mhcraft
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Posts posted by mhcraft
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Leather Coral Reserved
Left with
1. Medium Serpent Starfish (see pict) - 1 stripe of 5 yakults
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No longer available
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Got these when i bought a second hand tank from an awesome reefer. I have too many livestock in my current tank so giving them away to a new home. All i ask is some Yakult for the trouble that I went to migrate these
1. Medium Serpent Starfish (see pict) - 1 stripe of 5 yakults
2. Finger Leather Coral (see pict) - 3 stripe of 5 yakults
Collection @ Dairy Farm Road area.
I will put them in a zip lock bag for easy collection
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Selling my 6 months old Seneye Reef as I am no longer using it
Also selling the Intel Compute Stick which you can use as a server for your Seneye Reef, instead of buying their wifi bundle..
Seneye Reef - 200
Compute Stick - 50
Bundle 240
Keen, PM me.
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Brand new - just opened to check but basically received today from Amazon.
Selling at cost price which is 280.
RFS: Bought the wrong one - did not account for the mount.
Fixed!
Not local set..from Amazon US!
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Very nice tank setup! Will camp for more
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All
Quick update:
My tank has stablized nicely in the last few days and I am not sure what i did…diatoms and algae problems are gone and most importantly, pH swing has been minimal and stable. The stuffs I have done:
1. Had Phosguard in my bag in one of my evo chamber for 2 weeks now
2. Dose nopox everyday
My phos and nitrate is now double zeros which is bad as well so I need to figure out how to fix that….however my conclusions are:
1. Nopox helped with my diatoms & algae problems. This could explain my ph reacting very badly as my level was 10mg and now it is zero…i suspect it is nopox doing its job thus impacting the ph
2. In turn, since not much happening on the nitrogen cycle since it is zero, pH remained stable
My immediate aim now is to try to get out of the double zeros scenarios..not sure how yet….
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2 hours ago, SubzeroLT said:
Its important not to let either nitrates or phosphates hit 0ppm for prolonged period as the imbalance can trigger dinoflagellates which is much harder to resolve. For phosphate resins, its best to put it in a reactor where you can tune the flow rate depending on the requirements.
Lighting period. What kind of corals do you have in there? When you say 8 or 12hr lighting period, how much of it is strong lighting? How long is blue light? Typically a 4-5hr bright lighting is sufficient. But again, it really depends on your coral type. Its best to get a PAR measurement to take away guess work.
Regarding pH. You do need covers else the clownfish will jump out. You can try lifting the cover a tiny bit just to allow more air exchange. My suspicion is the pH is inaccurate. What kind of meter are you using?
Thanks for the advice.
Yea mine is fluval evo so cant afford a reactor. I just place it in the chamber next to my pump so the flow should be good. I think i might remove the bag if tested zero again. Thats my worry as I read alot about the issues with double zero.
i just have xenia and another easy coral (cant recall name) so lighting not important i guess. The issue is I am using stock so its either white (full power I guess) or blue and I have to manually adjust...maybe time to upgrade to AI Prime..sigh, more $$ again.
For PH, it is Seney Reef. I just recalibrated and it missed by 0.1 so it is considerably accurate...any other advise? I thought of removing the top and put a nett but then need upgrade my lights...
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Hi Fellow Reefers,
It has been almost 2 months since i started cycling my tank. Some quick update:
1. I have been hit with diatoms & green algae. Taking advise from fellow bros, i started introducing phosguard into my chamber and have just started dosing reasea nopox. My phos has since went down to zero (i dont have accurate measurement, using salfert) and I have not measure my nitrate yet (was 10 ppm).
2. To deal with algea, i reduced my lighting schedule. I was doing 12 hours and I realize it was too long so i reduced it to 8 hours (using standard fluval evo lights - not sure if it matters or different lights can help with algae management?)
3. I am still struggling with my PH and it seems to get worst since i did point 1 & 2. I am planning to recalibrate my PH meter, just to be sure (calibrated 3 weeks ago) but I couldn't even reach 8.0 now...it is doing about 7.6 to 7.9 which is very bad. I have also been dosing my tank with kalk via ATO (dKH is around 7) - it helps a bit but feels like losing battle.
