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illumnae

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Everything posted by illumnae

  1. Wah i called iwarna just now they said no coral beauty. What is the size and damage? Any copperbanded butterflies spotted east side? AM ran out
  2. Any updates from Irwana? I heard there's supposed to be a shipment in today?
  3. Anyone going AM today can help me see the condition of the copperbands and mandarins please? Also looking for coral beauty
  4. You can try dosing bacteria supplement like Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II to help speed up the cycle.
  5. Thanks for the suggestion BFG I did mention it in my first post...from what I read, it seems to be something best left for the experts, as it's very easy to get it going wrong and crash the tank. I'm a total newbie at keeping marine, so I thought it dabble in the more "idiot-proof" stuff first to get my hands wet before progressing on to vodka dosing. I would also prefer something less of a hassle as daily dosing of so many things (I would already be doing 2-part I think, as I'm keeping LPS) would bring me back to my planted tank days which I'm trying to avoid.
  6. Do you have frags of 15-20 polyps of each separate type (no mix)?
  7. The reactors would be in the sump,not the display tank
  8. Hi all, I am about to start my first proper marine tank (have a simple office nano that I am keeping as well). It will be a 3x2x2 running a BM Curve 7 skimmer. I'm trying to get things right from the start and have thus been reading up on nitrate and phosphate export. I understand that the main methods of doing this are ATS, Refugium, Biopellets, Vodka dosing or Bacteria Dosing (e.g. Prodibio Biodigest). Due to space constraints, I'm not able to utilizie a Refugium, and I'm too much of a klutz to build an ATS. Vodka dosing is for the pros, not newbies like me. Hence, I'm left with the final 2 options. Having done some research on Biopellets and Bacteria Dosing, the conclusions I've drawn is that Biopellets are highly effective and if they're run from Day 1 of cycling, most of the inherent problems with them (i.e. cyanobacteria) do not occur. On the other hand, they strip the water too clean of nutrients and LPS/Soft corals tend to suffer. Over time, I may need to utlize additional phosphate removal methods such as GFO as Biopellets are more effective in removing nitrates and not so much phosphates. For Bacteria dosing, it is slightly more of a hassle, having to dose every 2 weeks. It's effective in lowering nitrates and some phosphates, but I will need to run phosphate removal from day 1. It is also not as effective as Biopellets and so there will be low but still detectable nitrates in the water. Taking into account that my intention is to start off with mainly a LPS/NPS/Softies setup, with the possibility (but not 100% sure) that I may graduate to SPS over time, would you recommend that I utilize a Biopellet and GFO reactor (powered by the same pump) from day 1? or would it be sufficient that I dose Biodigest every 2 weeks and leave it as that. If I dose Biodigest, I intend to use Seachem PhosGuard in a filter bag instead of a GFO reactor. ** Keeping in mind, of course, that my skimmer is pretty well reviewed and is overpowered for my tank size (Curve 7 is rated for 700-900 litres, my tank is 300+ litres only).
  9. Yup will use a separate chiller pump and reactor pump. I may use Seachem Seagel in a filter bag to act as carbon + phosphate removal.
  10. Not much choice due to space and wife constraints. I have a 3.5ft space for the entire cabinet+tank to go in. Wife insists that everything must be contained in that space and all equipment out of sight inside the cabinet. What I have done is to get my tank maker to cut slots in the door right in front of where the chiller is as well as to enlarge the hole at the back of the cabinet. The slots will be at the bottom of the door and not the top. Also installed a fan in the cabinet that will suck air out. With the increased holes in the cabinet and the fan sucking air out, I hope to create sufficient airflow to provide good ventilation for the chiller.
  11. Well just as an update, I'll be going with a 2 compartment sump, due to the chiller in my cabinet not giving me enough space for a larger sump. Sump will be 18" cube. I'm intending to run the sump as follows: 1st compartment: Filter sock + Skimmer (the skimmer needs the constant water level) 2nd compartment: Return pump + Chiller pump + Reactor pump + Reactor (biopellets) Would like to check something. If I intend to run GAC as well, can I connect the carbon reactor in series with the biopellet reactor and power them using the same pump? Would it be possible to share pump with chiller as follows: Chiller pump -> Chiller -> Reactor 1 -> Reactor 2 ? I was thinking of using an Eheim Compact 3000 for this purpose.
