Marine_Tank

Hi Shiraz, Thanks fr yr info. I need some more advice whether the Weipro protein skimmer can be fitted into my pump chamber (dimension as given above). My tank overall size is 4 feet (L) x 0.9 feet ( x 2.1 feet (H). Appreciate yr help

Hi, Do you have a picture of the JEBO skimmer and the specs ? Appreciate yr help cos' looking into one right now using venturi system and not sander wood which is not effective and troublesome. Thanks : )

Calling on all Weipro protein skimmer users, Can anyone advise whether Weipro 2011/12/13/14 can be fitted into my tank pump chamber which is only 13.5cm (L) x 28cm ( x 70cm (H). Don't have the priviledge of a sump for the Weipro. I am thinking of getting one considering the price vs value of this skimmer. Btw, can the water outlet be directed into the pump chamber instead of the main tank. Reason is becos' I am afraid the water may overflow in my main tank if the flowrate is too fast and secondly, I guess maybe I have limited overhead space if the protein skimmer is hanged inside the pump chamber. Can't hang it inside the main tank becos' of aesthetic reasons and there is no other place to hang in my built-in customised tank. Attached thread below is a schematic diagram of my customised tank. Have bought one skimmer - Turbo C but found that it cannot be fitted in the limited space of my pump chamber and it has been lying there since day 1. Appreciate all your great help. Thanks. custm_tk.xls

Hi, Can show me a picture of yr compact Sander skimmer ? My tank has limited space just like you and I am thinking of changing my Orca protein skimmer to a better one. Thanks alot....

Hi, Can you provide more details like the specs, $ , conditions and age + some pictures ? Need to study whether it can fit my tank or not. Thanks.

Thanks for all yr advice. Guess have to try other means or other sand bed cleaners. After reading from the many threads here, this cuke is not an easy thing to keep unless I am sure of their habitat and what I can provide for them to leave happily : ) Cheers,

Hi Anyone, Have read thru all the threads here abt sea cumcumber but needs further information below. Can advise whether donkey dung can survive in high nitrates i.e. above 50 -100 ppm tank and without chiller (i.e. abt 30 degree celsius) ? I have a mixed DSB (top layer 0 grade coral sand and bottom layer is grade 4 or 5 sand). Can these cukes survive ? Any problem for them. My tank does not come with a wet and dry filters. Just normal circulation flow with a pump chamber and filter chamber (coral chips). And normal lighting like x1 30W actinic blue tube + x1 30w Arcadia white light (10k kelvin). Will this cuke cos high bioload to the tank too ? Is there any other things I need to watch out ? Hope to get yr reply before I get one of this sand cleaner.

Hi JunYong, Is the pump still available at $50 ? Can you call me at 9686 2705 if there is no buyer for yr pump ? Btw, can this pump be used to pump in water from container to the tank which is abt 1.75m high ? What kind of hose do you use with this pump so that the water pressure will not be lost.

Hi Fellow Hobbyists, Anyone can share their experience on how to pump fresh NSW from the container (holding the water) to the tank which is as high as 1.8 meter tall (tank is situated on a built-in cabinet). I have tried using a power head (Dynax Boxer - 1500) with a hose to pump the water into the tank but was not successful. Guess the pressure is not strong enough. What must be the GPH (gallon per hour) that you need to pump water to such a height ? Did I make any mistakes somewhere ? Let me know if you need more details abt the power head I am using and I will check further.

Thanks guys. But is this fatal if left untreated ?

Hi There, Anyone can share their experience on treating Regal Angel (Royal Empress Angel) fish with cloudy eye ? One of her eyes are clouded for quite some time already. Is this pop-eyed problem ? Is there any effective treatment for this conditon ?

