SRC Member southpaw23 Posted September 12, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 12, 2003 Hi there everyone.... I know that this question has been asked before and was told that i could find it over at Sim Lim Towers etc..but i had a friend go over there to look for it and everyone he asked there looked at him like he was from Mars or sumthin....No luck there.... Just wondering if anyone could point me to the right direction in obtaining one of these. And even better yet....if someone already has one or could purchase one for me...i'll gladly pay for the shipping cost or arrange for my friend to get it from you in Singapore (he's in the Bedok area). See, i live in KL and i can't seem to find any place that sells them apart from this LFS called 88 Marine and those crazy buggers wanted RM280 it....according to them, it's their own design etc.....BS if you ask me...all they did was buy a float switch and attached a snail guard to it and had their name printed on the snail guard...go figure..... Sorry for the bitching....been having trouble finding me one of these which is why i'm resorting to looking for it in singapore seeing that i've seem a few threads of ppl setting up auto top off systems. Anyone kind enough to help a fellow reefer out? Quote Tank 66"x27"x28" - Return Pump Red Dragon 12m3 - Skimmer Deltec AP701 - Chiller Starmex - Wavemakers Wavysea - Lighting DE 6 x T5-HO southpaw23's reef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 12, 2003 Share Posted September 12, 2003 I got mine here: http://www.farnellinone.com/ $10+ only, clearance sale. Also bought some other things. $50 they provide free delivery (singapore only) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member southpaw23 Posted September 12, 2003 Author SRC Member Share Posted September 12, 2003 Thanx for the quick reply crab.... went on the site to check it out...it seems that there are a number of different float switches ranging in different prices...how do i know which one to get?...and is the offer still on for the $10 float switch?..... thanx again for ur help.... Quote Tank 66"x27"x28" - Return Pump Red Dragon 12m3 - Skimmer Deltec AP701 - Chiller Starmex - Wavemakers Wavysea - Lighting DE 6 x T5-HO southpaw23's reef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 Thanx for the quick reply crab.... went on the site to check it out...it seems that there are a number of different float switches ranging in different prices...how do i know which one to get?...and is the offer still on for the $10 float switch?..... thanx again for ur help.... Just guess from the specs. The one I bought is product code 730658. Exact price $19.11, usual price I think $30+. You can call the customer service to check. They're quite helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member ervine Posted September 15, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 15, 2003 that's really cheap man!... u mean u bought in bulk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 that's really cheap man!... u mean u bought in bulk? I bought 1 piece. Is it cheap? How much did others quote you? and where? P.S. The one I bought is not meant to run on AC 230 volts. You need to add a relay. There's other models that can be connected directly to the mains, not getting those because I find it risky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member southpaw23 Posted September 16, 2003 Author SRC Member Share Posted September 16, 2003 Dang....that's all sounding pretty complicated, i wasn't planning on adding a relay to the float switch, which one of them doesn't require for me to connect one to it? Or is that highly recommended? See, i've been doing alot of reading on Nano-reef.com and i guess the problem there is that their voltage is not rated at 200 over so most of them just connect their float switches directly to their connection points etc....and i figured it was applicable to those of us in Malaysia and Singapore as well.....am i wrong to assume this? And are float switches really that expensive? Anyone know where else i can find a float switch? The model you quoted me is going for about RM 85....that's pretty costly i thought....any other alternative places where i can find one o these? oh and thanx again for all the useful info Crab. Quote Tank 66"x27"x28" - Return Pump Red Dragon 12m3 - Skimmer Deltec AP701 - Chiller Starmex - Wavemakers Wavysea - Lighting DE 6 x T5-HO southpaw23's reef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member Cookiemunster Posted September 16, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 16, 2003 Dang....that's all sounding pretty complicated, i wasn't planning on adding a relay to the float switch, which one of them doesn't require for me to connect one to it? Or is that highly recommended? See, i've been doing alot of reading on Nano-reef.com and i guess the problem there is that their voltage is not rated at 200 over so most of them just connect their float switches directly to their connection points etc....and i figured it was applicable to those of us in Malaysia and Singapore as well.....am i wrong to assume this? And are float switches really that expensive? Anyone know where else i can find a float switch? The model you quoted me is going for about RM 85....that's pretty costly i thought....any other alternative places where i can find one o these? oh and thanx again for all the useful info Crab. Bro please becareful. Are you sure you know what you are doing? Reason being, to directly connect a float switch to 220Vac is super dangerous. Thats like waiting for an accident to happen. I know its cheap to DIY but pls do it only when you are very sure of electrical safety etc. Never dip anything that has a 220Vac into the water when its a DIY equipment unless you really know what you are doing. The float switch wires are only epoxy sealed to prevent leaks. In due time, that can possibly leak and stray current will escape into the tank. Imagine if thats 220Vac stray current!!! Unless you get the very expensive type of float switches meant for AC voltages, a cheap less than $20 float switch should never never be connected in this way. Quote My Humble 4ft tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member southpaw23 Posted September 16, 2003 Author SRC Member Share Posted September 16, 2003 Thanx for the quick reply and advice Cookiemunster. Like i mentioned earlier, the only reason why i'm askin if it's possible to hook it up directly is simply because that's what was being done in the US but i suppose they're different over there in that their voltage only goes up to 110 but still don't see how it's possible for them to do it either seeing that that's a pretty high voltage as well. So in saying all this....u mind pointing me in the right direction in building an auto topoff unit? I guess if you know some one who has ready made one's, that'll be helpful as well.....but thanx again for ur input.... Quote Tank 66"x27"x28" - Return Pump Red Dragon 12m3 - Skimmer Deltec AP701 - Chiller