scarab
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Posts posted by scarab
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Another SPS, not sure what's the name. green bushy polpys
That's a poccilopora.
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Bro, nice pieces there, especially the red mille.
Eh how come your tank like got a lot of algae on the rocks ah?
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well cheers to all of you ya. we should meet up for coffee sometime.
ian
Good idea but it'll be kinda tough to get tuan to come, he's from the UK..........
Anyway good contribution everyone, learnt a lot from this thread.
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Another point is live sand is critical to a DSB. The whole point is that you have a myriad of organisms living in the sand to slowly churn it and prevent the surface become compacted solid or clogged up with detritus. Food (including fish waste) that lands on the sand are dealt with instead of rotting. This food is basically consumed by some organisms, the waste product is consumed again and again by more and more organisms be it worms, pods, bacterial level.
The myriad of organism living in the sand will eventually deplete in our closed system in the tank. Any suggestions what to intro to rejuvenate the live sand? Or just intro fresh live sand?
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I've heard somewhwere about this term of 'recharging' DSB, sort of like renewing or cleaning the DSB. Any idea how it is done, coz stirring the DSB has detrimental effect to your tank?
And the critters to keep the DSB alive, what types to intro?
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You will have to tune your CR properly in order to get the correct replenishment of Alkalinity and Calcium. Not too sure about other types of CR, for the Reef Maniacs double chamber CR I'm using, tuning to continuous droplets for effluent, keeping the effluent pH at 6.4 (control using CO2 bubble count), I'm able to keep my Alk at 10.5 dkh and Ca at 400 ppm. I'm using ARM media. I use to have lots of problem with Alk until I learn how to tune the CR properly to achieve optimum effect, thanks to Joe_P.
BTW your Calcium 500+ is considered very high, not too sure if it will affect your Alk. Normally high Ca will give rise to low Alkalinity (ionic imbalance, I think). Maybe you should try to keep your Ca at 380 to 420 ppm.....your Mg looks ok....
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I'm using Rowaphos and so far it work well for me.
If you are keeping SPS, remember not to use too much phosphate remover at one go. Somehow or other it causes SPS to STN. Use small quantities, continue to test for PO4 and slowly increase the quantity of the phosphate remover until you get no more phosphate readings.
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Any reasons why you need to maintain Alk above 10dkh?
8 is already quite good and considered very acceptable reading.
However if you really need to bump up and maintain a high alk and dosing buffer is not helping, you will need to install a Calcium Reactor.
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Bro,
with the use of BB, ever thought of placing a piece of glass under your tank so that it will reflect the light upwards for your SPS?
Anyway the effect won't last coz once coralline algae grows on it, you won't get anymore reflection.
Unless you scrape the bottom glass very often.....
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Nice tank bro..
Notice your overflow box is in the corner and it is not accessible from the side or back. You might want to think of some contingencies to access to it, in case you have fishes falling into it. You will have problem accessing it to catch the fish.
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Hi DB,
Great to see your updates again. It been quite a while.
The tank is looking great.
. Good growth and great colours. 
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Top down pic of the Hyacinthus :
Bro this Hyacinthus is really really AWESOME!!!
The growth, shape and the COLOURS are excellent, very well done.
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Very nice!!
Great colouration as well.....
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Brooooo, no offence pls... it not easy to go thru' the postings there to pull out the correct info.. I don't have it at the back of my hand, tho' i know it works... and I'm not that confident to explain the terms here... I don't wish to pass any incorrect data as these are very exacting science... ie. no two ways about it, not when it pertains to biology/chemistry... I'm am prepared to do a search thru' RC, if not one attempts to explain them here.. but if someone here can.. that would be great.
Please do.
I lazy to 'tak chik' one lah. Need to spoonfeed.... But maybe can start a new thread coz we are like
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First thing first... do you understand that SPS is carbon limiting, if you do, you'll understand how this UV thing feeds corals... if you don't then you'll hv to do some reading on. I don't think I can explain adequately to your satisfaction. Maybe someone else here can better expain.... if no one does, then I'll do it.
Bro can try not to post like this. If you have info where everyone can share and learn, please just post it. I would like to know too. Come on....
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If you go to some of the European site there are some french using DE lighting without the shield ...not sure if this is what bomber is doing.
I am still exploring too .. which explain why MH users can bring out stronger color better than T5 becasue MH emits UV whereas T5 does not.
