reeftask
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Posts posted by reeftask
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my advise: just kill them.
They will grow fast again after you buy corals with LR. Killing them now will reduce their population now and save you from stresses for a few years.
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you should quarantine all your fishes in another tank or bring out the LR/sands.
Copper and other chemicals will be absorbed to LR/sand forever.
Bad water conditions will not bring velvet/white spots to your fishes. They might got in through bad quarantine or no quarantine.
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If your tank is 4ft and above and matured tank, a dead anemone will not kill your corals. It happened to me once when I ignored my anemone. It went to the corner where the pump is. Then one day I have finally noticed, it had dissappeared forever while all the other corals are still growing.
A split anemone will not join back as this the way they grow too. It will find another location far from its current twin to dominate its own territory.
Just sell it away if you worry. Else always pay attention to it and shift it as you please.
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I bought some mushrooms (the 25 bucks type) from reborn a week ago. they are still not opening up. The flow rate in the area is not really excessive and the rest of my mushrooms and coral (the most delicate corals i have are open brain and a falvia) and clam is doing fine.
I admit that they ARE under some stress. Let me explain:
I have a 2 foot tank and cannot afford to place the rock W coral i buy somewhere in the tank. For mushroom corals, what i do is to drill a hole in the live rock structure i have. I will then cut the rock the mushroom coral i have so that i have as small a rock as possible (I leave only a space for the foot). I then put them in the holes and use rock bonder to secure them.
This has worked with other mushrooms (of the 8 dollar variety). Is it true that some mushrooms are harder to keep than the others? (the mushroom i bought was flat, with no 'bumps' or 'tentecles' and whatsoever not). They are currently sitting on my substrate and i am wondering whether to proceed with sticking them on as i will have to drill them out if they die. 2 already have started melting and i threw them away..any suguesstions?
maybe your glue is not suitable.
maybe the mushroom was injured badly from your cut.
maybe your water parameters dont suit.
maybe the lighting is not suitable.
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serious? i havent adjust mine as the drip is still constant. i using 3 drop per sec now.
I think your denitrator didnt work. Your NO3 lowered might be from your other means, example, Live Rocks.
Your drip is too fast for the NO3 bacteria to survive/grow.
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seriously we dunno what wrong with ur chiller, so we cant advise how much the servicing will be. it may be not enuff gas, compressor spoil, fan spoil or even thermostat.
This bro is very right. Whoever can solve your problem at this once is really a god.
You have ask the service guy or anyone to come to your place to check. Iwarna is not god and they too need to check. Furthermore Iwarna is not chillers technician but is a marine fish trading company.
You have to explain what is your system setup,..... in order for us to advise.
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If your LR is not not very stable yet, coraline algae will hard to grow as green algae will first grow and cover all the areas preventing coraline algae to grow.
Best way, get matured LR or wait till your LR are very matured.
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I have these in my 1.5 year old empty deserted 2ft tank which was for my seahorses. Its debris dirt created from hermit crab's dump, live rock debris, etc.
You have to suck it out in order to clean up from your tank or else it will re-settle down again on the other LR. Then increase the flow to prevent debris sitting there. Slight algae will grow after cleaning.
I dont really care on mine as not planned to have seahorse there yet. I just remain the tank is still cycling to prevent a dead tank.
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Bro lemon, forgotten to mention: denitrator will lessen nitrate level only. The nightmare is, you have to adjust it very often to get the drip correct. The drip is so less, it will always choke up the valve throat. Then you have to release a bit for the vlave throat to release off the debris and then to close it back to the correct drip level. Many bros here had tried and gave up due to the frequent adjustment on the valve.
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sometimes it is really hard to tell what happened from your little post.
We need to know more about your measuring kits' age, brand, etc...
It could be the flow of water.
If the tank is too small, alot of things will swing high and low, eg: temperature,...
BEST with pics of your tank.
We need more info: tank age, water age,...
It could be new tank syndrome too.
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bro i saw small BT at coralfarm & LCK.
ah beng also have them in stock
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Hi guys,
I am a bit dissapointed about the diversity and differences of the offered equipment by the LFS in Singapore. Overall they are all to small to have a large range of equipment.
