Mickeymic Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 Hi there, out of curiosity, i would like to know sick anemone, other than sign of bleached, what else can be seen? And how to save them from it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member unicornfart Posted October 27, 2018 SRC Member Share Posted October 27, 2018 Strong light and feed it meaty food. Silver fish works for me. Here is a pic of my sick/bleached carpet when my tank was having a Dino attack. (Pic 1) Killed almost all of my acros tho.. After a 3 day black out and rising my light up.. I kept feeding meaty seafood daily for 2 weeks... And... It recovered!! Here is a picture after (pic 2) you can still see the centre part near its mouth is still recovering. (Pic 3) taken today Hope this helps!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 Strong light and feed it meaty food. Silver fish works for me. Here is a pic of my sick/bleached carpet when my tank was having a Dino attack. (Pic 1) Killed almost all of my acros tho.. After a 3 day black out and rising my light up.. I kept feeding meaty seafood daily for 2 weeks... And... It recovered!! Here is a picture after (pic 2) you can still see the centre part near its mouth is still recovering. (Pic 3) taken today Hope this helps!! WOW!! It recovered so nicely! What meaty food did u feed it? My healthy BTA seems to reject any frozen seafood that i gave them Other than bleaching, anemone gets any kind of sickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member unicornfart Posted October 27, 2018 SRC Member Share Posted October 27, 2018 Krill and sliverside, I feed twice a week. Did you off your wakemaker while feeding? If your BTA tentacles are sticky to the touch, she's in good health. Not to worry m8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 Krill and sliverside, I feed twice a week. Did you off your wakemaker while feeding? If your BTA tentacles are sticky to the touch, she's in good health. Not to worry m8. I brought frozen seafood mix from grocery shop. It kinda dislike it. I didn't turn off wave maker. Somehow one of my BTA is so sensitive to touch. It will just shrink quickly whenever the tentacles touches something. Give me a headache hahahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louisfjh Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 wat anemone? bta? i suggest dont give strong light,light too strong will bleachSent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 wat anemone? bta? i suggest dont give strong light,light too strong will bleachSent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app Yes BTA. Hmmm.... so which is the correct one? Strong light or not strong lighting? Actually my problem is, My healthy BTA ain't eating at all and I have no idea why. Tried feeding oyster, shrimp and clams, ain't accepting anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Supporter SubzeroLT Posted October 28, 2018 SRC Supporter Share Posted October 28, 2018 In general anemone need relatively high light. In the 300 - 400+ PAR range is good (this is equivalent to SPS lighting levels). Total lighting hours also need to be factored in, else too long hours even at lower light levels can cause bleaching. Anemone can survive in 150+ PAR range (eg sand bed) but the bubble tips won't be so nice. They will look amazing in higher light. Other signs of a stressed anemone - wont eat, won't attach to rock or keeps moving to a dark place to hide in the dark. 2 Quote Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/mysliceofnature/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keecur89 Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 When my anemone didn’t eat I had to turn off my pumps and just lay something on top of himSent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 In general anemone need relatively high light. In the 300 - 400+ PAR range is good (this is equivalent to SPS lighting levels). Total lighting hours also need to be factored in, else too long hours even at lower light levels can cause bleaching. Anemone can survive in 150+ PAR range (eg sand bed) but the bubble tips won't be so nice. They will look amazing in higher light. Other signs of a stressed anemone - wont eat, won't attach to rock or keeps moving to a dark place to hide in the dark. Wow! Thanks man, that's very specific! Hahahaha So usually how long must the lighting go on for a day for the BTA? MY anemone is attaching to rock, stationary, but just won't eat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 When my anemone didn’t eat I had to turn off my pumps and just lay something on top of himSent from Singapore Reef Club mobile appMy fishes will literally go and take a bite thinking is it's food. 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Supporter SubzeroLT Posted October 29, 2018 SRC Supporter Share Posted October 29, 2018 Generally 6-8hrs of strong light is sufficient for anemone. Try feeding around the time when the lights come on (before/after is OK). To prevent fishes from getting to the food of your anemone, consider covering it. Such covers are available online or perhaps some LFS also carry it. (sample pic below taken from online source) Quote Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/mysliceofnature/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Generally 6-8hrs of strong light is sufficient for anemone. Try feeding around the time when the lights come on (before/after is OK). To prevent fishes from getting to the food of your anemone, consider covering it. Such covers are available online or perhaps some LFS also carry it. (sample pic below taken from online source) That's for healthy anemone right? What about anemone that's bleached? Same hours of lighting too? Oh, one more question. How to i able to make my anemone grow bigger and healthy? And how long does it usually takes? Wow, that sure come in handy! I will find or diy one hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Supporter SubzeroLT Posted October 30, 2018 SRC Supporter Share Posted October 30, 2018 4 hours ago, Mickeymic said: That's for healthy anemone right? What about anemone that's bleached? Same hours of lighting too? Oh, one more question. How to i able to make my anemone grow bigger and healthy? And how long does it usually takes? Wow, that sure come in handy! I will find or diy one hahaha If the anemone is bleached, the usual process is to place in lower light conditions (eg on sand bed / around 200 PAR) and let it recover slowly. In time, it should start eating. Depending on the anemone type. Like the popular RBTA takes about 6 months to grow from 2" diameter to about open palm size. Quote Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/mysliceofnature/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 If the anemone is bleached, the usual process is to place in lower light conditions (eg on sand bed / around 200 PAR) and let it recover slowly. In time, it should start eating. Depending on the anemone type. Like the popular RBTA takes about 6 months to grow from 2" diameter to about open palm size. I thought anemone will tend to move itself to places they like? How to even place them on sand bed. Wow.. that's if have a consistent of feeding process right? I actually have some food replacement like reef pulses, but is from hikari. Is it good for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Supporter SubzeroLT Posted November 1, 2018 SRC Supporter Share Posted November 1, 2018 You can place them in a small isolation box with a rock in it. And place the entire thing on the sand bed. In time, it'll attach to the rock during the process. Hikari Reef Pulse is a mix of phyto/zooplakton up to 0.005 - 0.4mm in size. That's more suitable for SPS/LPS. Probably not so useful for carnivorous predators like the anemone. Quote Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/mysliceofnature/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickeymic Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 You can place them in a small isolation box with a rock in it. And place the entire thing on the sand bed. In time, it'll attach to the rock during the process. Hikari Reef Pulse is a mix of phyto/zooplakton up to 0.005 - 0.4mm in size. That's more suitable for SPS/LPS. Probably not so useful for carnivorous predators like the anemone. Thanks man! However i still able to fed it occasionally right? Hhahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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