Well, I may try it out 1st. Read from one thread that you can turn off the protein skimmer for a few hours when you use it 1st. In this way, the foam will not be formed as the main ingredient of this product will have alredi mixed completely with the tank water by then. However, I am still hoping that someone can share his/her idea on the correct dosage becos I am only preparing a few bottles of top-up water at at time which require very minute quantity of this anti-chlorine agent i.e. 0.14 ml per 1 liter of top-up water (1 bottle capacity)

Hi, I guess the foam should be quite manageable since I am only using it to top-up evaporated water right ? Thought of using it anyway since I have alredi bought the product. Forgot that there will be foaming problem when I purchased this Nutrafin product. Hope to hear some advice from you folks : )

Hi All, Have just purchased a bottle of Nutrafin water conditioner (aqua+plus). According to the instructions, I will have to double the dosage for salt water aquarium. However, I think this "double dosage" rule should not be applied because I am only adding it to tap water for topping up water and not for new marine tank set-up. Can someone advise how to use this product ? I am thinking of filling up empty bottles (x1 liter) containers for topping up water only. How much dosage should I use then ? Is there a better and efficient way of doing this ? Do I need to use a special dropper to get the correct dosage if I am only preparing a few water bottles at a time ? By the way, I read from many threads here that this product will cause a lot of foaming in the protein skimmer. Will this phenomenon happen if you use it mainly for water topping-up and not routine water change ? Hope someone can share his/her method in using this anti-chlorine/chloramine water conditioner.

Thanks fr yr fast reply. But have anyone able to keep their snails/ reef lobsters alive by using tap water to top-up without using any chemicals to treat the water. Have learn from some threads here that leaving the water overnight will help to remove the chlorine. I am worry cos' 2 of my astrae snails have died after more than 2 months in my tank. Only 3 more are surviving right now.

Hi, Hope someone can share his/her experience abt this . I using using top-up water direct from the tap for my FOWLR tank. Will the chlorine or chloramine in the tap water kill the snails ? I know marine fishes will not be affected by tap water but I am not too sure abt snails and reef lobsters ?

Hi Bob, Sori for my later reply. Still can't get a digital camera to take a picture of my tank. Anyway, after much consideration, I guess I have to drop this idea of changing coral chips to coral sand. Agreed fully with advice from "Clowntrigger", this switch of material will restrict the water flow to the pump chamber so it is not very feasible. One question here is how do you know whether yr DSB is effective or working at all ? I guess using grade 4 or 5 sand should be able to work as NNR right ? Or only grade 0 or 1 sand can work effectively as NNR ? My DSB is about 3 - 4 inch thick. Pls advise ?[/b[COLOR=red]] Need to decide whether I should proceed to remove all my coral chips without causing any stress or disease to the livestocks later. After much consideration, I think I will take out the coral chips instead over time and leave the space empty as coral chips will aggravate the nitrate problem of my tank right ? (as advise by the threads here). Nice having yr advice and reply on this matter guys : )

Hi Bob, You mean u have a similar tank like mine ? So, has the nitrate dropped drastically after you have changed all the coral chips to coral sand ? Btw, a point to clarify. As you can see from the sketched diagram of my tank (created using Excel file), my tank is a very simply one with no sump or something close to that at all. Can you tell me more abt yr experience when you have made the switch to coral sand ? I will take a picture of my tank and send it another day if possible. Thanks : )

Hi Fellow Marine Enthusiasts, Attached is my current 1 year old customised built-in tank. Currently, I am still facing with high nitrates in my tank which I think could be due to my high bioload and tank design limitations as there is no sump or refugium which acts as NNRs (natural nitrate reductions). Only using live rocks and DSB / grade 4 sand (in main tank) and coral chips (in biological chamber) as NNRs. Recently, I am relying more on chemical filtration i.e. filter wool, SeaChem Purigen, Chemipure and poly-filter to keep the nitrates from going to high. Besides this, I always try to do a monthly water change i.e. around 30 % - 50 % (next water change) using NSW from LFS. Have read from the many threads here that coral chips are the main cause of high nitrates. A few questions whether I can change the coral chips to grade #0 0r #1 coral sands :- 1. Can someone advise whether it is feasible to replace all the coral chips with grade #0 or #1 coral sand inside the biological chamber. 2. Will this sudden change to coral sand cause any stress to the livestocks i.e. Regal Angel, reef lobsters, snails etc. ? 3. Will this change help to act like a sump in a wet/dry filter system and help to control nitrate ? How much difference will that be ? 4. Will the grade # 0 or # 1 sand stops the water from flowing downwards as they are very fine sand ? Where is the best place to get this sand and how much do I need in order for it to work like a sump ? 5. What kind of filter bag material can I use to hold all the coral sand together so that the sand will not be carried away by the water current or get stuck ? Where to get this filter bag if there is ? Hope my this drastic and unorthodox idea will work and I can achieve a lower nitrate of below 25 PPM (currently abv 50 ppm after water change and abv 100 ppm 1 month after water change). Appreciate all yr great opinions and advice again. custm_tank_1.xls

I will just transfer the macroalgae to the main tank. It acts as a form of food fr the fishes and also for display purpose. Guess there is not much different in controlling nitrate in this way as I am not using a sump or refugium.