  12. Curve 180 abit beyond budget for now...but I've read that in future I can buy my own AquaBee pump and replace it for a "self upgrade" from Curve 7 to Curve 180!
  13. I'm setting up a new 3x2x2 tank, and am currently deciding on which skimmer to order. Initially, I had my mind set on the BM NAC7 after reading many good reviews about it. However, when chatting with Razali about the skimmer, he mentioned the Curve7 skimmer as well. Since both are at the same price point, I'm not really sure which to get. NAC7 uses Atman pump (easy to replace if got problems), but the Curve7 is a newer design and rated for bigger tanks. Would just like to check if anyone is able to offer some advice to me to help me make my decision
  14. Someone suggested to me to have just a 2 compartment sump: Compartment 1: Filter sock + Skimmer Compartment 2: Return pump + Algae scrubber + Biopellet Reactor (optional) Any thoughts? Or Compartment 2 can be Return pump + hang-on basket with macroalgae?
  15. Hi all, got bitten by the marine bug with my recent office nano/pico and have decided to set up a 322 at home. I'll be using a 2x1.5x1.5 sump as the filtration system for this and need some advice on how to configure the sump. As I understand it, for marine, the live rock and live sand acts as the colonising media for the beneficial bacteria and thus actual filter media is not required. The sump is supposed to act as a place to store equipment and perhaps a refugium. I'm not sure yet if my sump will be 2 compartment or 3 compartment, but I'm wondering what's the best stuff to put in each compartment of the sump. If 3 compartment, I'm thinking as follows: Compartment 1: Overflow pipe from tank with filter sock + skimmer Compartment 2: DSB + Macroalgae OR Algae scrubber OR phosphate reactor + Biopellet reactor Compartment 3: Return pump + chiller pump In brief, compartment 1 is for skimming the water that comes in from the tank, compartment 2 is for reduction of nitrates and phosphates and compartment 3 is the pump section. If 2 compartment, thinking out of the box, I'm trying to do this: Compartment 1: Overflow pipe from tank with filter sock + Return pump + skimmer Compartment 2: Tee off from overflow pump + DSB + Macroalgae Basically, water flows down from display section and is split into 2, 1/2 goes into Compartment 1, 1/2 goes into Compartment 2. Compartment 2 is the Refugium/DSB area which will overflow back into Compartment 1. Compartment 1 also contains the return pump and skimmer. To cut down on heat in the tank (and reduce the number of pumps in the sump), I'm trying to avoid using the 2x reactors. However, is a DSB refugium recommended? Is it effective to remove nitrates and phosphates? I will probably use a Beamswork LED light to light the refugium (the 9W clip on one that I'm using for my office tank should be good enough). Final question, for freshwater sumps, the tank maker usually puts a slope in the floor of the first compartment. This would not work well for my skimmer. Should I ask him not to put a slope? Would this be bad for my marine tank? Thanks in advance!
  16. You can try LCK201, I got mine from there last weekend.
  17. I cut short the cycle by using live sand, cured live rock and daily overdose of bb for 2 weeks. Livestock went in after 2 weeks.
  18. I've been waiting for a month and a half for Ken to get my 400gpd system done up, and it's still not ready yet
  19. I have that in my tank as well, but I saw it retract very quickly when my shrimp walked over it. Not sure if it's aiptasia or not, but looks like it
  20. Mine is working very well. I changed the wooden block to Sander 2 (bought from C328) and it's producing fine bubbles for me. Managed to start pulling some light brown skimmate over the weekend. I first installed it last Thursday.
  21. Just to add on the topic of pumps, I dropped by AquaMarin on Saturday and picked up a Skimz pump - the one they use for their larger iBox Nano. It's a variable flow pump that runs from 200-600L/Hr. I have it running at 400L/Hr in my OF Nano2 (24 litres)
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