DE without UV shielding? That's interesting coz a little UV does help in the colouration of the SPS. Just gotta be careful if you remove the UV shield coz there is no intermediate shielding range in between. It's either with UV shield or without. Maybe a glass with various UV shielding effect might help coz over exposure to UV has irretrievable consequences to your SPS.
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I think with our tank size and stocking level, it will be very difficult to achieve what Bomber is doing. His is a 10 feet tank and I'm sure his bioload is super low. I've also seen his SPS stocking, very minimal I say. Well one man's meat is another man's poison. It boils down to the look you want.
You have any idea how to indirectly feed corals using UV???
This one I really interested to know. This will be like feeding without putting food in the water. -
Enlightened now. Was a little worried about what 'super clean' means, maybe end up have to do a lot more work on the tank.......
Respect your views, I just post my views. No who is right or wrong. Feathers were ruffled but now smoothen back already. Always want to post informative views so appreciate if no mention of who has better 'credentials' or blah blah blah. that don't matter here. In the forum, everyone post as equals.
In your case of super clean, does it mean good water parameters, good skimming or some sort of thing like that.
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We are posting our views right? You ask for any views, so I post. Is there a need to mention what TOTM badge or that sort???
Everyone who post here has a right to their views. Doesn't mean someone with a better looking tank has more right to express their view. That's nonsense.The danger here is everyone else who read the postings can only make their own conclusion. I'm giving a different side which first is my view and second will help reefers here to conclude with more chioces and not swayed unknowingly.
Enough said.
Another thing is, I don't really understand the meaning of 'super-clean' tank. Care to enlighten me?
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Ranking?????
Don't understand that. 
Nobody is pulling rank here as this I feel this is an open discussion. 
It's not the issue of whose tank is nicer using short or long photoperiod. We are not here to judge on the duration of photoperiod.
What I'm trying to say theoretical conclusions which lead to short photoperiods like photoinhibition for corals is IMO theoretical and that varies from species to species. Different SPS species require different light intensity and spectrum to thrive. While you can provide some with 2 hours of intense (here the definition of intense come into play, how intense is intense?) light and they do well, other more light loving SPS will suffer. Hence you will end up either not being able to keep two thirds of the SPS species or you end up browning out a lot of SPS due to your trial and error.
Hence I'm giving my view on the opposite side of short photoperiod, so that SPS keepers especially the budding ones won't be disillusioned when they run their lights for only 2 hours a day after reading this thread, and their corals brown out.
A primitive suggestion to achieve your optimum photoperiod, is to start running your light for long periods, say 10 hours. After say 2 weeks, if the corals are doing fine, reduce it by 1 hour and monitor again for another 2 weeks. In the meantime you must keep up your husbandry so that the only varying parameter is the photoperiod. Then keep reducing the 1 hour photoperiod every 2 weeks until your corals show adverse effect. Bring it back to the duration prior to the final reduction and that should be your optimum photoperiod. I did this to reduce my photo period from 10 hours to 8 hours.
A more technical way is to measure your total PAR of your light in the tank and work out your photoperiod from there. This I haven't learn.
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I beg to differ in the short photoperiod issue. No matter how much lights we run on our tank it can never match the duration and intensity of the sunlight the corals receive in the sea. So it's more a personal preference on the photoperiod issue.
For every nice short photoperiod tank, I can show you many beautiful long photoperiod tank. So the truth on shortened photoperiod is still out there. There are more to this than just light photoperiod.
One example of an excellent tank from RC is from Joe Burger (JB_NY). He runs his MH for 9 hours and his actinics for 13 hours. Link to his tank in RC is below.
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Upon the advice of Scarab & Dan, I decided to buy a Coral Labs' 8 inch diameter 1 metre tall single beckett skimmer.
Hi bro, I only told you that you must get a Beckett Skimmer, any Beckett Skimmer.
Anyway, well done on the acquisition. Your corals will love you and reward you with awesome colour.
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Maybe can do a search in RC?
Errr........that's where I did the search
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Don't go searching for info lah, just bring down to 1.025. I think high sg stresses the corals. Not much info available on the actual effect, I've also search before. Before I got my refractometer my sg was 1.029.
That time got STN problem and reduced polyp extension.
wa_lanz 3x2x2 tank
in Members Tank & Specs
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Empty bro???
You must be joking 
Again I say, there is nothing wrong with the scaping. It looks great.
Don't go and touch it again lah. Corals always suffer if you move them around.
BTW the red one looks like a micromussa to me.