scarab
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Posts posted by scarab
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Tricolour No 1
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Lime green tenuis
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Blue unidentified.....maybe austera
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Red millepora
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Some new top down photos
Acroporas first
Blue tip tenuis
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if u r talking abt the built in controller, e.g. Red Sea Aquazone Plus; it does really pose a problem. the flaw is that the controller cannot be calibrated, there is simply no such function with the Red Sea unit.
good news is the Aquazone Plus unit that i've got is already abt 1.5yrs old with the same old original probe (i am the 2nd owner). juz calibrated the probe a couple of wks back with 475mV calibration solution. the resulting reading from the calibration is 468mV. a deviation of only 7mV. not too bad for a unit/probe that's 1.5 yr old. but i can't say the same for RAV-65, results varies.
if u r gonna connect the ozoniser to ur skimmer intake, do make sure ur skimmer, airline, etc r made of ozoneproof material. use carbon to remove excess ozone, etc.
as for orp controller, u can check out the milwaukee instruments SMS510 or SMS 125.
Thanks bro. Most probably will go for a separate ORP controller. Will note the ozoneproof thingy for the skimmer.
Milwaukee ORP get from where ah?
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Sorry bro hijack your thread a bit ah.
The built in ORP controller good or not? Heard in RC a lot of people complain about inconsistent reading of ORP probe leading to constant cleaning and changing. If like that built in one, problem right?
Not too worry about price coz must get good and reliable one as ozone cannot play play one. Can crash tank if dose incorrectly. So your opinion, Sanders good? And what is a good ORP controller?? Thanks in advance.
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Great bro, thanks for the info. Maybe will go for this then.
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Huh? thought u ordered the Enaly liao?!
There are two blue plugs behind the redsea ozonizer, both for attaching air-tubes, one in and one out, less than 6 months after the unit is in use, the blue plug where the ozone comes out kanna "eaten" or "corroded" by the ozone!
Now the whole unit cannot be used... A check with the Qian Hu agent revealed that they dun carry parts for the unit... 
Wah lau, like that cannot get Red Sea already lah. There is another one call Sanders or something. Is that good? I haven't order anything lah. Still undecided which brand to buy.
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Bro, got lar look carefully and that being said I just went to check out that colony and the polyps are "more more" (fury fury) as usual.
Oh ya are you referring to the brown one or the pink one? If the brown one then the polyps always been like that or I ID it wrongly?
When I mentioned "zeovit system" (ya I know this word a bit sensitive) means I employ the full system and follow their recommend husbandry like 5-10% water change, frequent cleaning of the skimmer collection cup to ensure skimmer working at max efficiency. Making sure all water parameters are good and stable etc.
So running zeovit system is not a matter of dosing a few drops of "SKII" and then expecting some magic to happen in your tank.
Very well said there bro. I also agree it is not something magic. Basic husbandry like water change, maintain good water parameters, good lighting and flow and efficient skimming (like what you have mentioned) is key to a healthy reef.
Where got brown coral? I mean the one on the left lar, the blue tip one. And confirm.....it is a millepora.
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Zeovit system
Bro, come on, I'm sure it's not only that......... Must also include your constant monitoring and dedication as well as good husbandry and TLC, right? SPS keeping is a never ending job..
BTW did you shock the milles before you take the photos? Somehow the polyps are not appearing which is unusual for milles.
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Bro, this is the 2nd time I'm using ozone after the 1st one, a Redsea Ozonsier was "eaten" up by ozone after less than 6 months... tink u should go for it...
There's a lengthy thread in RC ozone that u may wanna read up about it :
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...highlight=ozone
Bro, what does 'eaten up' mean ah??
Don't scare me leh. Was thinking of getting a Red Sea. -
Bro
Amazing how you maintain the colours even after the major rescape. Kudos mate.I remembered after my last major rescape. Takes me almost 6 months to get the corals to colour back to its original potential. You dosing some secret potion ah???
Anyway excellent reef and true credit to your husbandry.
BTW your old tank SRC TOTM is celebrating its one year anniversary already......**song** Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you.........
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Bro very nice colours!!!!
Your reef is really vibrant now. Good job.BTW how long have you ran your ozone??? Do it help in anything else other than water clarity??
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Bro solid ah. After corals turn pro now photography also turn pro eh.
Excellent....
Keep the photos coming...
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Yes Sir! I still remember that...
Maybe I see if I can frag it tonight for you...
Eh bro, joking only lah. No hurry ok? I no space liao..
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I will stop adding trace element immediately. Tks scarab for your timely adviced. 1 question to ask, if I change water weekly or the most bi-weekly on 10%, will the corals had enough elements?