Need advise:
1. One thing i think i can do better is the placement of my tank. Right now, it is on top my shoe cabinet, next to my main door. The airflow is kinda limited there (I have the standard fluval ps2 skimmer running 24/7) plus my chiller is just next to the tank (not sure if this makes CO2 worst)
2. I have wavemaker agitating the water surface in the attempt to stimulate gas exchange but not sure if it is helping. I have my standard fluval cover - not sure if that would prevent proper gas exchange?
Pictures:
PH Levels in past week
Tank Photo - changed to bluelight for better picture - as you can see, Seneye is not very happy with my ph
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So far the BTA doing well...yea the nero 3 comes with a guard and I have installed it...was very nervous about it.
Yea i bought additional ca and mg test kits...this hobby not cheap XD
Whats wrong with my lighting? I have seen a lot ppl changing the stock fuval lights
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Thanks everyone. Lots of information here so it is a very good topic and lots of digest.
Just a quick update
1. The two clowns are doing very well. Diatoms are somewhat stabilizing with weekly water change however I took advise by a fellow reefer to introduce phosguard and i will report back if that further reduces diatoms in my tank
2. I proceeded to add my first anemone as I am very keen to see my clowns hosting the anemone (that's the reason i bought the anemone anyway). The rose bubbletip anemone is doing well...opening up in the day and closing up at night. Sometimes it hides under the rock but sometimes it comes up - did a lot of reading and that seems normal so i leave it alone however i must say i am a bit worried about adding coral until it fully settles down.
3. My main issue now remains to be PH as it drops to levels that i feel critical - the swing between day & night is huge (i read that this is due to photosynthesis but i don't have any corals in my tank so I am confused) but more importantly, it is heading downwards. I left it to my ATO to top up the kalk (my DKH is still not too bad about 8 DKH) as one reefer pointed out, I am conscious that nothing is consuming the alk but again very worrying about my PH levels & swing. Right now it is about 0.3 swing with the lowest is at 7.6!
- Any advise? I am thinking to start adding some basic corals to help with photosynthesis & dkh consuming. I attached my seneye dashboard - i just recalibrated my PH meter a week ago but will do it again to make sure it is still accurate.
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Yea...best is buy another PH meter and get some calibration liquid to make sure. Don't worry about the PH now - after extensive research and going it through myself, once cycling is done and your bacteria brought down your ammonia levels, PH will rise. The other thing i learn is that to ensure there are sufficient water flow as that would also help increase the O2 level which helps with PH levels as well.
Yea - i went to SAS and they recommended 7...the fact that 2 of them died a couple days later, i don't think its related to food...maybe i didn't go a good job acclimating them (although i did for 30 mins and mixed the water).
As you can see in the picture, diatoms are also growing so pretty sure sufficient food. I just need to see how to deal with diatoms and will feedback. Most posts are saying to be patient as it is normal for new tanks but some are recommending to remove phosphate or use vibrant to kill it...for now i am not doing anything and will monitor further
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Quick update:
After about 5 weeks since I started cycle, my parameters became solid (had to be very patient)
I have since added two clownfishes and 7 snails (although 2 died a couple days after) despite I was being very patient acclimating them - not sure why.
Overall parameters are good after a week although my sand are turning brownish (read some articles and it seems nothing much I can do for now). I also did set up my ATO with kalk just to make sure my PH dont drop too much but it has pretty much been steady at 7.9 - 8.
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5 hours ago, PulposTriste said:
Ph is fine for now, it gets important once you put corals and lifestock in.
You can try to increase the amount of food and add more bacteria (it's ok to overdose most bacteria product, just don't over do it lol)
But really you just have to wait it out. Patience bro.
Despite what people say, nitrate is not that big of an issue
If anything it's bad if your tank is too clean, a bit of nitrate is what your coral needs for food.
What you really want to keep close to zero is phosphate/silicate. Use Granular Ferric Oxide (GFO) to keep the levels low.
Try to avoid any aluminium based phosphate removers, they have a whitish appearance.
As for cheato, in my opinion, not necessary for a tank that size.
