Chris Low

Hi FUel, Thank you and great way to share this precious information Thank to all reserachers.......

Hi Cherietung, So glad to hear from you. Guess your horses are doing very fine now. Should be going for mysis soon...All the best! Chris

Your comments made our effort worthy ....Have you spotted any local hairy horses lately...

Well just pass the 8cm with the tail curled.

Just another update from 8 weeks old to 6 months old. Just another 3 months should be matured and courtship begin....probably changing colour again to attract each other....

Hi Spoon, Adding more aglae would made training more difficult. Chinmo was very successful because he uses bare bottom tank and minimum decor. Current would carry the defrozed mysis dead swimming and that play a very important initial lureing.... Subsequently any falling dead mysis would do. Cheer!

Good day everyone! Latest collection and longing to study its behaviour in the tank. No detail was available in the nets and very few expert and aquarist writing in this species. Very interesting and stealth creature indeed. Anyone out there with experience to share? Cheer!

Truly appreciated. Quite ideal for seahorses if temperature not too high. Ulva normally hold fast into muddy bottom with very tough fine and short roots. Can be found when tide is really low say 0.5 to 0.3 at LCK beach beside Scout Camp. Chaeto was spotted at East Coast quite a hand full some time. Some of your fishes are also local caught? Thank....

Hi Maxstar81, Like your green tank and pipe. Care to give us an overview. Thank inadvance.

Hi all. Only place I rememner seeing these marco-algae is Chek Jawal and long grass found at Sentosa - down the highest cliff located entry into the strait of WTC. Long grass are actually not macro algae. It need muddy nutrient - kind of plant with roots.

If well fed, should be about 3'' long and 10mm wide.

Hi, I got too many 3 to 4 months old feeding frozen. Yellow H. Reidi. PM me if you are interested.

Well I guess we really miss someone like "Chinmo" and many more great seahorse fanatic. My Posting specially dedicate to our friends missing in action. Nevertheless cheer!

Hi shi, Is a wonderful news. Fry is very healthy looking and stout indeed. Rather big for about 2 weeks. Should monitor until it reaches 1 to 1 1/2'', try feeding live seamonkey ( enrich it alternate day) -start from smaller one, if it start chasing and eating, try frozen seamonkey but you must generate small current so to mimic live one. If feeding Ok, alternate with frozen mysis - chop into half,......Good luck to our Hong Kong enthusiastic!

All the parents, 1st and 2nd generation are feeding on live food such as freshwater or mysis shrimps. For them to grow fast and healthy so that the brood are larger in size in excess of 10mm. That way survival rate is better and 1st food can be fed 1 day old BBS.

Our favourite and the most shy female. Only out 1st light and just after light out for feeding. Also camera shy....

These sponge filters have beening doing us a great service. Since then, we have not encounter any diseases or hydroid etc... very surprising indeed for several brood. We are only using bare bottom tank with 3 air driven super sponge filter. Survival rate suprisingly at 30% to some time 50%.

The youngest and about 3 weeks.....feeding on BBS. the most worrysome period up to 4 to 5 weeks. Very susceptible to disease....

Some 8 weeks old juniors, always hungry and already feeding on frozen seamonkey and mysis.

The only survivor for the 4 brood....Average each month we get about 150+fries.

1st successful offsprings...about 10th month old. Alreadly breeding.....

Hi enthustistic, Managed to raise about 5 generations, not much but hectic enough. The great grandfather!

You should be able to get your pods if you have a sand bed. Siphon out some sand together with detrius into 1 feet tank about 1/2'' thick. Small bubbling and not forgetting to watch the SG and top up fresh water. Should be out in 2 weeks..

Hi Ong, If temp is the problem, try building a jacketed tank. A 1.5 feet within a 2 feet tank with chilled water running outside - no water contact into the fries tank. Got to drill 2 holes - one inlet 1/2'' and outlet 1'' overflow back to main tank sump. Inlet must be higher than outlet by 1'' distance. Insulate 3 walls using styrofoam. This way, you just need to channel water by a small pump or t-off from existing chiller outlet using a valve - not another chiller. Provided that your chillers not running full load yet or water temp of main system is about 25 Deg C average. Where you position your chillers is just as important. Don't allow the hot exhaust blow back into the main tanks ambient. Ideally channel the hot air out of the window. Best of regards

Hi ong, a. How can water be 29Deg C if only air operated filtration is use? Are you using pump with sponge suction type? I use everything air operated just to maintain about 27Deg C. Bacteria multiply best in higher temp. b. Think decap should be used. Personally I think adding haft cap of bleaching solution and soak BBS in FW for 1 hours before hatch them in salt water - Not the full decap method - at least kill some unwanted bacteria. c. I also use anti fungus potion that I brought from LFS. Dose only once and let it run about few days prior to puting in new fries. d. I feed enriched BBS from day 2 on. Using Zeocon from Kent. Guess better food from the start mean better immunity. e. If by chance your standalone tank is infested with small and big pods, just put 5 fries in it. They may survive by feeding on pod larvae. Of course don't forget to feed your pod. Either flake food or detrius. I sincerely wish you success. If I have more successful methods I will share all...