reefer guy
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Posts posted by reefer guy
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bro, i have this computation sheet for thickness of acrylics used in fish tanks, and yours falls under 12mm if braceless -- since you have purchased and done up the tank, probably it is safer to add bracing. You can download the file here....
http://www.mediafire.com/?9h6vi6cbvv6xjwv
I am also at the midst of doing my own tank - - have built 2 frag tanks so far, a sump undergoing leakage test (for office reef tank) and another sump for my home under construction. As it is my first time to deal with acrylics, tested first on small items and going big -- my last and upcoming project is a 3ft x 5ft tank.
I am also doing my own timber stands -- purchased fine solid timber pre-cut and assembling it. It is a fun learning process and I am lucky to have a patient wife as my living room turned to a factory.
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i am uncle and i have two sets. pm me if interested
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this is a regulator, not a snorkel
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Can any bro share a drawing on how the whole setup suppose to connect. I'm very interested to know. Can also advise an estimated cost of the whole setup.
this might help http://www.guarriello.net/chiller.htm
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sooner or later that fire shrimp will be an expensive meal for your grouper
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twiddledoo, I used standard AW pipes (20mm) and hose connectors, you can purchase these from Hai Cheong Plastics or any plumbing supply hardware I suppose.
rockyboy, chiller is about 5 inches away from wall and is ventilated enough in an air conditioned room.
alanchin, not opening both valves at max means you are adding more pressure as water is pushing harder to pass through the valves, aside from which it will take more time for your tank to cool down thus chiller runs longer.
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modification I made that kept me worry-free of any leakages....
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teco chillers works great but this is one flaw i have noticed as well -- the main connections is too sensitive and easily leaks due to external forces. I resolved mine by changing adding a female hose connector and totally discarding the shut off valves. i will post a picture tomorrow.
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Anybody knows any lfs carries the above? thanks.
Jon
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google sgbros
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Hammer and screwdriver will be your best friend
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blue reef scuba -- responsible operator with a sense of humor, you will never find a boring moment with this group.
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a. gemmifera
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i want.
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add at least two equal the size or bigger to the resident yellow tang.
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Besides lighting, there are a few considerations like KH stability, pH, NO2.....etc. Since your corals (SPS, LPS) are so healthy, colored and rapid growth under MH, which meant your water perimeters is perfectly good so why not you switch to LED and try up for 6 months. The result from you will definitely benefit to those who are so skeptical on the SPS using current LED technology.
as i have quoted on my first post in this thread, i am not sold out to the idea of led lights on sps tank. and why do you think i would fix something that is not broken in my system? since you are promoting LED is better than halides, why not show us the fruits of your led tank instead?
chill bro and don't be too worked out, not trying to get into arguments but seriously, halides vs. led? there is totally no comparison. as you have mentioned, other water parameters affect growth and colouration, so the best way to compare as i previously mentioned is under same water yet isolated. until such justified comparison is produced i won't buy the idea of led for sps. VIvi Aquariums is marketing led lights for reefers, I would have done the same thing if i am in this business.
you should know by now that i have been reading and searching answers for led lights for sps tanks; for obvious reasons, i would want to venture in something less costly in the long run. but as of date, i find led has not reached what halides can achieve for the hobbyists; it will definitely sooner or later but not now. so till the time it has been proven by the majority of sps reefers, i'd stick to halides.
bottomline; Vivid aquarium has not convinced me of a justified comparison other than the technology led carries, and the products they carry
cheers!
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seen it before. it is having great results alright. his thread, http://www.reefcentr...2062544&page=28 (check on post #692) his monti has good growth rate compared to your link 7 months later ( although the other sps, which seems like a milli to me, right beside it exhibited less growth.) and to take note, on the above link, corals have been encrusted already when he placed in tank, which means it was not totally grown out from an led tank.
now i wonder if he uses halides, how good could it be. here is my monti growth under halides for 2.5 months https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/316681_10150474109394148_725304287_n.jpg
still, I want to see end results for growth and coloration, then we can start comparing halides and leds. I don't see any point on this just by comparing technical infos and conclude one is better than the other.
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Good technical infos but what I would be more interested to SEE is the end result; I am not sold out to the idea of led for sps tanks as an equally or better replacement for halides. I have been reading and searching for threads (here and reef central) that shows success in keeping sps under led and all I can come up with is terms as "holding colors", "thriving", "surviving" What I want to see is results crazy colorations,rapid growth and flourishing successes which in my years of keeping sps under halides has been a living testimony not only to me but to other reefers alike.
Perhaps the only way to compare halides and led is to get two frags from a colony, under same water yet isolated from each other and wait for a year. This is a comparison which I believe is justifiable than just simply comparing pars. Only then will I put my hats off to led.
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Got this brand new Poseidon 4690-WE Xstream Deco dive regulator for sale; still in original box, never been used, never touched water.
Acquired this through my good friend from U.S. two months ago as I was planning to setup a new rig set but eventually dropped the idea. Asking for S$700 for this good unit ( bought it at US$750 shipping excluded)
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hawaii shipment arrived at SeaLife by now.
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you could get various acrylics from Dama.
I find most liverocks we get locally are porous, and drilling really needs a steady and careful hand otherwise you it will break into pieces. Just my two cents, use epoxy putty to bind rocks.
New Tank Build
in DIY Forum
Posted
nice tank build.... yeah, i'm also beginning to gather alot of tools after my built -- i've got those clamps as well (600mm), plenty of screws, nuts & bolts, drillbits and such. How much and where did you get your router though? I purchased the acrylics from dama pre-cut; they have the acryfix but no longer carry weld-on glues. I got weld-on #3 from that acrylic supplier at Eunos Techlink (forgot the name) and yes weld-on #4 is not available. I ordered weld-on #4 from US as well as acrylic glue applicator (bottle type) I also have the syringe type but the bottle type is alot easier to use and control than the syringe. For the stand, i got the pre-cuts from a shop at Jln Berseh -- just tell them what you need and they will cut for you.
Although my skills in tank building is really lousy, i get the kick out of the knowledge and experience gained, and the process is really fun. I have plenty of pics for my built but have not yet uploaded on my blog.