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SubzeroLT last won the day on November 10

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About SubzeroLT

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  1. SubzeroLT


    +1 on AquaUV 25w for 3ft tank. Bulb life is 14 months
  2. You can have a valve on the reactor. Slow down the flow to maintain the right levels Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. Lovely!! Next will need to show how full your frag tank is.
  4. I have an Apogee PAR meter. Sent you a PM
  5. Lovely! Even though you mentioned no direct sunlight, there is still good levels of light reaching the corals. Very sure the corals are benefitting from it. All looks to be doing so well. More pics please
  6. The past 3 water change weekends (once every 2 weeks) has been about attempting to remove pest growth from the tank. i.e. aiptasia, vermatid snails & bubble algae. Realistically i don't expect to get rid of them entirely using 'manual' method but objective is just to keep it under control. Looks to be working. Bubble Algae : I saw this idea online & decided to 3D print it. Its basically a long tip with a sharp from edge for lifting bubble algae from the rocks. All of it is siphoned through a 9/12mm hose that goes into a bucket. I don't have major issues with bubble algae. No huge chuncks but just some sporadic bubbles here & there. If these are not removed, they will continue to grow. To reduce the risk of the waste bucket overflowing because I may be too busy concentrating with siphoning stuff in the tank, I use a DIY water level alarm (float switch with a buzzer). Verdict of the tool : Makes it a lot easier to confidently remove bubble algae. Almost of of the bits get siphoned out & little or non drifts away. For aiptasia, I prefer to use a pipette & not the syringe/needle that comes with AiptasiaX. Pipette is longer (easier to inject at difficult to reach places) and does not clog so easily. Use about 3 pipette worth each time for my tank size. General method is apply before water change. Wavemaker & return pump off. Lights off entirely & shine with super bright torchlight (easer to see than with tank lights on). For vermatid snails, this tool that came with the Ecotech fragging kit works best. The design is referred to as a "sponge forecep" in case you want to search for it online. Long enough to reach in to break off the vermatid snail shell. Then leave it to the leopard wrasse to pick them off.
  7. Saw this idea online & decided to make one. Bubble algae removal tool. Connected to a hose. Dig out the bubble algae with the sharp tip & siphon the bubble out whole. Or if its broken, the bits is siphoned out immediately.
  8. I really envy how clean your sump is.
  9. IMO, investing in an RODI system just makes things more convenient - a critical factor to enjoy the hobby. ICP done on local tap water shows some levels of phosphate & other salts. Having an RODI system helps ensure you reset it to a known baseline (i.e. 0TDS water). Not a must.....but good to have. RO filters will generate some waste water. That's simply how it works. But do remember that the 'waste' water can also be collected to be repurposed for other use (and not waste it). The other way to look at it is that water in SGP is not all that expensive. 1000L of water is about S$1.46
  10. Thanks. I think tank transfer method is the least stressful for the fish. No harsh chemicals like copper is used (which suppresses appetite). Prazi will suppress appetite but its not administered all the time when incorporated with tank transfer method. You just need to make sure the temperature/salinity of the new water is the same as the old water. The only 'stress' is when you catch them out. Anthias are finicky eaters but they should take to mysis shrimp quite quickly.
  11. Good choice of equipment & Waterbox tank! For quarantine, my personal preference is not to medicate with copper. One safe method is to use tank transfer method for ich irradication (stay ahead of the ich life cycle) + incorporate with Prazi (dewormer) towards the end of the tank transfer cycle. The process can be found on the regular US forums.
  12. Lovely!! Must see in person one day
  13. Memorable & possibly last visit to Coral Farm over the weekend. Going to miss the place. Got a couple of invertebrates Got a tiny serpent starfish (ophiolepis superba) to take care of detritus in the rocks. A sea cucumber (holothuria edulis) And some bumblebee snails to take care of vermatid snails and detritus. Did some relayout of equipment in the sump. Moved the ATO container outside the cabinet & moved the Kalk stirrer inside. The sulfur reactor is working well so far. The black stuff seems to appear when its exposed to light. The other side of the reactor that faces the sump is clean & yellow. Nitrates running around 2-5ppm. Not bad for quite heavy feeding. Right now i'm feeding frozen food equivalent to about 5 mysis shrimp cubes a day + pellets.
  14. Congrats on embarking on this journey. Fun days ahead. A couple of points : Refractometer - I hope you got the optical refractometer (not the swing arm type which is inaccurate). Since you will be using a cooling fan, there will be a lot of evaporation per day. An auto top off system is probably necessary. For corals, what do you have in mind? Suggestion is to start with zoanthids, Green Star Polyp (GSP) & duncans. Then proceed to other colorful LPS later on. It really depends on your system setup to be able to support it. Personally I'd avoid things like leather toadstools (release a lot of toxins in a small tank)
  15. There was discussion recently with reefers about calcium reactor setup. Some advocate not requiring a PH probe but rely only on Carbon Doser or 'tuning' methods only. My opinion is that pH probe is not required for 'normal' operation. But it a pH monitoring is still required to catch issues. In this example, the CR is running perfectly fine for a long time. But suddently experienced a slowdown & finally clogged. Perhaps its its a snowball effect. Once the effluent starts to slow down, the internal pH decreases & the effluent becomes more 'concentrated'. It then tends to precipitate more easily leading to further clogs? With Apex Neptune, you are able to be notified when it clogs, shuts off the CO2 & sends you an email. The issue can then be rectified immediately. The corresponding effluent slow down affected tank alkalinity level & the effect was also observed on Alkatronic's KH reading. Typically KH will be about 8.4dKH at 8am in the morning. But with the clog triggered at 12.30am last night, alkalinity was at 8.14dKH this morning instead. Usually i'll open up the effluent a little more for half a day to alkalinity catch up. Then reduce it back to original set point to maintain.
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