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Splutter

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  1. Hi. The intake pipe is just the same male plug as the outlet plug. It allows the intake to be from a pipe instead of placing the entire pump in water. Anyway I'm on a budget so I think your pump is a little too new and expensive for me. Thanks for the offer though.
  2. Hi All, I'm looking for a Eheim 1250 pump. I'll be running it externally so I'll need the intake pipe that comes along. Please sms me at 98157341 if you have one up for sale, thanks!
  3. SLT does sell thermal epoxy by the name of fujik, but it seems that a lot of folks that don't know exactly what they are selling, haha.
  4. Thanks bro! Still think it pales in comparison to so many other DIYs here though. Someday I'll add a PWM when I come back to marine =)
  5. More views of the final product =)
  6. My girlfriend helped me with the acrylic construction and I think she did a very nice job =) The acrylic bolts I got to screw in the tail plates The new 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistors I got to limit current The new Mean Well voltage regulators - 24v, 700mA How everything looks after powering up!
  7. sherman - I understand those. However, I'm driving the LEDs at 700mA now instead of the original 1000mA. Will there be room to play for the fluctuations?
  8. So anyway, I ditched the idea of using this voltage regulator as the output voltage wasn't very stable. As I was running the circuit without any current limiting resistor, it led to unstable current load as well. The regulator died out after a while. I went back to the drawing table and opted for a dual AC/DC switching supply instead where I hooked up 5 LEDs + a resistor to a single regulator at 24v, 700mA. Some of my calculations: Voltage drop across 1 LED at 700mA = 3.5v Voltage drop across 5 LEDs at 700mA = 5 x 3.5 = 17.5v Voltage across resistor required = 24v - 17.5v = 6.5v Resistance of resistor required = 6.5v/700mA = 9.285ohms Wattage of resistor required = 6.5v x 700mA = 4.55w Resistor eventually used : 10 ohms, 10 watts as I wanted to be on the safe side for heat dissipation I also bought 2 new Mean Well switching regulators at SLT again. Wired up everything according to this circuit diagram:
  9. Sherman, each LED voltage drop is between 3.3v - 3.7v, depending on what current you want to drive it at. So 5 x 3.3 = 16.5v and 5 x 3.7 = 18.5v. It's sufficient to drive. Ideally I would want to get a 3mm aluminum plate, but unfortunately my neighbourhood store only has 1mm. I was a little hesitant to get it from the industrial areas as it's just too much trouble. 1mm was more than strong enough to hold everything for a 2ft setup. I would highly suggest something thicker if it's going to be bigger in size. Jameshong, well I got pretty inspired by your post =P But I think my design is easier as I tried to minimize acrylic work on my end. I'm very new to working on this and I even broke a few drill bits trying to drill some small holes. Can't imagine what damage I'll cause if I tried to drill the 10mm and 65mm holes myself, haha.
  10. Testing connection - it works! The 2 fans I got to cool things down. Both are rated at 12V, 0.09A from Nidec The customised acrylic pieces - they cost quite a bit to order, nearly $130 =( Screwing in my fans after drilling the mounting holes myself. I put in rubber grommets to dampen the vibrations as well. Snapping in the lighted rocker switches. One for the lights and one for the fans.
  11. Correct bro, its from Deal Extreme. I think it's the cheapest I could find already. I still have 10 extra LEDs on hand if anybody wants to get them.
  12. Christmas came early! Each CREE LED is individually wrapped in bubble wrap The LEDs themselves After mounting them on the aluminum plate via thermal epoxy The LED driver - unfortunately not very good (I'll explain later) Heatsinks to be stuck on the back of the aluminum plate
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