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hongqixian

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Posts posted by hongqixian

  1. got a few "floating" polyps... attached to 1-3mm coral sand...can glue anywhere u like...

    dun mind trading these "floating" ones for blue zoas

    Would you like to trade for blue shrooms? I have a few floating polyps here and there too and some attached to rock. Can do 1 for 1 trade :)

  2. Hello, I am looking for a new setup to rehouse my aged livestock, is your setup for a 3ft tank? Am actually thinking of getting a whole setup with chiller. Could you PM me more photos or details of the various parts and quote me a price for the whole? Thanks!

  3. Hi everyone,

    I have been in this hobby since 2002 but have not been following the forums very closely due to other commitments,

    Am thinking of redoing my current setup to a more easily-maintained 2-3ft one with sump and maybe chiller.

    My current setup is a 45cm tall 2ft running on 2 x t5 with HOB eheim liberty skimmer and a Red Sea Prizm skimmer.

    Fishes died some time back, mushrooms, green star polyps, a few zoas and RBTA anemone are doing well, RBTA split off two daughter clones. Tank is terribly overgrown with algae because I have been very lazy. Halimeda has been growing profusely as well.

    Would appreciate it if you guys here had any ideas to toss up regarding where I can purchase a good and cheap tank with a sump and refugium. Would prefer it if the setup was premade instead of built-to order, but I am still thinking out what to do so just appreciate any suggestions first. Thanks!

  4. Hi bro,

    I have not seem CB frenatus or ephippium for sale before. So far the only CB clowns I've come across in SG are perculas, ocellaris, bicinctus and rubrocinctus.

    Thank you for the info. Bicinctus look pretty good as well and they do host in BTAs if I'm not wrong. Anyone who has any for sale do let me know!

  5. Hi HQX,

    I bought a surface skimmer.... and I have a mind to, as what you have suggested in your previous replies, disconnect the UGF and instead have a surface skimmer and also another powerhead to take in midtank water.. having two outlets into an 2 tray OHF.. first tray white wool, second tray, lava rocks, CRs and Jap mat.. any comments ?

    In the meantime, if I disconnect the UGF.. should I also dig up all that plastic stuff ? It'll make the tank all cloudy and gunky again! :(

    Sounds good! Oh, the lava rocks may be a bad idea. I think people were saying before that they cause the pH to become more acidic which is not good for a marine fish tank. I could be wrong.

    There isn't really a need to dig up the UGF although it would provide some extra space in your tank. Actually, I find that with filter wool, muck clears up within an hour or three. Not really a problem.

    I think the zeolite should be okay.

    P.S. I hope you don't intend to do any rescaping with the lionfish in your tank, you do know that they're venomous right? Ouchie :lol:

  6. Would the lighting conditions for a sponge be the same as corals? And would I have to purchase the feed.. coral snow or something ?

    most are non photosynthetic and some to a small extent. don't worry, the photosynthetic ones require only a wee bit of light and yours will do. As for the feed, I think it's better to get bottled phytoplankton (like Kent Phytoplex) instead of those coral mixes. Or if you can pick up a $3 bottle of live phytoplankton from Petmart in serangoon and dose a little bit once in a while even better.

    I really don't know about the star with the sponge, I went fishing once and caught a thirty cm long chocolate chip that ate the bait. -_-.

    haha that sounds like a good idea. Try to skip the undergravel on the next one :lol:

  7. nice lionfish,

    i do think you should reduce the amount of sand to increase the swimming space though and try to make sure the base of the rocks is in contact with the tank bottom and not the sand or the rocks may be unstable and collapse on your lions. just a suggestion.

    you can try a blue sponge if you want but it may die over time.

    ps that star is a chocolate chip and eats almost anything so do rethink if you ever intend to add corals.

  8. I've never done a UGF before.. therefore this is a first for me.

    haha most people start off with one and they are hurriedly advised to change it. it's more pain in the long run because you actually have to dig it up to clean it after a few months. You could always detach the pipe connecting the ugf to the OHF and stick on an intake and then it would function similarly to a plenum or dsb. Would collect way less dirt.

