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veliferium

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Posts posted by veliferium

    JH's 24x24x18inches Build Thread

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    One question, since you are to add another return pump, where is the other return pipe gonna be?

    <4000L/h should be Ok which in your case includes headloss and output from FRs.

    I can only give a rough gauge from my experience with my tank but from the pictures your sump seem pretty small and water level do rise significantly, I would encourage you adding ball valves as when tuned down, more flow will be directed to your other output like FR

    Lastly, headloss calculator does not calculate you T off so you might want to include additional horizontal length and pipe output.

    Good luck

    I am not intending to drill another hole for the extra return. Do you think it would be better to just run an extra pump with the FRs and direct the outflow to the sump since I will only be hanging the extra return pipe onto the side of the tank's glass. Noted that it will be rather hazardous.

    JH's 24x24x18inches Build Thread

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    Hi. Gd evening. I'm also using zetlight and it's my first time using led. Would you mind sharing the timing u set for the zetlight. I also hv two tubes of ati(white+pink) which I on from12-1630. Than zetlight from 1630-2130. I noticed when my ati lights are switch on , all my lps bloated up nicely. And once zetlight kicks in sm how certain corals shrink and the looks are not as nice as initially. Not too sure why it's like that?

    Good Evening bro, I find this fixture very strong. Initially I was sitting it on top of my tank and I realised that I have bleached some of the corals (rics esp).

    Now I am hanging it 6" above the water and can still sense that the rics are still unhappy. However, all other LPS/softies are doing fine (hammer,zoas).

    IMO, the key to LED is slow acclimatisation of the corals to the lights.

    I tune my settings to about 80% blue, 20% white. Colour mixing about 40% and UV about 20%. This should be the combination for mid-day mode. The rest of the modes are just varying degrees of the original combination. I have tried playing around with the settings, and somehow have yet to manage to find a sweet spot, especially so when all the photos I take mostly turn out too damn blue. hahaha

    I feel that the key is blues > white and maybe alittle of the UV(but not too much as it will result in difficulty in viewing the tank).

    I will try to do a more updated settings and hope to find more zetlight users! There is so little info available over the net for this brand and somehow I feel that it is rather under-rated. ;)

    Hope you have fun in tuning but do take note that the livestocks would require some time to get used to it!

    JH's 24x24x18inches Build Thread

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    My tank build is similar to yours, I'm currently running two eheim 1262 as return pumps

    I also did T off to 2 FRs and a chiller from each pump respectively. Even so my overturn rate is so high,

    I still cannot run 2 pumps at max capacity as my durso overflow pipe cannot keep up.

    Do take this into consideration, it may seem minor but it does play a part when affecting your sump level.

    My previous experience when running both pumps at full capacity, led to occasional micro bubbles due to high flow in sump

    and elevated sump level which may contribute to overflowing sump.

    Thank you bro for the invaluable advice!

    I'm looking at running a second Aquabee pump with a flowrate of 2000L/h for the T-off to FRs and chiller. Do you think this would be feasible?

    I have tried the headloss calculator on RC, however, I'm rather confused by the way it is calculated

    Lemon's 2013 new build

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    out of the 60+ that arrived, only one was male, and it was DOA.

    this species is very sensitive. They don't ship well, and take a while to adapt. after some die offs, these were the 4 remaining. all females.

    they are not easy to feed as well. being so small, they only eat tiny food particles. mine are, after 2 weeks, starting to eat small pellets and broken pieces of mysis shrimp.

    Ah!

    I saw the photos you posted for Dr Tanaka...

    I guess from now onwards it should be rather easy to feed since they've established their first bites.

    I'm guessing they are, like all other wrasses, protogynous hermaphrodites?

    JH's 24x24x18inches Build Thread

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    As my tank is progressing quite a bit,I'm trying to fill up some gaps which I hadn't manage to make a decision on initially. They include,

    1. Adding a redundancy plan to the return pump; by having a second pump to run the chiller in the case of pump failure for the first.