I was trying to buy online some equipment from the US but their shipping rates are outragious. Marine Depot for example is asking 130USD to ship to Singapore (they said they had to raise the rates recently). That is about half of what i need to pay for the equipment only.
I have checked many, many other online store but they are all in the 100+USD rates.
Anyone good recommendations. Maybe Malaysia?
I was looking for 4 modules of USA Current LED Powerbrite strips. They are cheap and some reviews are saying it is a good price/quality.
Shipping rates always goes up according to oil prices increase. But last year, the oil prices shoot up so fast and every sector followed. The problem is when the oil prices dropped so much, all these other sector remain the same price, eg shipping rates. When oil prices goes up, they give the reason: oil is playing the main role. But when oil price down, they will give the reason: oil is not the only cost, other factors are more affecting.
So when they have a chance to increase price, they will. But they will try hard not to decrease the price after the increase. All because of greadiness.
I now ended up paying double shipping cost for my orders.
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For FOWLR, what nitrate level is ok?
I mean what nitrate level would be safe for the fishes as well as keep nuisance algae & crayno (red slime algae) under control.
& what is ur level on nitrates in ur tank!
I have a friend who has a fish only tank with very less LR and small refugium. His nitrate level is a lot over than 120 ppm for many years. His fishes still live many years. So I dont think fishes really care on high level nitrate. But high nitrate level always made his tank fast grown algaes.
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how come u nid help when its turning from white to green lolx..
unless u say u prefer white?
its rather common to c prata go thru colour morph after settling down in tank lighting condition..
all lps colours will morph accordingly to their environment..
LPS and zoos will change colour according to light one. dun worry its not dying. like the LFS and the sea and your tank lights are all different. the coral will adjust its colour to filter out which light it needs more or dun need.if im not wrong, (please correct me if i am), it is turning green because ur light has too much "green spectrum" in it. as far as i know, white light has 7 colours of the rainbow. could be urs have too much green, and the prata is changing to green to reflect the green. (you see green because green is being reflected into ur eye). thats why the coral turns green to filter out excess green.
the logic is more or less correct according to science, but im not sure if it applies to corals =x
Both of these bros are correct in a way. Most of the corals in the world are green or brown. Even researches/scientists still unable to tell the exact answers.
Some say may due to the light spectrum and temperature. Some say its the basic colour of corals.
I personally noticed after brown corals acclimated to its environment, it will turn to green in a few months. Sometimes another few months some will change from green to other colours. Or some from other colours to green. Even my yellow ricordia changed to orange within 2 weeks. I had an anemone which turned from brown to green and lastly to striking yellow and green stripes with red spots. Had another anemone chenaged from brown to green and then to yellow with blue spots.
All of these corals lives to few years in my tank so it means they are healthy.
All these are not important. The important thing is your corals are healthy so should not be worry. Hope this will relieve you from stress.
It is best not to simply play with improper lightings. This will directly/indirectly kill your corals.
As long as your corals not changing to transparent bleaching colour, it is still OK.
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reeftak. your task now is to catch up with bro lemon postings count. if your fingers is sore after all the typing. find me for some mopiko
I wouldnt purposely increase the posting counts. It wont help me to sustain my marine tank, LOL.
I jus like to start my pets from babies. Thats why all my pets are started since babies to grown-ups.
Even when I go LFS, I will choose those smallest babies.
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Haha! hmm, they love the little hang over behind the tank. I guess thats their HDB! always hanging out. and when i turn off the lights at night, when all the fishes are asleep, they dart around the tank. a real joy to watch
Lemon, how are your babies now? start selling yet?
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Hi Bro,
How is the progress of Live Rotifers, zooplankton and pods?
Have you start marketing them?
Me interested
Regards
When its quiet for so long, I think mostly not.
I too want to be the next president of USA for still not happening, LOL.
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alright alright! sounds exciting! thanks guys for all the tips. I'm excited abt keeping anthias!
