogen gas. In short, it is a filter medium and bacterium food for the denitrator. However, Deniballs doesn't come inexpensive and it will burn your pocket. But it worth every $ as it lasts 12 months or more depending on the tank bio-load. Another alternative is to use denimar which is a nutrient powder contains organic substances disolving slowly in water and are "eaten" by the bacteria. Setback is that you have to dose your denitrator daily. Denimar is less costly than Deniballs ..

The coil denitrator servicing the "old" 6ft tank took about 8 weeks to break-in since it is an established tank when I installed it with 25% water change prior to installation of the denitrator due to high Nitrate level. Whereas for the "new" 6ft tank, the AquaMedic took about 5 weeks to kick-in since it started as a new setup. Hasn't do any partial water changes for 3 months liao.

Never encountered this problem as I am using a Dosing Pump for my AquaMedic Denitrator. Did encountered this for the coil denitrator as I am using a valve to control the drip rate. This "stoppage" is usually from the pump deteriorating in performance .. just cleaned the pump impeller and it should solve this "stoppage".

Since you add live sand as your DSB then why should it goes "Rotten" in a few weeks. Have you turn on the skimmer? If not, you can do it now. If the water parameters are ok then you can place one or two livestocks ie goby

Either use a dosing pump or connect a airline valve in your outflow tube. Here is a pic:

My experience with Denitrator is both sour and sweet for both of my 6ft tanks due to my hatred in doing partial water changes. Would rather spend my time admiring my corals and livestocks. Sour because of the hassle of tuning the unit a coil denitrator which can be a pain in the neck during the "break-in" period of about 2 months for a well-stocked tank. Tuning is to ensure the right amount of drips. In addition, the weekly feeding to the unit to ensure that the bacteria are breaking down the nitrates effectively. Without feeding it still works but not as effective. But once the coil denitrator is mature .. it just rock and roll with weekly feeding only. With this success, the sweet experience is from the Nitratreductor 1000 from AquaMedic for the other 6ft tank which includes the dosing pump that provides the right drip rate. So no tuning is need .. what a relief. Moreover, no feeding is needed if you place deniballs for the bacteria to feed. Only replace them when the white deniballs "disappear" visually from the unit. This equipment is idiot proof ie just plug and play! So do we need to have partial water changes? Personally, if you ensure proper balance of all trace elements in the aquarium then it is not necessary afterall having partial water changes is to replace "lost" trace elements, right? But if you are uncomfortable, just do it every few months rather than weekly, fortnitely or monthly. My 20cts today ...

Thanks for the info regarding PM & Koralin ... Kam Siah ...

I am using one but it takes about 6 to 8 months for it to be effective and even longer if your current nitrate level is high. The setback about this coil denitrator is that you need to "feed" the bacteria on a weekly basis either with Vodka or sugar. Because of this feeding, I purchased the AquaMedic De-nitrator for another 6ft tank which don't requires any feeding due to the deniballs. Here is the link of the coil denitrator: http://www.aquaripure.com

Already a current user of Deltec products in terms of T5 80W lighting, FR, Skimmer and CR too for one of my 6ft tanks. Evaluating a PM or Koralin CR only for existing quarantine tank

Maxima, PM me the pricing for the complete setup ....

Any reefer has any street smart experience on this CR?

Interested in the BioHome Red ... PM me the price and the weight as well ie 500g or 1 kg

Never changed mine for 2 years liao and still as good ie BioHome didn't disintegrate nor do I add any additional pellets. Are the pellets still working after all these years? Yes, definitely as the Ammonia & Nitrite are at zero levels reading and this are the BioHome Red (with nutrients) type.

Brother .... you're definitely in good hands.

For a 3ft tank ... the tolerable qty is four and suggest the following: 1) Powder Blue or Achilles Tang 2) Powder Brown 3) Naso 4) Sohal or Kole

Fyi, the Resun FBF is actually a Fluidized Bed Filter and with the addition of the "mod kit", it becomes a Fluidized Reactor. Here is the link regarding the Resun FBF's review with pics and the "mod kit". http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142487

Bro Bought the AM gear because the distributor is committed to their trade as they have stock of the various equipment and most important ... provides 12 months! Most comfortable spending my dollars to vendors who're committed to the industry and certainly explore other vendors if they do carry stock too. Currently in planning process for my next project around December for one of my existing 6ft tank who is currently "filter" by four (4) cannisters for 2 yrs and it's overdue for an upgrade.

With those equipment, I can have more time to admire my "pets" after a day work rather than a slave to the tank...

Bro .. you're spot-on the target for all the below equipment a) Tank & Cabinet (Chenai) Deltec T5 80W Retrofit Kit x 2 c) American PinPoint pH & Temperature Monitor d) George Fischer Piping e) Daeil Chiller f) Tubby g) UV Sterilizer h) Deltec FR i) Lunar Tracker + 10 Leds j) 4 x Ocean Runner Pumps (2xOR6500, 1xOR3500,1xOR2500) k) 2 x Dosing Pump SP3000 l) Nitratreductor 1000 with Deniball m) Protein Skimmer Turboflotor 5000 Shorty n) Kalk Reactor

Gary .... you're welcome for a visit to my place anytime!

Alot of $$$ for a system which needs little maintenance leaving you alot of time admiring the setup ie not a slave to the tank. How much do you think I was poorer?