jsoon

I got this SCWD from a Marine Shop and I realise that it is a "lemon" set where after a week of using, the water flow can only go one direction. Initially, I though something was jam inside and cause the water blockage but after taking it out and washing and flushing it, I realise that when I pump a tap water at high pressure into the SCWD unit (simulate a pump), the water only gushes out from one end but has a very low flow out the other. (where the fault is) I did an inspection by shining a torchlight into the hole and realise that the low outlet flow seems to have a white plastic screw missing. Any advice ???? I called up the shop for advice and if I can return for exchange or servicing but received a lukewarm response. I guess the policy is once sold and broken, consider too bad !!!!!

I think they know that some reefers are complaining in the forum.... You need to have some good basic knowledge b'cos they tend to pull on you if they know u are a green horn... Just across the road in Central Clementi, where they sell HandPhones, they are trying to rip off people of the prices...

Thanks for your advice. I was going home to do the drilling when I realise that the area where the tank is flooded with water My block has just got another electrical failure and the SCWD has a reverse flow.... Mop the floor for already 4 hours !!!!!!!! Started to drill a small hole just above the outlet pipe and did a few dry runs and it works. Thank you.

Hi all, Thanks for the advice. siphon break is what I looking for. OK. My SCWD is connected at the return on top of the tank. I have 2 pipes on the left and right of the SCWD. Both pipes are above the water (acutally sitting on my tank). Where should I drill the small hole where the safety point is ?

We have heard of the US power failure and then follow by other countries like UK, Malaysia and early this mornig at 2am my whole block got a power failure Luckily I woke up in time and prevent a disaster from happening. I use a SCWD and connect my main outlet pump to my SCWD unit to create the different wave directions. I realise that if there is a power failure to the main pump, the high water pressure from the main tank will reserve flow back into my sump tank via the SCWD. This will result in a disaster if the water overflow the sump into my floor. I am now thinking how to prevent this and would like to ask advice from the forum. I though about it and if there is an inlet of air when the water flow back, it will create a air pocket and thus water will stop flowing down. This is similar to using a hose to suck out water from the main tank sitting on top of a stand to a bucket belpw. The water pressure will push down the hose into the bucket but when we introduce air into the hose, the water will stop. The problem is how can we modify our oulet pipe to have some air hose. Beside, this, I am thinking of investing into a UPS but am not sure what the electrical consumption will be liked as I heard that they are in KV rating which is higher than my chiller rating.

OK...will try to spot on and take photo. Thanks for the info.

I change the wording Guardian Anti-Chlorine solution. The solution seems to make the water chalky than usual and PS foam out more than before.

I edit my thread. I put lighting generally for all coral but Yes, sun corals need shade and light. My uncle has one in his tank and he place it below the LR under the shade. Feeding is one of the toughest - brine shrimp etc

Yes, sun corals are one of the most beauty corals. A few places have them, Hawa** M, ML etc. Actually, all corals needs lighting and all corals needs supplements and feedings. Sun corals need shading with lights. You may need to put it in a small container and pull it out to feed it for some time.

Hi, Does anyone has use the new Guardian Anti-Chlorine solution. I did some water change last night and prepare my new salt water but added this product above. The water was mix for a while and I pour into my sump tank and I am surprise that my water turn a bit chalky not crytsal clear like the last time I change water with Sea water. The PS also foaming more than usual/ I tested all water parameters and is within acceptable range.

Cookie, PM you liao

Anyone know where I can make a round tank. See picture

Hi, I think I saw an aiptasia clingling to the wall of my tank about 5mm big. It look like a starfish and move pretty fast and within half an hour, it crawl into on of the LR. After reading this thread, I think I ID it wrong. How do we spot aiptasia again and lure them out ?

Hi all, thnks for the advice. So far, the two tangs are using their backside to put each other and no nibbling so far. Maybe, I will monitor the situation and if need be move 1 LR rocks away. Sigh!!!! This YT has been with the tank for a year and is the most peace-loving of all.

I only have a Power Blue and Yellow Tang in my Reef tank since last week and they each were happily living side by side. Today, my hand itching and I got 2 small clown fish to add into my 3 feet tank and a few hours later, I notice that the Power Blue was very territorial and chase away my Yellow Tang. The other 2 small clown were not even bother at all and were not occupying any spaces that the Yellow and PB Tang used to stay. What should I do ?

ML also has another product. U can ask Henry.

Me interested in harlequin too and purple tang Any corals to sell ?

Well, let give him the credit. He did a good job to locate this info. I read it all YES SIR !!!!!

AT, You are right about bio-ball being soaked in sump of water and it will become useless in its effectiveness. So, do you think, I should put back my bio-balls into the overflow ? The only issue is that I need to clean any excessive alage that has collected with the bio-ball and at the edge of the glass in the overflow.

AT, Thanks for the quick reply. I agree DSB is the cheapest and most effective way for Reef tank but now I am moving on from FO to Reef tank and my filter system is a Wet/Dry one and I can't convert my sump to DSB. I did add a 4" DSB in my main tank but it will take too long for maturity. Now, I took out the 3/4 of my bio-balls from my overflow and have yet to decide to reuse it. Should I place the bio-ball into my sump where the water inflow is ? What do you think of getting those LR with plants adn putting into the main tank ? It look nice and absorb the nitrate ????

Does anyone has the formulae or recipe to create food fish for all range of fishes. I am trying it out but not sure...here it is... Buy 1. oyster, green veggie, prawns, small pieces of fishes, added vitamin, spirulina. 2. Add a bit of water and put all into grinder and grind until the food becomes a thick paste. 3. Use a ice-cube container and put the paste into it. 4. Freeze the paste and put into chiller. 5. Every other day, take a cube of the paste and maw it and feed to LS. Any suggestions ?

This has been troubling me for some time. I used to put bio-balls into my overflow box and sump tank as I use to read that bio-balls are effective tools to create a trickling effect allow more oxygen to interact with the water. However, some folks tells me that it effectiveness is also its weakness as it create more nitrate. IS THIS TRUE ???? So far, I'd visited a few LFS and each employs different filteration system. PR uses trickle without bio-balls, ML uses DSB, LCK uses spray-bars, HMA uses UV, Haw** Marine uses bio-balls. TO BIO-BALLS or not BIO-BALLS ???? THAT IS THE QUESTION !!!

Oh yeah!!! My 2 cents worth... leather, polyps, mushroom...they can survive for short period with low lighting. When I moved my tank, I left my corals with a friend and he doesn't have very good lighting. Only those hardy corals like what I list above survive the 1 month period when my tank was cycling. Do take note that not all corals can be put side by side as they will "fight" each other with "chemical warfare".

This is Holland tank !!! First time I see clog shoe as decoration for tank. My wife will kill me if I put my Holland clog shoe into my tank. Very creative and innovative design.

Yeah! Nitrite or Nitrate. It seems like Nitrate to me. If nitrite do not fall, then the biological filter is not working well. If it nitrate which is the breakdown of nitrite, which is due to a good bioloigcal filter, then we have to figure if it is because of the bio-balls. Some folk do not advocate bio-balls as it increase the nitrate instead. What do the rest of us think ?