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Wanting to Start a Nano Reef Tank!


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I will be running the return pump externally for the chiller if I feel there is a need. Two small PVC pipes will be running from the back for the tank, one on right and one on left.

Will run the fan if i monitor that my water temp runs about 28degrees. Need to save to buy 2nd hand chiller la. Hahaha.

I've been reading up on the Algae scrubbing. Seems like something I would be doing. Am pretty sure these Unicellular organisms would be more efficient than Chaeto. Thanks for the suggestion!

Back to the drawing board! Main Topic: HOW TO INCLUDE SCRUBBING UNIT IN COMPARTMENT 6"x12"x18".

p.s. No tank maker yet. So far emailed Vincent from AA and WeeYang from N30. Had replies but still yet to finalize my tank.

Hi bro,

I am currently selling one of the best brand chiller: Arctica 1/10.

Check my thread in Pasar Malam. I stay is the East too.

Cheers!

(-_-) Happy will do ... (o_o)

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Finally met up with Vincent a few days back and now after my second meeting we have solved how to include a nano algae scrubber in the design!

Will be running chiller and par38 led lights.

Keeping my fingers crossed as the design is pretty tricky.

Hopefully all goes well and my tank will be booming with coral growth!

Will post up a sketch of my coral locations when I'm back later. Yep! =)

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Finally met up with Vincent a few days back and now after my second meeting we have solved how to include a nano algae scrubber in the design!

Will be running chiller and par38 led lights.

Keeping my fingers crossed as the design is pretty tricky.

Hopefully all goes well and my tank will be booming with coral growth!

Will post up a sketch of my coral locations when I'm back later. Yep! =)

From your design refugium is at last section after return section.

How is water going to feed to refugium?

Tank Spec :

Display tank : 48" x 24" x 18."'(H)

Sump tank : 25" x 23" x 18"(H)

Return pump : Reef Octopus 8000

Wave Maker : Vortech MP10Wes

Lighting : DIY LED (Cree led) 60 bulb

Chiller : helia 55hs

Skimmer : BM Curve 7

Controller : Reef Angel

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Few more point to add.

1. If your return pump at the back may difficult to see water level to top up manually. If you have auto top up will help a lot. using fan really need to top up alot of water.

2. for return section 5" by 5" may need to check size of return pump first.

Tank Spec :

Display tank : 48" x 24" x 18."'(H)

Sump tank : 25" x 23" x 18"(H)

Return pump : Reef Octopus 8000

Wave Maker : Vortech MP10Wes

Lighting : DIY LED (Cree led) 60 bulb

Chiller : helia 55hs

Skimmer : BM Curve 7

Controller : Reef Angel

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I will be using a chiller so there is no longer a need for the fan. I have also changed the design to exclude the Refugium. I will be running a nano algae scrubber instead.

All calculations are done by myself and have double checked with the Tank Maker himself. It should be fine.

Attached is my latest sketch of the tank.

This is the latest plan bros! Please do comment on the intended placements of the individual corals.

Many Thanks! =)

post-18173-12763607422935_thumb.jpg

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I will be using a chiller so there is no longer a need for the fan. I have also changed the design to exclude the Refugium. I will be running a nano algae scrubber instead.

All calculations are done by myself and have double checked with the Tank Maker himself. It should be fine.

Attached is my latest sketch of the tank.

This is the latest plan bros! Please do comment on the intended placements of the individual corals.

Many Thanks! =)

I suggest you pump the water back to the tank direct from the scrubber. I do not want to trap all the pods in the filters.

My previous try with acrylic holding the IOS failed miserably. It warp too much under pressure.

I suggest maker to use a slightly thinner glass, then cover it with a 3mm acrylic.

Regards,

Billy Cheong

70gal, 250w MH (Reeflux 12000K), Tunze Nano Wavebox 6206, Tunze 6045, Tunze 6025, Teco TW4, Rio HF20, Aquabee 3000L, Rio HF17, SM100 Scrubber box (4x24w T5 2700K)

Fish: Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clowns), Nemateleotris magnifica (Firefish), Pterapogon kauderni (Kaudern's Cardinal)

Inverts: Calcinus laevimanus (Hermit Crab), Lysmata amboinensis (Cleaner Shrimp), Sand Dollar

Corals: Capnella (Purple Hairy Finger Leather), Plerogyra sinuosa (Green Bubble Coral), Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral), Dendrophyllia (Supersun Coral), Rhodactis spp. (Hairy Mushroom)

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I suggest you pump the water back to the tank direct from the scrubber. I do not want to trap all the pods in the filters.

My previous try with acrylic holding the IOS failed miserably. It warp too much under pressure.