Cheers
Suggest you pay more attention to the major elements like Calcium and Alkalinity (kH) and maybe Magnesium. Don't worry too much about trace elements. You know what are the levels of Ca and Alk to keep, right?
10% water change very good already, even fornightly. I know a lot of reefers don't even change water for months....
........ but to each his own. Everyone have their own prefered reefing method when it comes to water change.. 
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i do not see the papillae and septa, i did not say that i did.
i am juz judging from the extended fleshes and whatever i can see of the coralites. micromussas polyps r closely knitted most of the time, look at the distance btw each polyps in Jendub's post. i did some comparisons myself in RC for wa lanz pc, there r 2 great pictorial threads (sadly, both threads had been closed due to obvious reasons), 1 for micromussas and the other for acans.
as i hv said, i still think it's not a micromussa, but an acan lord. although both r from the Mussidae family and r easily mistaken.
btw bro, what makes u so sure that it's not an acan lord?
Actually just want to say, try not to confuse people with these terror terms lah. End up everyone more blur.Micromussa, acanthastrea, blastomussa or whatever mussa also can lah. Nice can already. Too bad it's not in my tank.
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Just bought a beckett skimmer and FR, now no budget to buy chiller. The electric bill will make my wife
Since topping with RO, have to add trace element weekly. If change water bi-weekly about 10% can I stop dosing. Taking in consideration of using RO daily
cheers
Bro, don't understand your 'have to add trace element weekly' . How do you know you have to add? You test for trace elements?
You top up water to cater for evaporation. Depletion of trace elements depend on your coral take up. Both of these are totally not connected. Your water evaporate, doesn't mean your trace elements also evaporate bro.
Really suggest you don't dose anymore trace elements as since you can't test for it, you won't know how much is enough. Your weekly 10% water change should take care of the trace elements replenishment.
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I'm not much into reseraching articles and stuff but here's my light configuration. Hopefully it can help you as it comes from my personal experience.
My tank size 3.5ft x 2 ft x 2 ft
MH 3 x 250W DE 10000K BLV (Photoperiod 8 hours)
T5 8 x 54W (6 Aqualight Coralblue and 2 Aquaz actinics) (Photoperiod 14 hours)
Height of light from water surface is 7 inches
I'm keeping most of my acros and light loving SPS the top two third of my tank. Monti caps and some LPS and Ricordeas line the lower third.
IME 250 W DE bulbs have no problems reaching 2 to 2.5 feet deep if you know what corals to place. So knowing different SPS light requirement will be helpful. Unless you want to place Acropora hyacinthus tables (these are super light loving corals) on the sandbed, 250W 10000K DE will be good enough. Monti caps are lovely corals and they will do really well on the sandbed. I even find some monti caps do well when they are partly shaded.
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still think it's not a micromussa, but an acan lord. although both r from the Mussidae family and r easily mistaken. the characteristics resembles that of acan lord.
characteristics of Micromussa amakusensis:
Colonies are cerioid with neat angular corallites up to 8 millimetres diameter. Septa have 1-3 large teeth. Colonies have a thick fleshy mantle usually covered with fine papillae.
characteristics of Acanthastrea lordhowensis:
Colonies are massive and cerioid, with laterally compressed corallites of uneven height. Walls are acute: septa are thick, with large teeth. Columellae are barely developed. Colonies have a thick fleshy mantle which is covered by fine papillae.
The pic shown is my micromussa. see the diff?
Bro how do you see papillae and septa when the polyp is out??
You can only see it when the coral is dead or when the polyps are shrunk and the skeleton is showing.No time to research but see the micromussa posted in RC under the link provided by wa_lanz. Even micros have lots of variation and by comparing the piece posted by wa_lanz, I say it looks closer to a micromussa than an acan. And it's definitely not Acan Lord.
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Anyone can ID this??
Don't know the ID but you owe me a frag of that!!
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Hi I am new here, had been using kent and it seems no much result. Also do a 10% water change bi-weekly. I am using fan and water evaporation is high so top up about 4 litres a day. My tank is 4x2x2.5, 150g, and top up with RO water, even i do a 10% weekly, RO water does not contain minerals. So what is the best advise?
Cheers
Firstly, consider using a chiller to keep your temperature more stable. You tank not small so to maintain temp using fan will have very high evaporation rate.
Secondly, the trace elements come from your salt not from your RO water. So when you do water change the replenishing of trace elements is due to your salt you mix into the water you change. Topping up water with RO has no trace elements, purely water (H2O), nothing else.
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What RAV meant was another separate sump other than your main sump........of course provided you have space for that.
scarab's new look
in Members Tank & Specs
Posted
Tricolour No 2