Connecting JBJ HQ1 nano to a chiller

[reefer_cosmo]

Hi guys,

The LFS guys just send me a spanking new JBJ HQ1 nano-cube, with cabinet stand. They were kind enough to set up the HQ1 for me, but the connection to my existing Resun CL280 chiller was left to myself.

Firstly, I must say I learned the HARD way how to connect a chiller to a nano. The main hurdle being the SMALL filter sump area at the back. If you were to purchase a small powerhead (pump) measuring 4cm x 6cm, the power output is not enough to pump the water flow one complete cycle (from tank to chiller, then back to tank).

So, had to try many different combinations with multiple changes of pump sizes (yes, I have quite a few of them) ... different tube connections, inside display area, also at the filter sump. In the process, TWICE my temporary tube connection (not fasten with cable ties yet) came loose and flooded my floor. Lots of scrambling to clean up before the saltwater damages any electrical equipment.

Thus, now my contribution to this forum: How to sucessfully connect the HQ1 to a chiller, yet retain the pulse wave maker function.

Step 1: Buy yourself a small 4cm x 6cm powerhead, I bought the Hilea brand. Get the tube that fits onto this powerhead. Just 30 cm will do. Buy some cable ties, and buy those white plumbing tape.

Step 2: Insert the tube into the powerhead outlet socket, cable tie it, and trim off excess. Seal the connection between the powerhead, socket and the tube with white plumbing tape. Cut down the remaining tube to around 15 cm.

Step 3: Disconnect one of the two pluse wave powerhead that came with the HQ1. Disconnect both the electrical socket and also the water tube from the powerhead to the L-shape plastic connector.

Step 4: Connect the small powerhead that you created in step 2 to the above-said L-shape plastic connector in step 3. Cable tie it, so that everything is securely fasten! You don't want my kind of flooding experience!

Step 5: Take the larger water tube to/from the INLET of your chiller and connect it to the water tube of the disconnected pluse wave powerhead in step 3. Cable tie the connection, fasten it tight! If you don't another flooding incident waiting for you.

Step 6: Connect the electrical socket of the pluse wave powerhead in step 3/5 to a regular power socket. Now it instantly becomes a regular powerhead pump, a powerful one too! Able to push the water in a full cycle.

Step 7: Connect the electrical socket of the small powerhead in step 4 to the "pluse wave duo" control box. And you have it, alternating pluse wave generation function still retained, while utilizing the supplied powerful powerhead to power your chiller water cycle.

I need not describe how to have your chilled water return to your tank, do I? *grin* Just be careful not to flood your whole house. But I trust with this guide based on my actual experience, you will do much better than me!

Best part of all, no ugly powerhead in the display tank area, and still able to retain the pluse wave maker function. Wow.

Hope that this helps the next new owner of a JBJ HQ1.

[scrach]

Hi Reefer Como

Would you have photos for your step by step?

Am new to reefing and have a Nano Tank and thinking of adding a chiller.

Thanks! Scrach

[reefer_cosmo]

Hi Reefer Como

Would you have photos for your step by step?

Am new to reefing and have a Nano Tank and thinking of adding a chiller.

Thanks! Scrach

Hi Scrach,

Sorry, no photos. Everything already placed into the water system. Now cycling and I don't want to disturb the process by disconnecting the pumps to take photos. Hope that you understand. However, if you have further clarifications (especially with regards to the JBJ HQ1 model), do ask me and I can help answer your questions.

One additional note: You can try a smaller pump for the chiller water cycle if you place the chiller on the same height (level) as your tank. For my case, my tank is around 32 inches high on the cabinet, and having to add the tank's height also ... and my chiller on the floor, this creates a lot of resistant for the water flow (up/down ... coil, up again). Thus, I needed a larger and more powerful pump to drive the chiller water cycle.

Tips: Look at a pump/powerhead specs, there is always a "head" rating in meters. Also a flow-rate at "L/hr". You will need to match the flow-rate of the pump to the recommended flow rate of the chiller. And pay attention to the "head" in meters, as that means how high the pump can pump the water.

[reefer_cosmo]

pictures

[reefer_cosmo]

more pictures

[reefer_cosmo]

equipment pics

[reefer_cosmo]

more equipment shots

[wil_lee76]

bro, maybe u can consider...shifting the frospawn onto one of the rocks...it will be much more better...and nicer...overall...thanks for the input!1

[reefer_cosmo]

bro, maybe u can consider...shifting the frospawn onto one of the rocks...it will be much more better...and nicer...overall...thanks for the input!1

Thanks for your suggestion Bro, but my frogspawn did not survive the Clam Trio death. Some sort of Clam virus, once the 1st clam starts to die and decompose inside the tank, even after removing it ... the rest follow the 1st one soon after.