Just remember to buy more anthias, preferable above 6 because they are school fishes. Not they are school students but they always remain in groups in nature. If too less, they will feel insecure and stressed. Do not house them with aggressive fishes.
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hey bro reeftask. so long never see you online. where u disappear to or post as other nicks
what's yr task now?Was hyper busy with work. must earn more $$$ for keeping up my high cost in marine. My monthly bills are high and mostly to sustain my marine tank.
Now work load is so hyper less, I login for some mopiko soothing, LOL. Feel relax with mopiko tradition.
Its nice to still see you around here.
If time permits, I will come back to seahorse real soon but before that, I must find a reliable source on live shrimp.
My seahorses always have problems after I started to feed them live shrimps.
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I will never stop so how to vote? There is no option for me to choose.
Why there is option less than 5 times but no more than 5 times? LOL.
Usually if my tank condition permits, I will not stop. Always ask yourself what when wrong and change the attitude, be more responsible.
Plan before proceeding.
That way I always succeeded.
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6-8 chromis for a 2ft tank wont be too many????
I would suggest peaceful and hardy fish.
Firefish will jump off your tank if harrassed.
Some clowns are fierce.
For me I prefer 2 chromis or false clowns.
For starters, always will overfeed so this way the tank will mature just nice the way you need.
You can slowly add-up 1-2 fishes every 1-2 months.
Just follow the rule of maximum fish and minimum LR. That way you will not be stressed on corroded water.
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it is going to hell, LOL
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He had settled the problem in Nov 2007 after buying the sensor. A follow-up, he was happy that his problem is solved.
This article blogger guy is a freshwater hobbyist. The sensor probe is made of metal and poor insulated. It will rust easily and damaged within few months. When it start to corrode in saltwater and all your fishes/corals will immigrate to heaven/hell, LOL.
Freshwater fishes will withstand metals corrosion better but not marine fishes.
By the way, please let this thread close as what it suppose to be.
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Hey reefers. why is my NO3 consistantly so ridiculously high? this has been going on for months liao with no adverse effects on my livestock.. even my corals. i know its bad. i nearly fainted when i saw a reading of 100ppm on my salifert test kit. the best i can maintain it at is 40ppm but it always seem to climb back so high rapidly. i have done alot of things to ensure my NO3 remain as low as possible but somehow it never falls below 40ppm.
i have reduced feedings to 2 times a day, i feed mostly pellets now.
i do regular water changes almost everyweek. except when im too busy, then its once every 2 weeks.
i always thaw frozen foods and never mix the juice with my water, except henry's food (which i seldom use nowadays becoz of my no3 problem)
tank was cycled properly.
i even got rid of my Moorish Idol partly due to the NO3 problem. as u know, big fish = more NO3
but i can assure that nothing looks dead or dying. everything is fine and growing. i know constantly high NO3 can be detrimental to livestock, but so many months and its like this still...
my tank is predominantly made up of LPS and softies, and another reefer told me that as long as livestock seem fine, i shouldnt be worried. beginning when i test my NO3 so high i was naturally quite worried. but after doing all this stuff i realised that the NO3 still somewhat the same after months but nothing die yet. so i just ignore it...
one reason perhaps is my not so high turnover rate? its not 10x as people reccomend. probably 6x only...becoz of the pump and the small piping, changing to another better pump is difficult...
will adding a denitrator help?
oh ya i also removed all bioball and rings from my sump.
First of all, are you overstock of fishes or less liverock, refugium?
Secondly, reduce feeding to maximum once a day. I have fedup feeding so I only feed frozen mysis once in 3 days since 1.5 years ago. The fishes still remain healthy and never change water, even a bit since 4-5 years ago.
Thirdly water turnover rate is too low to flow through everywhere. So lots of dead spots. Just add seio pump or whatever high flow pump.
Fishes can tolerate high nitrate but not nitrite and ammonia. Corals can only tolerate nitrate up to certain level, depends on types of corals too.
Help! Velvet!
in Disease treatment/parasite/pest control
Posted
Well, if used copper with LR, you can say bye bye to these LR.
Remark: Please dont sell these coppered LR to people. Throw away, please!