    I was interested in the algae.. but actually more interested in keeping or at least trying to keep something 'green' in the tank.. any recommendation? I saw some kelp being sold in Irwana..

    can just dump a small clump in, but it might look messy to you. Then again you can always remove it if you don't like it.

  9. Hi again caleb,

    Hmmm.. I thought that good BBs require lots of oxygen.. but low light conditions?

    it's not the light, its the fact that you only get low oxygen levels deep in the cracks for the nitrate to nitrogen gas conversion.

    Do you have a picture of these algae? Can they be bought ?

    you can see them here: http://www.macro-algae.com/ . As for buying, ask around in the pasar malam forum because people sell the extra growth from their tanks. But you don't need them for your fish only tank really.

    Also, as for the live rocks, some of the pieces have alot of white hairy algae on it.. should I clean these away ?

    use a toothbrush and scrub off anything that smells bad. Also pull off by hand any furry green algae. purple and red algae are usually okay.

    anyone care to advice on the bulb type/color/luminems that i should employ?

    Light intensity doesn't matter for a fish only tank. Still, a combination of blue and white light is preferable for the sea look. For dawn and dusk, turn on a blue bulb alone. Still, your level of dedication to all the little details is commendable :lol: A lot of people jump into keeping corals without even realising the amount of light they need.

    filteration system is UGF with at least 3 inches of coral sand (3mm, coarse)

    Are you really sure you want to use a ugf? much harder to clean you know and if many bits of meaty food get stuck in it and decompose, your lions may suffer health problems, regardless of how well cycled or how many nitrifying bacteria you have. For a lion tank with a few fish just stick in a filter intake to your OHF and skip the ugf preferably. P.S. make sure your squirrel fish is too large to fit into the lions' mouths, considering that lions can stretch their mouths.

    regards

  10. hihi,

    if coralline algae is algae, which is some sort of plant... so wouldnt it mean that it will consume the nitrites and nitrate ? The green in Algae is chlorophyllum rite? So if it is.. surely there is photosynthesis.. and that would be CO2 converting to O2...

    Yes, the algae has chlorophylls and other light-capturing pigments. However, coralline algae has mostly aesthetic properties, and good growth is an indicator of good water quality. This is because the amount of coralline algae is too low to significantly remove wastes from the system. You would not depend on the green algae on the glass to remove wastes from a freshwater tank, correct?

    Is there a thread that talks about the uses of the live rock? Coral is coral.. and algae is algae... corals are animals.. so their needs are different from a plant...

    Live rock is a porous material that is good for growing bacteria and already contains the proper species of saltwater bacteria, like giant in-tank bio-home plus it also has a lot of tiny animals and algae that are interesting to watch and add to the fauna of the tank, as well as produce planktonic particles for organisms like tubeworms to feed on. Scavengers like worms and the little white crustacean pods will rapidly eat up waste food. Nitrifying bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrates can grow on the rocks. A small amount of denitrifying bacteria that convert nitrates to nitrogen gas live deep in the cracks with low oxygen levels.

    Corals need lots of light because most of them are hermatypic (light-requiring) and contain algae called zooxanthellae in their flesh and tissues. It is these algae that require the light, and the excess sugars they produce leak into the coral for the coral's nutrition. However, any nitrate uptake by the algae is not significant compared to the amount of waste that the coral produces.

    Clams have been known to consume lots of nitrates because they live in very high light areas and the concentration of zooxanthellae they have is very high. However, they require a lot of lighting and very good water conditions.

    The best nitrate uptakers are fast growing algae such as Gracillaria sp. and Chaetomorpha. The fast growth means that they take up a lot of nitrates to make their plant proteins. Still, for a fish-only tank with a low bioload, a water change every two months would do nicely. Just don't overfeed.

    hth

  11. Hi everyone, I just want to ask what the prices can be like for ricordea florida and where I can get them. Have never kept them before and am interested in them. Is it possible to get them on a low budget? Student asking that's why. Saw people selling them in the pasar malam for >$40 a piece and that's a bit expensive for me to save pocket money for haha.

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