Starmex - Wavemakers Wavysea - Lighting DE 6 x T5-HO southpaw23's reef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 You're most welcome southpaw23. Your assumptions are correct. You can connect directly, but need to ensure the equipment/power supply do not exceed the rating of the float switch you're getting. The reliability (water proofing) is up to your judgement. Most float switches are rated at low amperes, it is risky to use on large pumps/lights/chiller. To work around it, I choose to install a properly rated relay. This is the block diagram of my water top up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 This is the electrical connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member killfire Posted September 16, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 16, 2003 Hi, I noticed the float switch from Farnell product code 730658, has 3 leads (blue, red and green). When I checked them with a multimeter, only the red and green combination indicate changes in resistance when the switch is moved to the extreme positions... are these the two leads that you use to connect up your circuit to the relay? Then what about the the blue lead? what did you do with it??? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 Hi, I noticed the float switch from Farnell product code 730658, has 3 leads (blue, red and green). When I checked them with a multimeter, only the red and green combination indicate changes in resistance when the switch is moved to the extreme positions... are these the two leads that you use to connect up your circuit to the relay? Then what about the the blue lead? what did you do with it??? Thanks If I remember correctly, when the red & green is on, the blue & green (or blue & red) will turn off. And vice versa. I don't use the blue lead. The relay can be configured to do the same thing. But this is not neccessary for the auto-top up. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member killfire Posted September 16, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 16, 2003 If I remember correctly, when the red & green is on, the blue & green (or blue & red) will turn off. And vice versa. I don't use the blue lead. The relay can be configured to do the same thing. But this is not neccessary for the auto-top up. Hope this helps. hmmm... *blur* or can the red lead be the load (red&green to relay), and the blue and green to power supply (12V in your case)... can help me to check...else will have to experiment... What type of relay are you using? Thinking of a double pole double throw. Thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 hmmm... *blur* or can the red lead be the load (red&green to relay), and the blue and green to power supply (12V in your case)... No, you've to think of it as an ordinary switch. If red & green goes on and off when you move the float slider, then these two lead will be connected like this. Red lead to +12V, green lead to relay. What type of relay are you using? Thinking of a double pole double throw. Too "chim" for me, donno what "double pole double throw" is. Maybe you want to share with me? I'm not electronic trained actually. I uses a relay that is 12V DC for the coil, and 230V AC with 10Amp for the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member killfire Posted September 17, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 17, 2003 hmmm ... still wondering what the blue lead is.. it doesn't matter whether the green or red lead goes to the + or - of the 12Vdc supply. It will work both ways... Will use a double pole single throw (DPST) relay instead (not electrically trained as well, thats why terminology all screwed up). The #pole#throw are just names given to relays depending of their function. by the way, is there a reason for the airtight jerry can + airpump method? I am thinking of using a reservoir + submersible pump or powerhead instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 17, 2003 Share Posted September 17, 2003 by the way, is there a reason for the airtight jerry can + airpump method? I am thinking of using a reservoir + submersible pump or powerhead instead. In fact I've changed from reservoir + powerhead method. Reason: -Slimmer tubing -Reservoir may invite mosquito breeding -Air pump consume lessor power, a small one will work -Jellycan occupies lessor space, cos it's taller and slimmer -Water topup in jellycan is easier, just carry it to the toilet. Need long pipes from toilet to topup reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member killfire Posted September 17, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 17, 2003 Thanks...for the info... but think i will stick to the reservoir (a big pail) and powerhead... simpler setup, no worries about air seals... only need the auto top up when I am away from home... else will just do manual topping up every night.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 Thanks...for the info... but think i will stick to the reservoir (a big pail) and powerhead... simpler setup, no worries about air seals... only need the auto top up when I am away from home... else will just do manual topping up every night.. BTW, jerry can is air tight originally. I have checked my float switch. Hope you know what the blue lead is now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member killfire Posted September 18, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 18, 2003 BTW, jerry can is air tight originally. I have checked my float switch. Hope you know what the blue lead is now. Hey... i don't think that is how the switch operates... do a simple measurement... if you test the blue and green leads with a multimeter, you will find that blue and green is always an open circuit irregardless of the position of the float. If the switch operation is accurately represented in your diagram, it would have been better to use the blue-green leads rather than the red-green combination since Slide in lower position = blue-green closes = pump operates Slide in upper position = blue-green opens = pump stops operating but that is not the case....!! Do you have a pic of your setup?? Have sent an e-mail to the manufacturer to seek details but have yet to receive any replies. will let you know once it comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crab Posted September 18, 2003 Share Posted September 18, 2003 My diagram is conformed accurate. Suspect your switch is faulty. I do not have a pic of my setup using the switch. Actually I'm using a different switch (purchased 4-5 years ago) for the water topup. Difference is the switch "trigger point". e.g. switch is closed when water level is 5 inches high, and switch is opened when water level is 7 inches high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member killfire Posted September 18, 2003 SRC Member Share Posted September 18, 2003 thanks for the info.. will hook it up this weekend and run some tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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