I suggest maker to use a slightly thinner glass, then cover it with a 3mm acrylic.

The whole tank will be constructed out of 8mm glass. Water will flow down the screen to be collected in a shallow reservoir which will be channelled to a chiller under the tank. This is so as to keep the water level low in the reservoir to maximize the screen surface area out of the water. There will be no filters to trap pods. probably just a mesh to ensure that algae does not follow into my pump.

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The current design uses a PAR38 14k XPG from Aquarium Artiste. I'm wondering if it would be better to use Maxspect G2-110W. Can anyone please inform me as to whether the Maxspect G2-110W can fit the width of 12" which is 1 foot? One more thing, what is the difference between with and without the CREE upgrade for the lights?

The project is currently in the works of $1k! Haven't even add the media, chemicals, rocks, corals and live stock. The addition of the Maxspect will set me back even more! Gonna go broke soon. =/

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About 2-3 more weeks for the arrival of my tank! Heheh. Can't wait!

Is it me or do you guys realize that the Marine Fishes are way easier to keep than the Corals?! lol.

Congrats..

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The current design uses a PAR38 14k XPG from Aquarium Artiste. I'm wondering if it would be better to use Maxspect G2-110W. Can anyone please inform me as to whether the Maxspect G2-110W can fit the width of 12" which is 1 foot? One more thing, what is the difference between with and without the CREE upgrade for the lights?

The project is currently in the works of $1k! Haven't even add the media, chemicals, rocks, corals and live stock. The addition of the Maxspect will set me back even more! Gonna go broke soon. =/

"dimnesionally" as i know the G2 is the same as G1, meaning the width will be about around 1.5 ft. maybe jacky can shed some inputs as he is using the G2.

25 Gal Micro Ocean

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If I am not wrong the G2-110W is only 180mm wide which would fit my tank. I have already mailed De-lighting. Yes, they said it is possible just that I have to cut the Aluminium Bracket short so as to mount it for 12" wide.

Heard a rumor that there is gonna be a new line of led lights being brought in round July. Waiting to decided since my tank is still not ready.

Seriously praying hard that all goes well and my ATS is a success! =)

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I will be using a chiller so there is no longer a need for the fan. I have also changed the design to exclude the Refugium. I will be running a nano algae scrubber instead.

All calculations are done by myself and have double checked with the Tank Maker himself. It should be fine.

Attached is my latest sketch of the tank.

This is the latest plan bros! Please do comment on the intended placements of the individual corals.

Many Thanks! =)

You have been busy Aloysius.... haha..... welldone.gif

you might want to consider implementing a socket to hold a filter sock in your IOS area instead of using cotton filters.

They are much more effective.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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The current design uses a PAR38 14k XPG from Aquarium Artiste. I'm wondering if it would be better to use Maxspect G2-110W. Can anyone please inform me as to whether the Maxspect G2-110W can fit the width of 12" which is 1 foot? One more thing, what is the difference between with and without the CREE upgrade for the lights?

The project is currently in the works of $1k! Haven't even add the media, chemicals, rocks, corals and live stock. The addition of the Maxspect will set me back even more! Gonna go broke soon. =/

Width - Dr evil has already answered it, so I will skip it.

CREE Leds supposedly can last longer than the SemiLEDs (Maxspect provided LEDs). When you upgrade, only the white LEDs are changed to CREE. The blue LEDs are still SemiLEDs. CREE LEDs are more yellowish as they are 7k. White SemiLEDs are 10k (whiter). To prevent it from looking too yellowish when both blue and white CREE LEDs are switched on, Maxspect compensate it by switching more white LEDs to Blue ones.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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Thanks for the input on the filter sock. Would it clog up too easily and trap the natural micro-organisms too? For now I can only run maintenance once a week and my tank has to stay stable by itself for about a week.

Hmm I think the SemiLEDs last for 5years yea? I think by then I would have upgraded so no point to change to CREE now.

Anyway,

1)Do the LFS sell frags of corals or do they only sell like a rock size? I am looking more at frags at slowly grow them. I think its more fulfilling.

2) Can you remove the coral off the frag plug and grow it directly on the rock (attach using marine underwater epoxy)

3) Is it safe to use normal Homefix epoxy to glue live rock together then run the aquarium? Would it be toxic to the fish and corals?

Always have a bunch of questions in my head for this project man. Mind-bogging hobby. Hahaha.

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More Questions,

4) How do you go about fragging these corals? Just cut their bases near the live rock?

5) How do you do rescaping? Remove all corals, move it to QT then reposition rocks? Isn't it epoxy to one another already?

Sorry I have so many questions guys, I really have to Thank you guys for all the answers! =)

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