nsyahron
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Posts posted by nsyahron
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Hi,
The best treatment for ich (if that is what your fish got) is hyposalinity IMO. Do a search on hyposalinity. Fresh water dip will just help relieve the fish from the parasite but won't cure it some people say.
The cycle of crypto (the parasite that cause ich) ends after the free swimming stage only if there is not host (fish) to attach to. But keep in mind that there maybe cysts still on the sand bed, rocks etc that have yet to hatch, so it is advisable to keep the tank running free of fish (you have moved them to Q-tank/H-tank...a good start) for at least 6 weeks-chemical free. I think the eel should go as well...just in case. 6 weeks will be enough time to see through the whole cycle of the parasite's life, making sure no more cysts are hiding on your sand and live rocks.
After the 6 weeks, use the Q-tank to make sure your new purchases don't carry white spots parasite with them before you add them in your main tank.
Good luck!
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Yes, leaving the tank empty (no fish, no new addition of rocks/corals etc) for about 6 weeks will eliminate Brook/white spot from your tank.
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In the first place...it is not necessary that a clown will host an anemone. it is nothing unusual.
I thought anemones host clowns. How can a clown hosts an anemone?
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Use the above Search tool and type in sump, you'll find a lot of info.
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What's your tank size? What is the depth of the tank? If the tank is less than 12 inches deep, at least 80 watts of those T4 lights should be barely enough. If more than 12 inches deep, T4 won't be enuf.
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Live Sand from the Beach? I think thats where you went wrong.
Never take sand from the beach, cause:
1. It contains lots of parasites and harmful organisms.
2. Contains lots of harmful substances and chemicals such as metals etc...
Cant remember, maybe the other members know of other problems associated with beach sand.
Suggest you remove the sand imme and do a complete water change...
His other fish are OK...it should not be because of the sand. It's most likely cyanide poisoning. Buy from another LFS. Do not buy 2 nemos in one bag. Do not use netting to transfer them. Do not take nemo out of water ever. Hope this helps.
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After I added a clownfish 4 days ago, I haven't seen any of the crawlies anymore.
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It should not matter where you take salinity readings from. If SW is circulating between the sump and tank then salinity readings will be the same whether you put the hydrometer in the sump or the main tank.
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its natural for the ph to drop during the night.dripping kalk would help if you really need to increase the ph.but dun add too much all at once.
Huh? His tank is FO, no photosynthetic organism except for algae, so there should be minimal pH swing between day and night. It could be either pH test kit inaccurate, removal of crushed coral (AT might disagree on this because he says crushed corals are useless in buffering pH), or switching salt (try test the pH of newly mixed SW using Tropic Marine salt). You can buy those buffers sold at LFS to safely raise pH. Kalkwasser drip is also good in maintaining alkalinity and pH.
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Make the overflow comb longer, or a bigger overflow box, or double/triple siphon in overflow box. You have to to change one variable at a time to see which one will give the same outflow and inflow. Good luck!
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I mixed saltwater first, then only put in sand. Sand storm will be over in a day or two. No harm.
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hhmmm...... dont quite understand u when u said "cycle". cycle is not equal to 20% water change.
someone once told me that the longer the cycle, the better your chances that the fishes will survive. During cycle, u may want to take note of your NO2 and NO3. It will skyrocket high, and gradually decrease overtime. once NO2 = 0, that will be your chance to add a fish to test first. Of course, your proper filteration must be there.
anyway, i did mine for almost 3 months before i added my first 2 clown fishes.
so far, all fishes added in till now are happy and healthy.
I salute you SB! Not many people can stand even a week of staring into an empty aquarium!
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Wilkommen muar_chee,
I recommend you add a sump to the 2 ft tank, can give you a little bit of stability. Besides sand, salt, powerhead, you'll definitely need live rocks, skimmer, lighting and many other add ons. I would buy an anemone only after at least 3 months after I bought the nemo (and still alive!). Good luck
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Sodium bicarbonate is baking soda, baking powder is baking soda plus additives needed for baking.
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Just don't buy/use baking powder!
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Agree with the cute Nemo guy, 1 month is the limit (they're not expensive right?)
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I think its a type of algae. Correct me if i'm wrong.
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GC,
Yes, there will be ammonia spike. I think you still need to cycle, although your duration may not be longer than 1 week. There are bound to be die offs when you transfer here and there, and better give time for the beneficial bacteria to repopulate your LR before you add any livestocks. Kenapa? Tak tahan aa?
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Right on killfire!,
I'll settle with a glass of frappuccino
. But it's kinda hard looking into an empty aquarium. Testing my patience.Cheers
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Myth : "People that has been reefing forever knows everything."
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Maybe I should've add that I do intend to drip KW in the long run. I have always used crushed corals in my FW tank to maintain pH at 7.0 (I have to do trial and error on the amount needed to maintain pH/ increase alkalinity to more than 8 dKh, if excess corals then pH skyrocket to >8.0). Maybe FW not the same as SW....thanks AT for the heads up
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Nudi,
Cool. What kinda lights you're using? How long has this tank been running?
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pH low means your nitrogen cycle has started. I am at the same stage as you are, and i'm thinking of using crushed corals in my sump tank as pH buffer. That'll keep pH around 8.3.
Edit: The crushed coral will be in a net type bag, near water flow, so that I can clean it if necessary. I have DSB in my sump.
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Danano,
Thanks man. I live and work in KL. I saw you went to school at Austin , Texas. I went to Minnesota, Golden Gophers (our football team suck by the way!), class of 98. Good luck on your 30G!
Black Suncoral opening
in Members Tank & Specs
Posted
strat,
Sun coral doen not need light. You can put him at the sand bed. Initially it will take some time to make them open up, but you need to keep trying. They need the meat, not only juice. Use a pipette to target the brine shrimp meat to each polyp mouth, especially at the yellow tentacles, even if you see very tiny ones. Good luck.
My sun coral (sorry for the blurry pic)