Kelmen

There's another approach. Direct place the chiller coil in the sump tank, relying on the flow rate of the sump. Save you a piece of pump and piping. there's a thread in here somewhere on such design, dunno where liao, try a search.

No, the Diamond brand water is not RO or DI type water. They are just basically "filtered-water", or can say is "ceramic-filtered-water plus some -proprietary-invention-so-and-so " Personally, I always using this type of water, been more than 6 months. Well, let's just say "so far so good". Bear in mind that this water is MAINLY mean for human comsumption, not for aquarium purpose. So, dont put too much "expectation" on it over our marine tank HTH

Can I say the horsepower is the power-comsumption (letric used) ? for chiller, the higher rating so the higher heat-exchange rate?

pic would be more helpful. "the only and 1 white" give no clues to us. In general, you can place the fish in quarantine\hospital tank, and dose some general-purpose medicine. SeaChem's ParaGuard seems good enough, as its not a strong stuff. HTH

Generally there are 2 types: mechanical and biological (chemical is depend on what chemical product you use, like the stuff in FR). Most of the filteration are mechanical (IMO: skimmer belong to this type as well). Biological wise practically left the plant and LR. IMO: you should put up the mechanical as 1st line filteration, and use biological OR chemical as last filteration. And if you wanna run constant chemical filteration, better dont use biological. Or use chemical once awhile (if something spike up, like NO3) while running biological fulltime. HTH

IMO: got doubt about 2 parts: 1. WC drainage at return section - do you need this? Isn't the one at the inlet section would be good enough? Of this one is for new water in? 2. chiller return - why now just direct the outlet into the return section water? making a drainage like will cause waterfall and hence bubbling.

there's a group of fishs under a general fish family named "anemone fish", clownfish is one of them. You have to chk out some book for the full family. HTH

if they are diatom, some invertebrate will feed on them, like snails and sea cucumber, etc. certain hermit will do too. you can stock some hardy invertebrates for control purpose.

dunno much about that too. Best you particate in the thread provided. as the SCWD (if not mis-spell ), its a device to change outlet flow. doing a seach with SCWD can yield you further info. http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_wavema...d.asp?ast=&key= HTH

seems like the key factor is constant feeding. hardworking

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=646412 great idea! another good alternative over SCWD. CIO

As regards pods population concern, IMO the fishs (dragonet, goby, wrasse) will be the main concern, not those invertebrate like starfish or etc. IMO, you can be rest assure no big harm from invertebrate onto your pods, if you have the "right" type of fishs in your tank. The DSB concern is worm-terminator.

My feedback is following the prev post of mys (yours lah) Well, if its specifically about the sand sifting starfish, I'm kind of confuse as well. If I not mistaken, I been recently come across threads on Dr Ron, there's a mention of "sand-burrowing starfish" basically no good, in simple, keep them away from your "reef" tank. But I also have some recalls that surface sand sifting starfish is not that bad, good to keep the surface aerated and clean of bacteria. Maybe the bad one is the one digging "into" your SB. I would suggest a better and further clarification from Dr Ron. pai seh me also blur blur liao . The correct answer would usually need one to specify the species name, not common name.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.php Seems like there been some recent threads on the worms. Well, to simplify your matter, removal is straight and forward, be that a good one or bad. As one said, better killed the wrong guy, rather than let the bad guy escaped. Or for those wanna "decide" to remove or keep worms found, can chk the thread. If not useful enough, go to Dr Ron's subforum for further expertise help http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdis...p?s=&forumid=40 How I envy those guys with the good worms...

There certain species of the worms do predate on living stocks, but most generally are harmless - being scanvenger. That's where Dr Ron expertise will be valueble with his ID skills and experiences, to tell whether a bug is good or evil - to our beloved tank. Anyway if you really distaste them, the traps would be useful. And sounds to me that's your final call.

Except that Dr Ron stated sand-sifting sea cucumbers are consider "safe" for DSB. I believe sand-sifting snails would be safe too, like fighting counch. I think the main star of DSBs are the worms. The pods can survive even on LR, except burrowing worms need the SB specifically. As one bro recommended, small tank best go with BB.

fire worms are being regards as good cleaner critters for reef tank. Maybe you really pissed off by their "ugliness", else they are great value to your tank. Especially if you running a DSB. For algae control, you may look into herbivor approach. HTH

they are generally good cleaner crew too. Apart from its "ugliness", or you suspect (probably having a prejuidce onto them) them cause problem, then can try the trap as the bro above mentioned. Else, left them be. I wish I have such "buggy" in my DSB too.

its likely you use a wrong type of sand substrate. Some type of it will be like that after long time in saltwater, after many chemical effects.

1. for simplicity - dont run them when cycling, else they will drag your cycling period. 2. unless you have problem after the cycling period, like massive nuisance (bad algae + bacteria) things strike. Small portion water chg would be sufficient. 3. they are in run long. Espeically if you put them in IOS, as air contact will increase the nitrate output later. You can do that during your cycling period (speed-up). After that, put them fully submerge in water (eg. in sump). 4. kalk -> calcium supplement, mostly and heavily needed by stony coral. 5. if you got the $ to burn, you may consider them. But not a necessity. HTH

IMO: for best shrimp compatibility, avoid shrimps with "weapon" - pincers. I have 2 old and big cleaner shrimps, with 2 new and small peppermint shrimps, been mxied about 1 month inside 4' tank. No problem so far.

I dunno KH is needed by any livestock. I only aware its kind of "safe-guard" to prevent high pH swing. Also chk your calcium and magnesium, maybe you overdose calcium, or low in magensium, having an ionic imbalance. extensive water chg should help in these chemical problem at some extend. GL

just come across a similar thread on RC http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=679429 I would recommend get more details from the pros there. Best you provide a picture. Turtle glass the common name is really very "common" and general. HTH

yoh, bro, thx for the patch-up. Do a research, found a good ref on that ###### thing. CIO: http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?act=ST&f=7&t=39939

http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/article...phroditism.html by Leonard Ho Good reading. About capability to change ######. Hermaphrodites: 1. synchronous/simultaneous - posses both ###### organ at same time 2. sequential - only 1 ###### organ active 2.1. protogynous - female -> male 2.2. protandrous - male -> female seems like sequential hermaphrodites can change 1 time only, not simply-simply can change