jd_n

I m glad u like tat maxi too.

Posted in the wrong area bro, get the mods or AT to help move the thread into the proper section before u got "Tick Tock"

Breakin my back ...No way, me gonna come suit up with my mask and snorkel. U providin fish net k,

Normal hardware shop shd be cheaper then to get frm fish tackle shop

hhahha..okok. But i m not gonna clear up the mess after tat hor

lai leh...loan me And after tat is...cannot catch and its mine

Aiyah wat Biophos/ Rowaphos.....I want tat lawnmower blenny of urs more

How long u will live.. 1. u r too big for a 4ft tank, 2. u dun have gills, 3. u dun have feeding fenzy when smell blood and lastly u won't last coz u gonna drown.

Told u so....

Then u go buy n put in ur tank lor

Get it, use it and u can be the nxt person commenting on it.

Seen it along TPE 5 yrs back too

Agreed.

..nano, very temptin

U can change the heading to Cyano! Thick Thick Man!

ok, DB...me will see got any frags to spare.

Hope the medicine works and ur LS recover

The best way to tell them apart is in the shape of their shells. Croceas have a more rounded shape while Maximas are elongated. A Crocea's flutes are likely to appear slightly worn away toward the base while the Maxima's flutes are more sharply defined. The latter name refers to the relative lack of ribbing and scales on the shell. The smoothness of its thick shell, and the 6-7 vertical folds helps to differentiate its species from T. gigas, its larger relative which is not as smooth and has 4-5 folds. It also has a narrow byssal opening and the incurrent siphon has tentacles.

frags huh...heheheh

Who said tat ...Even if u were to run a 1000W MH doesn't gurantee coloration. Lots of factors involvin coloration in sps. True...but note, its a DE=double ended. 400W is SE=single ended. The issue with DE is the hassle to get UV glass especially for those tat do DIY. Unless u tokin abt those branded like Giessman, Acardia.....they MH set comes with UV glass but there r one reefer who still get his acro burn due to those bulbs and not forgettin the price of this brand. Who dun,... have a browse thru the site....pple like AT, Morgan, Joe P, me have acros at the bottom of the tank. Most pple keep sps at the top coz they knw they r light demanding and their lighting is not sufficient. A 150W user would definitely knw tat by placing his sps at the top will expose them to more light than the bottom. There r more to gettin good growth and coloration than juz lightin alone. Lightin juz play a part but its not everythin. Cheers

Some info regardin ur tank size, how long has it been set up will help us answer u better.

IMO preferably not to used coz medicine is commonly found to be dosed into fresh water aquarium for watever treatment. Over a prolong period of time, medicine is knwn to be absorbed into the silicon or stained on glass. If u insist on using back the tank since it would be a waste not to, then it would be advisable to give ur tank a good scrub, fill it up with water, put in a powerhead so as not to get stagnant water and leave it for couple of weeks. Even if u nvr put in any mediciation, do take into consideration with the thickness of the tank (6mm...is not really recommended). Nxt, is to work on ur filtration, and frm the look of it ur only best choice would be cannister or overflow box (I-box). I would chose the I-box provided u have space for a sump tank in ur cabinet. Overflow box will not only provide u with surface skimmin and also increase ur total volume with the use of a sump tank. A system running on sump i would say is the best form of filtration for marine keepin else, u r left with only the cannister choice. For cannister, a surface skimmer attachment would be very useful and regular maintenance will be required on ur cannister to prevent nitrate buildup. The next 2 piece of equipment is interlink. Its the lighting and chiller. A MH would be the best choice provided u get a chiller. Go for 250W or higher wattage MH if ur tank is 2ft deep else, 150W will do also for a 1.5ft depth. And with MH, u can go for at least a 0.5hp chiller or higher one if u foresee u will upgrade to a bigger tank and at the same time not to overwork ur chiller. T5 would be the next better choice if u dun wanna get a chiller but IMO, anythin above 2ft depth will render the T5 useless coz eg...a 3ft 39W tube juz doesn't have the punch thru water to reach the 2ft bottom to provide ample brightness > light loss as it goes thru deeper water. To counter tat, u can put in a 6inch DSB (leaving u with 1.5ft depth) and keep those less light demandin corals at the bottom and more demandin ones higher up on the LRs. PL is kinda of stretchin the light limits and FL is a no no. Ultimately, u have to ask urself wat u wanna keep, FOWLR or Reef?. FOWLR=not necessary to have intense lightin and chiller. Reef=Necessary if u give a damn abt ur LS The above is juz to help u kick off....u will come into contact with lots of other equipments which may not be necessary now at ur stage. Go thru New to the Marine Aquara and other threads to help u gather more info. If i were u, sell of the present tank and custom make one with the proper thickness, overflow, sump, cabinet and size. Or check in the pasar malam thread for any bro lettin go their tank set only. Go for the biggest tank u can afford and maintain. Btw, forget abt gettin the whole system frm seller coz there r no way u can transport them. Do it once and good so u dun waste "upgrading" money in future.

There r 12 identical coins. Of these 12, only one r fake (fake one may b lighter or heavier). Havin only a normal balancing scale, how u gonna find out which coin is the fake. Have to determine the fake within 3 attempts on the balancing scale.

Fin Rot is a bacteria that attacks the fins and in extreme cases, the body. This bacteria is usually the result of environmental stress such as poor water quality, bullying, etc. Part of treating this illness is early detection. If left untreated, secondary infections can occur. Fin or tail rot can also be a secondary infection caused by stress from other diseases. There are many different ways that harmful bacteria can enter your aquarium, some fish at the pet store will look perfectly normal but harbor harmful bacteria that the fish has become immune to, and will release the bacteria through its feces in your tank. However, healthy fish will be able to fight off the bacteria with little trouble. If only a few fish infected, it is best to move them from the main tank, and place them in a bare hospital tank for treatment, but in most cases a hospital tank is not an accessible. Fish should never be given low dosages of medications over a long period of time, this could cause the bacteria to become immune to medications. Think ever come across the medicine "Melafix"(not sure is it spell this way) at Petmart. Did mentioned as capable of treatin fin rot. U can try it out.

Edwin(PR) told me the new dymax T5 is of newer generation so most probably some R&D had been dn and it had outperform (nvr heard any complain so far) the first batch.