kareen

not very sure... could it be the big kind of blastos?

ya.. Will the TDS shows in KH reading?

ok.

ya.. agree with neokn. I have see few instances green button zoos eat loose bits of grape algae in my tank that happen to catch. And also the brittle worms that happen to fall off from that little bunch of algae transferred from sump to tank.... PS: good feng shui place...

Hi! Sorry too engross in other threads that I miss out this.... Yes, there are many... search this forum will give u the answer liao. I do have common sunnies in my tank but not the super sun.... I heard that super suns are much easier than the common ones. To be frank, although I can get the my sunnies opened real big (full polys extention), I do not have the confident that they will survive in my tank over a long period of time. I can see some white skirting in between the polys which was not there before.. I think some parts of the sunnies did not get enough of the food due to the facing. I am doing my best to see whether they can recover or not.... IMO, atpisia do not progate that fast if only you leave them alone. They grow bigger over time but will not reproduce. Many times, I believe the reefers knows it's bad and try to kill them and end up having more and more. Also, one thing I wish to highlight is that the stinking of atpisia will not kill a coral overnight but those unnatural method will if care are not exercise.... I have kept 2 to 3 copperband before, I have not observed pecking on zoos apart from few occassion when something happen to be there... Copperband is actually helping you to clear the parasites.... I do see few occassions that my blue tang attack on zoos instead of copperband.... Personal preferences perhaps.... I do not mind having some of those to keep things in tact. That's why I bought a copperband and sixlines.

It's true that chiller will get choke over time in our reef tank... especially a well establish one with tons of little critters. I suspect the inefficiency may be due to this and hence I will give it a flush with flesh water and vingear for a week or two and see how things progress from there...

The only bad things I see is the initial outlay to fork out, a alien looking coil in sump and possibly an ugly spot that host that huge guy (bigger than convention I mean) .... Other than that I think yours beats in terms of noises level, reliability (most of the time resting) and cost in a very, very, very long term.

I have some probes on the figure if you don't mind.... Is the cloth clean to start off? Or it has been clog with dirts already when u take measurement? It may be wise to : - do one without - one with a clean cloth - one with dirty cloth tie to it Maybe there is some interesting findings.... PS: what and how to take TDS? Can show a little bit or not.... Your figure make me worry my health leh....

Hi! I have heard that u kept logs... but I'm still "WOW!" I admit I am not that detail... BUT I do know that all in all my tank cost me roughly below $30 monthly in bill on average..... I have do a cal on the figures on paper and compare to before and after situation to have a certain level of confident.... but don't tell me to list down the details... I think more of my hair will grow white....heehehehe It's true that your situation is different when you have the dip-in coil (Aha! starmax user I believe) When pump run 24/7, ones has to be extremely wary about the running cost. I overcome it thru' having the chiller and return tied together.... How's that? Now, I can see that your situation is very much different... Hence, cannot compare.

Hi! As I have no means of taking the TDS... could u do me a favour just to satisfy my curiousity? What I would like to find out is : What is the TDS reading when there is a simple filter in your tap.... This simple filter is simply like the old times when your mama wrap a piece of cloth around the tap that do the cooking. If you have no idea what is it then go to provision shop and look around. I believe they are available cheaply. When u first wrap the tap, let the tap runs for a minute before collecting sample to test the TDS.... Your effort is much appreciated.

Could u describe the warning a little bit more? I don't understand... the calculation here is based on ambient/desired temperature and individual loads.... Or is it something in this threads that does not make sense to you? Do not get me wrong, I just wana know is there any misconception in my understanding... only thru' questions and answers that deepen the understanding. Oh ya, I will like to bring out a point about the chiller temperature. The reason why the calculation stop at about 27 degree is that I see no further benefits to it anymore... The greater the differences between ambient and desired tank temperature, the greater the shock will be when there is a breakout. U think it is rare? Or u have some backup measures? Wouldn't it be simpler just to make the differences lesser to cushion for such instances?

Well, my MH is turned on for 6 hours daily and when this happen, I notice that the chiller will have to kick in an hour and rest an hour and kick in an hour, etc. I would think that from your quote of 20 min ON / 120 min OFF is your worst case and thereby this roughly equal to about 1 or 2 times of kick in rate if MH for 6 hours duration. Therefore is the differences a lot? That's why I am confident it should be less than $5/mth electric bill if the kick in surge is so demanding (which I never measure but guess this thru reasoning) ....