Hi Fellow Marine Fish Enthusiasts, Thinking of setting up a separate tank just to grow macroalgae for my main tank which has high nitrate level . I have too many live rocks which came with the macroalgae plants purchased from LFS. Guess this is not a cost effective and viable long-term solution. I don't have a sump or refugium to grow these plants or to hold the live rocks in the long run. Neither can I use a hang-on external refugium becos' of the closed-up design of my tank. Have a few questions to ask here:- 1. What equipments do I need for this set-up esp lighting hardware ? I have a normal 2 (L) ft x1 (B)x 1.4(H) tank which you can get from any aquarium shop outside ? 2. Can you use a over-the- top filtration system that is commonly use d in a freshwater set-up for Luo Han fish ? 3. What kind of PH or water parameters are required for the plants to grow ? What is the best conditions in terms of nutrients i.e. iron, minerals and lights etc.... Need any other special test kits or add special plant nutrients ? 4. Do I need to add any fish or invertebrates i.e. snails, shrimps which will complement the growth of the macroalgae ? Is there a need to recycle the water if you need to put this livestock inside ? Need a DSB also ? 5. Can I grow a few different kinds of macroalgae in the same tank ? Any good macroalgae that are very hardy and can absorb nitrates in main tank ? 6. Can I use the main tank water as top-up and also as recycled water to set up the tank ? 7. Can I position this tank near to a window so that it can have plenty of sunlight ? 8. How is the level of maintenance for such a kind of tank in terms of costs and time ? Pls enlighten me if you know As the nitrate level in my main tank is rather high i.e. > 50 ppm, I am thinking of transferring the macroalgae plants out to this tank so that I can let it grow and flourish again either before they die off in the course of time or get eaten up by the livestocks in the main tank. Have anyone try this before ? Pls let me know if there is any other matters that I need to know regarding this special set-up. Appreciate your great help and assistance here.

Hi Morgan, Got yr reply from the previous thread but just that I would like to get more opinions from the rest. I am worried that my snails may die cos' they don't have much algae or diatom to eat. They are very hardworking bunch of workers indeed - marine diatom get clear overnight..hahahaaa. Looks like may have to give away some cos' I can't up the nutrients as my nitrate is very high >50ppm and I am merely doing monthly water change due to costs and time constraints. Read from somewhere here that you can feed them with lettuce (from wet market) or dried seaweeds. Have tried feeding lettuce but to no avail. Thanks fr all yr reply.

Hi Fellow Marine Enthusiasts, I am about to do a monthly water change for my tank using LFS supply from LCK (Sungei Tengah) this weekend. Can advise whether it is advisable to change abt 50% or more of the water at one time bcos my nitrate level is still high i.e. abv 50 ppm during my last change of water which is abt 20 - 25 %. Will there be any effects or stress cause to the tank inhabitants i.e. fishes, snails or reef lobsters ? This is probably due to high bioload and also I do not have the benefits of a sump or refugium to control the nitrate level. Appreciate yr great help here.....

Hi Fellow Marine Enthusiasts, Anyone can tell me how and what to feed to cone-shaped snails i.e trochus/ turbo or cowries snails ? I have 5 snails both big and small and I am worried that they don't have much to eat in the tank after accomplishing their fantastic mission of clearing diatom and green algae within a night...... Guess they might die of starvation. Btw, any idea what kind of nitrate level can they survive ?

Can you provide more details on the steps and where to get the phosphates resins, activated carbon & anti-chlorine stuff etc. How abt what kind of container is suitable as storage becos' you will have to use it for a couple of weeks ? And it will be convenient to draw out the amount of water as and when you need to top-up the evaporated water. Does that mean you will have to put a powerhead ihside or airstone for aeration ? Also, do you need to run the aeration until the last drop of water has been used up ? Need all these important details before I can proceed. Appreciate yr help here.