straydum
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Posts posted by straydum
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after my first change of NSW on 31st dec (8 jerry cans in total and nearly died)..
spent the rest of the day setting up phosphate, carbon reactor, dosing pump and tidy up the cables.
cant seem to find anti slam hinges though.. any recommendation bros?
you can always buy those small rubber things and place them when the doors meet, not really anti slam but at least gets rid of the sound.
btw is your chiller / condenser placed inside your cabinet? wouldn't heat / air circulation be a problem?
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for those looking, couple of flame angels at ah beng, >2" onwards
2 multibar angels at iwarna
1 beautiful coral beauty at irene
, ~4" -
i wouldn't turn on my chiller but i would run my skimmer, especially if there're new rocks and new sand in the tank
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red notes = $10 notes,
25 reds = $250
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a simple 5 seconds on google will tell you that mantis shrimps dwell in the sea, hence salt water NOT fresh water.
you'll be much better off reading up on the many helpful sources at your fingertips rather then jump in straight for a shrimp which would most likely not be properly cared for.
here's one for a start: A Load of Learnin' About Mantis Shrimps
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Hi Bros,
What do you do when you first receive your tank set ?
i. Rinse whole set up with water ?
ii. Fill up, run with pumps and test for leakage ? Then drain everything away (seems quite wasteful) and top up with either salt mix or NSW ?
iii. Others ?
Please enlighten. THanks
looking at the brand new tank, i'll first go
:wub: then fill the system with plain tap water, run it and make sure everything is in place. whether you fill it with tap water or ro/di + salt mix or nsw is all up to you. for me tap water would make things easier to mend any problems, no sticky seawater to work with. the water could still later on be used to flush your toilets or water the plants etc.
for large systems i can see why this would be a waste of water but a leak test + a full system run is definitely important. i suppose you could fill it straight away with salt water if you calculate its worth the risk
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Hi, I'm a newbie to marine and has decided to start a 3ft by 1.5ft x 1.5ft with internal overflow. After reading most of your advices to many junior reefers, I've decided to seek your advice too. Below are some of my doubts that requires your expertise advice.
1) Upon dosing bacteria and prawn for cycling process, may I drop a fish or shrimp after 02 weeks if all parameters readings are ok? Subsequently, may I drop another 02 weeks later...
2) During cycling, is it ok to turn on actinic light only to cultivate coraline algae?
3) To effectively remove nitrate, shall I plant mangroves or use a de-nitrator?
4) During 5%-10% water change, shall I replace cotton filters in the sump to new ones?
5) Should I place coral chips or live rocks in the sump? If mangroves are planted, should I install lighting for the plants?
6) What kind and where to buy mangrove plants?
Thank you.
William.
1. dosing bacteria? if you're cycling with live rocks, bulk of the bacteria should be already present to start with so you just need the prawn to kick of the cycle. if your parameters are stable after the process (ammonia and nitrites are 0 and nitrates are tolerable if not 0 as well) you should be able to have your first fish. i personally find inverts alittle more sensitive but should be fine with proper acclimatization
2. sure, thats what some reefers do
3. i haven't got proper experience with either but you can always consider regular water changes as an alternative to those two choices. saves you the space as well.
4. why would you have to replace them? you could probably wash them but to go so far as change out new ones is not what i'd do.
5. i'd go with live rocks though they may be more expensive than coral chips but its not compulsory to have either. more rocks would boost your bacteria colonies but i feel that this should only be considered in the luxuary of space. space priority should still go to your equipments.
6. mangroves (which i'm assuming will be grown in your sump since you're running an overflow) would surely need a light source to grow. you can quite easily get them on our sale forum here
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collected,
thanks for viewing!
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Hi, how do you reattach ?
if you can catch the floating polyp, just place it in a container with some rubble in an area with very low flow and it should attach itself to the rock quite easily and naturally. some people use rubber bands to hold polyps onto the rocks they want them to stick on. basically as long as the polyp can rest for a long enough time on a rock without being blown off by the flow, it would most usually attach itself
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hello,
i'm selling off excess live rocks that i don't need.
these rocks are hand picked by me from various farms and lfs across singapore with the idea of minimalistic scapes. afterwhich they were dipped, dried, and cooked for 1 month in NSW (with regular water changes) to kill everything, re-establish the bacteria colonies and to cycle the rocks to be place in the tank, hence rendering them 100% pest free. the rocks are currently still being cooked to keep the bacteria alive.
4 pieces (1 is resting on another as can be seen in the 3rd picture) with a total weight of 5kg, the largest piece spans 11"
letting go all 4 pieces at only $20 on a fcfs basis
collection is at tampines
kindly bring your own container / pail to hold the rocks
do pm me if interested
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collected,
thanks for viewing!
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i've tried comparing salifert and api for no3. both results are quite similar thus i didn't suspect any problems with salifert's no3 although the api kit may be too weak a benchmark.
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can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't seem like just bleaching to me, are there already flesh recessions from the sides?
what i would do is first have the brain on the sandbed. when you see extention or when there're feeding tentacles (at night) try spot feeding the small pieces of market prawns and see if it accepts. in my experience, such feeding would normally help or at least slow down the bleaching process
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price revised to $5 for the pair, hope to find them a good home soon.
merry christmas!
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selling go two of mine to make space for other fishes, i won't call them a pair for the squabble quite often but with minimal chasing. both fishes are tiny (less than 1" with the one slightly larger then the other). healthy and feeding on frozen mysis
(from the net)
letting go both at only $8, fcfs
collection is at tampines
do pm me if interested
thanks!
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oh my.. i hate that worm. like what everyone's saying its a bobbit and needs to be flushed down. it would be a good idea to continue to keep an eye out for these pests!
should try inviting cool_guy over to help with your scaping, his scapes are
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great build! and interesting slanted wall
i'm also having doubts whether the chiller's ventilation would be adequate. would it not be possible to turn the chiller exhaust to face either side doors instead? perhaps then you could do something with the doors as well just like how the back panel is now
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if you're taking established live rock from your own tanks, then there would be nothing to cycle unless there is die off which should be extremely minimal seeing that you're just taking rocks out and putting them in another tank. to be safe you could wait it out alittle just like what allantang suggested, as long as ammonia still remains 0 i would say you're good to go.
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updates
decided to keep the mp10 wetside, the rest have be collected
thanks for viewing
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Update:
Finally decided to try with the hood removed (had intended it to be rimless but tank maker made the hood by mistake).
Below is a fts taken today.
i was referring to this fts actually, as you can see the parts under the rocks are almost jet black so i was thinking maybe if the leds created some really sharp shadows.
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great pictures! though the tank seems a little dark, does the led create alot of dark spots via shadows or its just the pictures?
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Is capet anemone aggressive?
not sure how you define aggressive, but its a HUGE headache to remove from rocks if you encounter any problems with them
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if your po4 is zero, red slime growth should at least be retarded? perhaps you can try sucking out all the visible slime, and watch out for any regrowth which shouldn't happen.
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So far Hanna give a better reading.
Have not try other beside Salifert and was shock when Hanna
reading was so much different.
same here, the difference between hanna and salifert is very shocking. perhaps can try madpetz's standard solution to gauge the accuracy?
Aquastyle LED
in DIY Forum
Posted
will be watching this thread in great interest for my tank size is near to yours. if i ever get down to it, i would intend to have my lights strong enough to keep sps at the edges of the tank and at the bottom near the corners even.
may i ask if your plan to keep light demanding corals near the edge of the tank? from how i see it, having the lights closer to the center would mean the corners would get lower light although this would prevent the overspill. did you consider optics? especially for the bulbs towards the edges.