For this part, one must know the tolerance level when doing the sizing calculation. This should take care of the hot days.

In your opinion, worst case of 1 hr work and 1 hr rest is not good? Hm... I thought it was okay.... As for yours, I think it is a bit lax 'cos 20/120 min equal 17% only.... Imagine u pay someone to work only 17% of time... It's like overpaying that guy. PS: Why I say is okay is b'cos the worst case last only 6 hours for my case. This roughly translate to kick in 3 times at most... when compare to 1 or 2 times of yours... See my point here?

Just attach a calculation from jbj to show I didn't guess the hp for a 5 footer... Whether acceptable or not is up to one decision. PS: I input 600W of lightings with ventilation....

which brand better? I am using phoeix brand.... I do not know how good or how long it can last.... appreciate some advise. Thanks.

Hi William! Nice to hear from you.... I have read your tank thread before.. very nice. I am no expert as well... please do correct me when I am wrong. I welcome all comments 'cos only then I will learn. My question is that : what make you think that having less than 1:1 ratio is better? The advantage I see at the moment is more rest time for chiller. I will be paying probably the same amount of electrical bill. I do not think the startup surge will be significant enough to more than $5 under normal condition ratio of kick in. But purchasing a higher hp chiller cost more upfront by a certain amount of a few hundreds.... er... do u need me describe further from here?

The key here is to find out - how long it takes to cool your tank temp by 1 degree - how long it takes to kick in All these is closely couple with equipments and surrounding... Roughly the jbj website will give a spec that their chiller is capable of working.... probably about 60% duty cycle (or more I don't know). I played with the paramenters to find out how much it takes to rolled to the next level... Take note of those numbers is the key to know what is the tolerance level.

if u think this way then drinking RO water = clean water. Then supplement with all the healthy food should be sufficient...

Found southpaw old sales thread.... it is a 1/5hp chiller.

yeah... I wish to point out that think of family members health first before the fish when it is of concern lah... Otherwise, it is a bit er.... I don't know what to say....

Just for your references.... open top tank : 2 * 150w MH + 27w PL 1 20w flourscent to cover some darker area 1 m820 1 koralia 1 1 5w pump just to cover a small area of dead spot 1 1262 ehiem for return ###### chiller 1 auqabee 3000x for skimmer Southpaw, what is the chiller that I bought from you? can't remember the hp liao... worst case MH on, it is chiller on 1 hour and off 1 hour.... roughly about 50% cycle time.. tank temp swing between 27.5 to 28.5. PS: tank is at balcony.

I can't really comprehen your saying of "More flow, more particles"... Do u mean when a pump aimed at the sandbed? That's why I advise to pay good attention how each wavewaker and pump head should be directed to obtain a slightly uplifting movement to carry the particles and food around the tank and yet still obtain some flow at the bottom level. A tip on stacking filter floss is that I put a small egg crate in between each layers to prevent overflowing. Also, please do take note that a finer filter floss has greater danger of overflowing. Please do your own judgement as in how to achieve else I will be quoted as guilty...

I did a nitrate test on my tap, register a nil. As for phosphate and silicate, I will think it is almost a nil though I did not test it. The reason is that Singapore has water treatment and maybe we are drinking RO water now.... Anyway, phosphate and silicate are introduced via all the foods that we throw in... having RO water will not help the situation unless one can invent a food without that in. As for copper, we have been eduacate in many websites that it is harmful... but many times when I picked up additives and read the compounds, there is copper in it even on TM reef pro saltmix have copper as one of the trace elements... Somehow, I reason that low content of copper should be okay... I am writing this is b'cos when ones is so concerned about it then it may be worth the while to install a RO filter for your whole family first and then the fish

I didn't ask him to get a quater chiller... I told him to calculate his load first... Then I say under normal condition which means with $$$ mind... If one has that in mind, one will optimise his system and thereby a quater chiller should be enough. I did it with a lower hp than a quater. With MH on, the chiller kick about an hour and without MH, it kicks in more than an hour later (possibly 2 to 3, I didn't time exactly).... PS: My tank temperature is about 27.5 to 28.5.