    2. Running GFO/carbon in the form of fluidised reactors.

    3. Increasing the flow rate of the aquarium by investing in controllable wavemakers.

    4. Investing in a DI Unit.

    Of the above, I am in the process of 2 and 4 while 3 is probably not so much in urgency as I have yet to fill the tank with more sps frags and I feel that the current set up is sufficient for now except for a single dead spot on the right hand side of the tank.

    Of all the above, the one issue that has set me thinking more is point 1. I'm currently running a Fluval SP 2 return pump (flowrate ~3600L/h). Return loop is as such, pump ---> chiller----> return. I would like to include another pump to feed the chiller so that the loop will be as such,

    Pump 1 (yet to be decided but probably a pump with ~2000L/h flowrate)

    pump-->chiller + T-off to 2xFR-->return

    Pump 2

    pump--->return

    Would like to seek the advise of more experienced reefers on this issue as well as how I can construct a second return and whether it is necessary to drill any holes. I was wondering if adding Pump 1 will end up draining my sump but I'm guessing the return for Pump 1 can be dialed down with a ball valve. Overflow is a single durso piping with standard 3/4" diameter pipe.

    Sorry I'm still a noob in piping works,trying to see if I can manage some DIY works with the help of bros here.

    West side reefers

    in General Reefkeeping_

    Posted

    1. bukitimah - Bukit Timah

    2. minireef - bukit batok

    3. Reddevils - Ghim Moh

    4. Sapp - Boon Lay Drive

    5. Xersion - Jurong West

    6. Dleecool - Clementi

    7. iantoh- bukit timah

    8. dominik - bukit batok central

    9. kusboy - Jurong West

    10. Hobgoblin - Bukit Batok East

    11. Idefix - Pasir Panjang

    12. TntR2 - Bukit Panjang

    13. brian38 - Bukit Batok

    14. fongster - clementi west

    15. tengah26 - West Coast

    16. kopiO - Bukit Panjang

    17. AK23 - Bukit Batok

    18. Stangreef Jurong East-

    19. Koji - Hillview Ave

    20. les71 - Jurong West

    21. Tian - Holland Close

    22. Spkentchai-Bukit gombak

    23. Gargamelron - Jurong West

    24. Ashaegyee - bukitpanjang

    25. Blondmyth - Teck Whye

    26. Chrislwp - Queenstown

    27. Kpkno3 - Bukit Panjang

    28. Joeybabooey - Dover Crescent (VERY new reefer)

    29. Azlindaza - Bukit Panjang

    30. MGDAR - Bukit Panjang

    31. Veronica - TeckWhye

    32. Qun77 - Bukit Panajang

    33. metaphor89 - Pioneer

    34. Angmoh - Teck Whye

    35. Keith - bukit panjang

    36. kanegan - Choa Chu Kang

    37. Sherman - bukit panjang

    38. Jameshong - Jurong West

    39.Snoopyhamburger-Jurong West

    40. veliferium- Tiong Bahru

    JH's 24x24x18inches Build Thread

    in Members Tank & Specs

    Posted

    diamond energy water is not RO/DI water. I thought it was RO/DI too at first but turns out it is only similar to RO(not identical) you may have to buy a distillation kit if you want "perfect" conditions for your water, perfect being recommended. Diamond water still contains tds that's why you need to distill the water it produces

    Thanks for the heads up bro! :thumbsup:

    I'm aware that diamond is not RO/DI per se.

    However, I don't think that 0 TDS is essential at least for me since saltwater, technically speaking, have a rather high TDS due to the mineral content of the different elements inside saltwater.

    In fact, I was trying to solve the low kH/Ca problem which I suppose can be rectified using an additive (ie Kalkwasser). I think that would be ideal since most of the evaporation takes away only freshwater, while the organisms inside are constantly depleting the big 3. Since most of my water changes are only partial (< 50%), I think I will have to try other alternatives of supplementing.

    Currently not looking at dosing pump due to the slightly higher cost and trying out cheaper methods first, since I don't own any high consumers of Ca and kH at this point of time :blush:

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