Big clams pollute the water big time when they starts to rot inside the tank. The 2nd clam, I was able to ascertain the period between the last time I checked on it, and the next time that I saw it dead, was only 3 hours to 4 hours ... but the tank was totally cloudy and Ammonia level spike real fast.

Once the famous Trio saga was over, I lost almost 40% to 50% of my livestocks. The 2nd picture from the top is what my current tank looks like. The 3rd clam's death was the worst ... had to transfer everything out to QT, and do a flush out of the tank's water ... almost 100% water change.

As for the following pictures: Skimmer after 4 hours of work (from the skimmer picture posted above), and the compartment that the chilled water return to the tank.

[reefer_cosmo]

more pictures: skimmer after 16 hours of work (from the original pic that I posted above), and a pic showing the chiller on the floor ... how the tubes are connected. By the way, Resun CL280 cannot fit into the cabinet that came with the JBJ Nano 28g HQI ... just to let bros out there know this fact. It's a few inches taller than the compartment below.

[kareen]

Sad to hear that....

Clams are pretty hardy and they look alright when the photo taken.... Can I ask you something.... before the clams died, how was the purple sponge doing? Did you observe any declining sign on the sponges? If yes, I believe that is the starter that init the whole chain of death.... My motive here is to alert the inexperiences reefers the sponges' toxics. Read up about the species before any purchase next time

[reefer_cosmo]

Sad to hear that....

Clams are pretty hardy and they look alright when the photo taken.... Can I ask you something.... before the clams died, how was the purple sponge doing? Did you observe any declining sign on the sponges? If yes, I believe that is the starter that init the whole chain of death.... My motive here is to alert the inexperiences reefers the sponges' toxics. Read up about the species before any purchase next time

Sponges are very toxic? I didn't know that, bought it becoz it was really colourful. Now that you mentioned it, you are right, the purple sponge was showing some signs of "melting" and disintegration prior to the 1st clam starts to die.

For the 1st and 2nd clam that died, i only did 25% water change ... that must be the problem, the toxin is still in the system ... my carbon must have been already fully used up by then. (i have activated carbon and rowaphos in little bags of netting)

[kareen]

Well, since you say that, highly that is the start of the chain reaction.... if you remove the sponges in time, then probably no serious damage.... I know 'cos I have tried sponges before.... Can you imagine a small piece of sponge's toxic, even the volume of water is 4ft tank plus 3ft sump couldn't take it? I remove it after 2-3 days in tank when I observe funny behavior from other corals...

If you want to try out sponges, go for those photosynthesis type like the so called elephant ear sponges and not those colourful ones. The colourful ones are non photsynthesis type and required matured tank to strive.... even so, it is kind of hard also 'cos most sponges shipped poorly... mainly due to air trapped within the sponges will cause it to die off..

[reefer_cosmo]

Well, since you say that, highly that is the start of the chain reaction.... if you remove the sponges in time, then probably no serious damage.... I know 'cos I have tried sponges before.... Can you imagine a small piece of sponge's toxic, even the volume of water is 4ft tank plus 3ft sump couldn't take it? I remove it after 2-3 days in tank when I observe funny behavior from other corals...

If you want to try out sponges, go for those photosynthesis type like the so called elephant ear sponges and not those colourful ones. The colourful ones are non photsynthesis type and required matured tank to strive.... even so, it is kind of hard also 'cos most sponges shipped poorly... mainly due to air trapped within the sponges will cause it to die off..

Ya boy, thanks for the pointer. I did up some reading on the internet, and yeap ... they are damn toxic. Becoz they do not move, their only defense against predation is their high toxicity level. It's placed so close to the clams, no wonder. And you are right on funny behaviours prior to the chain of death, other corals were oozing defensive slime/chemicals for no reason (that my eyes can see) ... never notice any fish go disturb them, nor any coral touching.

Then, the anemone that was near the purple sponge starts running away from it. Now that u mentioned it, the signs all fit into the picture nicely. Just that I wasn't experienced enough to take proactive action, I even think how harmless the purple sponge was!! So cute, the one that I was least wary of, ends up to be the grim ripper.

[kareen]

Glad that u've learned something....