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shaunchan

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Posts posted by shaunchan

  1. Question for people running GFO (either via media bag or reactor):

    Once you see that Phosphate levels are in the desirable range, what do you do next?
    Do you stop running GFO completely (which will make the levels rise in a week), or leave it running (which will probably drive the levels even lower)?

    My query is how do you maintain phosphate levels?

  2. Locally cultured and freshly harvested Phytoplankton for sale.

    Fantastic to use on clams, soft corals, and even to keep your copepod population thriving. 

    350ml bottle for S$6.
    Self collection in Holland Village area, or +$5 for islandwide delivery.

    Phyto strain: Tetraselmis

    PM for more information.

  3. Locally cultured and freshly harvested Phytoplankton for sale.

    350ml bottle for S$6.
    Self collection in Holland Village area, or +$5 for islandwide delivery.

    Phyto strain: Tetraselmis

    PM for more information.

    ----

    Phytoplankton are an abundant food source for many clams (and other bivalves), soft corals, sponges and zooplankton like copepods. In the home marine aquarium, however, phytoplankton are generally not present. Those aquarists in favor of dosing phytoplankton, therefore, are attempting to provide this natural food source to the invertebrates in their tanks. 

     

  4. Selling a beautiful Elegance Coral from my tank. More information below: 

    • Species: Catalaphyllia jardinei
    • Common Name: Elegance Coral
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Color:
      • Daylight: Mostly beige/pink, with white tipped tentacles.
      • Actinic: Jade green
    • Water Params: 
      • Salinity: 1.025
      • Temp: 26 - 27c
      • Alk / Cal / Mg: Not fussy as long as stable.
    • Size: 
      • ~21cm wide (fully opened)
      • ~12cm high (fully opened)
    • Temperament: Non aggressive. Peaceful with small fish, crustaceans and inverts
    • Number of mouths: >6
    • Diet: Mostly photosynthetic. Weekly frozen Mysis and plankton
    • Characteristics: Acclimated to a medium flow area with medium/high lighting. Exceptionally graceful, long tentacles gives the aqua-scape a lot of motion within the tank.
    • Reason for sale: Outgrown my 50g tank. I think her beauty needs to be displayed in a more appropriate environment.

    The Images portray the actual specimen. (WYSIWYG)

    Price: S$90.00.

    I am located in Holland Village area.

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  5. I have the same problems. Losing my fish every other week because of ich. (or at least thats what I suspect)

    Been adding garlic to their food, in the hope of trying to strengthen their system to get over the disease. Also try to feed them a little more, making sure they eat. So far - all the surviving live stock are the ones that are eating heavily. 

    Then I came across Polyp Lab Medic. Had good reviews on YouTube, so I decided to invest in a bottle. Wasn't cheap - about $60 in Singapore. You have to does twice a day when the lights are off.

    Note that this DOES NOT get rid of ich already on the fish, but will kill those that are dormant on the rocks and sand. Keep dosing daily for up to 17-20 days. I've already done this for a week, and I can see 'some' improvements. My fish deaths has stopped, and the fellas seem happier. They still have white spots, so I'll have to hope they fall off naturally. 

    Anybody has other ideas to combat Ich, please share.
    QT is sometimes not an option for alot of people because of Space, Spouse or Spondoolies. :) 

  6. I'm using a Hailea 1/10 chiller for my Reefer 170. The noise is very much like an AC compressor - it comes on when the temp goes too high, and shuts off when it's within specified ranges.

    It's not that loud, but noticeable, especially if your home is very quiet.
    I have mine in the living room. When there are people around, or when the TV is on, you will not hear it. But at night, it tends to be quite clear if you pay attention to it.

    Thinking of upgrading to Arctica later.

  7. On 8/27/2018 at 6:56 PM, thanos said:

    Good idea,btw how long can the filter last?

    Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
     

    The sediment & carbon filters can generally last for 6 months. The membrane - probably 2 years (they say). Then finally, the DI resin lifespan will depend on the quality of all the filters before it. A few months, maybe.

    Fortunately, all these can be easily and affordably replaced. 

    just do a TDS check after every batch of water made. If it's no longer 0, it's time to change your filter(s).

  8. As you know, there are lots of scenarios when you are required to take some water out of your tank:

    • Acclimating fish/corals
    • Coral dipping and rinsing
    • water chemistry testing

    My question is - these activities cause the overall water level to dip, thus requiring our Auto Top Off to kick in - which, in turn, results in lowering the salinity.

    Is this not a problem?

    To me, this seems like an obvious issue, but no one seem to be talking about it. Am I worrying for nothing? 

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