johntanjm

i think most impt is replace the screws every now and then ah. if the screws snap, can forget about replacing the hinges forever. haha! adrian thanks for advise!

I intend to get a new set of hinges for my cupboard. Many hinges claim to be stainless steel but still rust in the end. Does anyone know how to choose high grade stainless steel or even aluminum hinges and I heard by spraying them with some chemical, it can help delay the rusting. Any ideas? thanks guys!

hey jyoon, where's your coffee shop ah? I also want to go drink!

2mm. this is the same material that is used to cover the fluorescent lights installed in false ceilings. I think normal hardware stall have, I got mine from clementi ave 2

eh the screen is totally submerged? fuel got a point. must run wet dry for maximum effect.

like iceman said, rug canvas material is great but overtime it rips very easily. I just got my hands on the below material and will be testing it on one screen soon.

this is an excellent use of space! keep us updated with pictures!

the scrubber removes ammonia!?

upz

Another golden butterfly reefer! WOOT! I think a 3 by 3 layout is going to be a nice environment. that's 9 square feet of swim space!

Does the dust settle on your class? can you check your pH, kH to make sure they're at good levels? it might be calcium precipitating out causing the 'dustiness'

iwarna has

underwater, I recommend slit and screen to be of the same length. if you're really gonna build it, PM or call me la. got somethings also i don't know how to document on the forum but will save you some headache. Santa! that's a GREAT representation of what I was trying to say! THANKS! and i hope it helps everyone else too!

no la, trying to improve bio filtration for my tank. I think the bio part is still relatively weak. but its a good idea for algae screen tho' haha!

Been looking around for such a canister, no pump its ok. anybody know where to find? refer to attached pic

To cut the slot, I recommend to use something called a mill. it gives very nice cut and if you have a work table with a clamp, u can do a really nice slot. I got mine manufactured at a factory. Follow santa's slot size, couldn't go wrong. i think mine is about 8mm. ask iceman also, he has quite a good setup. Refer to attached picture to how i secure my cloth. I half the cloth over a plastic beam and then slot it into the slit. note that cloth screens cannot be secured using cable tie. the pressure at the cable tie points will rip the cloth eventually. if you're using plastic for the screens however, no problem, just use cable tie. can come by my place and take a look if u want

Found a new use for the algae. I acquired a convict tang recently and its been very picky food-wise. been feeding it dried seaweed that costs like um $8 a pkt? but I just realized that my convict tang loves the fresh algae that i pluck off the screen! so yeps, more cost savings, u won't need to buy food for your herbi tangs if they take the algae on your screens!

gary you're still at this!? geez...

easy peasy la peacemaker, just look for me. just let me know before hand, when i harvest i save one bowl for you. jyoon thanks for compliments. it will be fun to DIY, wait for your addition to this thread. Will be trying out a new material for one of my screens to see if it can cut microbubbles. will update.

upz for the weekend! time to up your magnesium and make coraline grow in time for CNY! =)

I bought a pair during the recent red sea shipment. one is eating and the other one is being picky. they're so active. yes go for a school if you have fowlr! beautiful fish. $70 is not a bad price at all considering that its been under your watchful eyes for 3 days and its feeding =)

ok problem resolve. This is what i learnt. in MH ballast there is something called an ignitor. once power is on, if it doesn't detect a bulb or a lighted bulb it will keep sending strong pulses to ignite the bulb. once it detects that the bulb is lighted, it stops. how this is done is another question for another time. For this ignitor's pulse to work, the distance between the ignitor (inside the ballast) and the bulb should be around 2 feet. Anything more than that, the pulse will become too weak to ignite the bulb. the wire between my bulb and ballast was 6ft hence the ignitor's pulse wasn't strong enough to light the bulb up. Reducing that wire length worked like a charm =) In special cases where u need to place the ballast far from the bulb, a special long-distance ignitor is required to send the pulse further. Finally.... after so many weeks of manual light switching =) hope what i learnt will be useful to all. DIY folks, good luck!

upz for you. this is a beautiful fish

really? learn something new. anyway, my 3.5ft lost like um... say maybe 2-3 litres every half a day till i installed a chiller. so my theory is, so long as water temperature is above room ambient temperature, evaporation will happen quickly. once u are able to lower water temperature thru a chiller, then it won't happen as quickly. after i installed a chiller, i don't top up water at all for 2-3 days

ha yes! that's quite an impressive skimmer. hey where's your tank thread? I wanna see leh