If you really want you can try macroalgae of the genus caulerpa. Those imo are more effective them cheato and can grow in your display, but depends on your aesthetic.
Thanks for the suggestion bro. I will ignore the PH levels for now..the ammonia is steadily reducing..perhaps not at a pace i am hoping for but I will be patient as many bros advised.
Thanks for the confirmation on nitrate as well. There are just too many information / views out there. I just want to make sure i have a good start so my life will be easier down the road...many thanks
1 hour ago, R0B said:Patience. Your levels are as should be expected.. take your time and all will be well. Your tank is starting to build up the necessary bacteria it needs to sustain life.. although you may need to give it a nudge in the right direction.
Tools like GFO do a good job of controlling phosphate, possibly too good, as they are rather strong chemicals that not only bind with phosphate but also other important trace elements. The issue is that Nitrates and Phosphates are not horrible poisons that need to avoided at all cost, but rather nutrients that corals need to stay healthy, and should be managed accordingly. As such I would suggest you use the GFO very lightly (if at all), and utilise water changes instead correct any future imbalance. But there are other courses of action you can investigate and potentially take...
Regarding macroalgea... whilst this is a more natural way that targets both nitrate and phosphate, it would be difficult to sustain enough macroalgae given the small amount of nitrates your tank will produce.
So what to do and why are your phosphates high? Well at this stage it's due to biology, more specifically the polyphosphate accumulating bacteria and the sulfate-reducing bacteria are dominating. As they compete with other biological denitrifiers (under certain circumstances) they release phosphate, hence, your elevated levels. What you may want to look into is the likes of Tropic Marin's NP series of carbon dosing. These products promote the correct biological adaptations in your tank. Tropic Marin have a range of dosing liquids that are blended for different phosphate levels, promoting heterotrophic bacteria. In your case, their 'elimi NP' can be used if you have high concentration of phosphate. More is explained here
It's all about biology... give it time and the good bacteria will win out (if you let them). Good luck. Sounds like you are on a good path.
Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
Yep..sounds like i need to be patient. Been 3 weeks but the levels are reducing. I will dose the microbacter again tomorrow just to give it a nudge
My plan is to get a pair of clowns first and once that stabilize, i will start looking at corals..what i noticed as well as i need to buy at least two test kits of everything, even PH and temps...as my seneye is not as accurate as i hope for.
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Hi Fellow Reefers,
Firstly, want to thank everyone as i have been reading a bunch of discussions and it has been extremely helpful however I do need some help
I've been cycling my new tank for a week plus but have not necessarily seen the progress so figure to validate with everyone
Tank Details:
- Fluval Evo 13.5G
- Live Sands & Non-Live Rocks
- RODI water with 0 TDS
- Salinity about 1.025
- I have set the temp to 27C for now, plan to lower it once cycling is done (heard it is faster if temp are warmer)
- Test kit using Seneye Reef Monitor
- Plan is to have 2 clown fishes and soft corals or LPS..no SPS for now.
How did i cycle
- I added Ammonia to about 0.12 ppm as per Seneye NH3 reading
- I then used Brightwell MicroBacter XLM and initially added 15ml as per direction
Problems I have:
1. my PH level has always been low even before I start cycling. Right now it is sitting at 7.25. I read a few articles and was told to ignore it for now until cycling finishes however it makes me wonder if it will impact the cycling. Do i need to worry and if so, how do i bump it up?
2. After a week plus, the NH3 level is still about 0.11. During the week, i have since top up my MicroBacter 3 times (15 ml each) however my NH3 levels are still high. I do see my NH4 level increased to 92.8 ppb or 0.092 ppm however both readings have been stagnant for past few days
Question:
1. I have also did a lot reading about nitrates and there are conflicting views about removing / ensuring it is close to 0. Seeing that i am planning to have fishes & corals, do i need to ensure nitrates remains close to 0 and if so, besides weekly water change, what else can I do to improve it. I read about use Algae Caeto but it would mean i need to sacrifice some of my filter space in the fluval evo compartment. There are 3 compartments, one i am using for pump, another for skimmer and the middle one is for the stock filter
Hopefully some gurus can advise
WTG Leather Coral & Serpent Starfish
in Sell off/Pasar Malam Shop
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