liquidnoise

in FW, there is things like sudden death.....but its not like they r as you describe. My prized xback eating like usually (btw its 4" thick) just died 1 day. Its a big FGT so water is much more stable then a tank plus there is no other aro. Just a pair PDR which has been there with the aro since 3inch. Died 18inch.

how cheap is ur cheap? Cheapest i have seen is $30 in most LFS

2nd day od dosing. pH drop to 7.8. started slowing adding sodium and mag plus pH plus solution. now slowing climbing back to about 7.95. worried if daily dosing will cause pH to crash

mine is a 322 sump. estimate 425l or 112gallon. Base on the formula 15ml for 100gallon is correct? Based on the web it say its beta to do it in the day time coz of oxygen level....I just dosed 15ml yesterday night and notice the drop from 8.2pH to 8.02pH. Increase the pH with pH plus solution and now hopefully the drop will not be tat great. The other way i have not tried to to dose sodium bicarbonate which i have. but I dunno how much to dose so easier to use solution. Last 9 after dosing, i am very happy with the result of how all the corals look and color den before dosing. N02 = 0 N03 3 different test kits shows different. best is 0 worst is between 25-50. didnt test the rest of the parameter as it was really late

think its not the flow that cause my GSP not doing that well. Its my mum who likes to keep moving the corals...

How big is yoiur tank?

Using BSi, coral glue and Epoxy. SO far all the coral can be plucked out from the frag. Glue or gel type find it very messy and hard to stick firmly for placement before hardens

i have elbow and valve. come over select lo...even pipes. for you FOC!

i am alittle confused. is it daily or weekly dosing?

found this. http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/116-vinegar-dosing-methodology-for-the-marine-aquarium Based on what the article stated. 15ml for 100gallons which is about slight more then a 322 cabinet sump (about 90 gallon without the sump). increase weekly to 45ml.. BECAREFUL coz it does decrease pH. without even dosing i notice slight decrease in pH with more livestock. thus, the worst is to have a pH swing. so slow dosing in in day time is recommended. For newbie like me, 5ml is like maybe a small bottle cap, so maybe do 3/4 or half a cap for the first week and observe before increasing doses. Hope this help.

if u wan take maybe 200ml of water, can meet you some where in serangoon or you can cum over my place. Have N02 & 3 (different API and tetra). P04, KH & GH, Ca.

vodka serves me beta! wahahaha

I was told white vingar can reduce nitrates...any1 tried? I read in one of the website that they use Vodka 0.1ml per 25 gallon. increase dosage to 0.5ml weekly until level is low. I was told for our common white vingar we need to increase the dosage?

tats good to know. THX!

I was chatting with a friend yesterday who kept marine tank before. He said that there is a doctor fish tat eats parasites off the other fishes. Is that true? if so where to buy?

u tried using UVC? wats the po4 and no3 reading?

including transport and filter box?

http://singapore.gumtree.sg/c-Stuff-for-Sale-Household-Furniture-Selling-fish-tank-W0QQAdIdZ495918457 round tank for sale if u interested

Wah! will relly love to but jelly fish needs "cirular" tanks and low flow, etc. Its really not easy to keep......do read up before buying. If you want I can pass you a (2ft) bigger tank but its a rectangle tank. You may consider silcone clear plastci on the corners to make the tank as edgeless as possible. Mayb you can use a cannister but mesh up the let. Low flow as well because the dift ard like ghost. Then again, its very challenging to keep.

Realise my zoas head keep dropping of the colony....the strange thing is tat some of the bigger heads actuallu swee swee parked themshelves onto the rocks. but most will drop on the sand bed. some seems to be opening up on the sand bed even. I tried to stick them on the rocks but its a very messy affair as they are so small and sometimes i ended up glueing the whole thing. Any1 have such experience? wat you you guys normally do? just leave them alone?

we are all hobbist...at least thats what i like to think. So a little effort may go far for others why not. Besides, wat goes ard cums ard. I benefited from others so i m just paying forward. No biggie..

quick ovservation from my 3 different (actually 4 plus 1 smaller). 1 do very very well near light (4 x T5; 3 blue 1 white) other 1 seems ok but nt ovbergrowing. The last one top nearer to the top is not doing well, growth in side and bottom. Maybe depends on the zoas...

i have sand. new unused. cun finish so left overs. stay in serangoon. FOC

Common names: lobed brain coral, open brain coral Natural origin: Indo-Pacific Sensitivity (Level 2): These corals are generally tolerant, but need to be fed well. Feeding: Trachyphyllidae have impressive prey capture ability. They will ready eat a variety of meaty aquarium foods. Be forewarned, they can even eat small aquarium fish! Lighting (Level 4 to 7): These corals seem to prefer moderate lighting. They can adapt to more intense lighting if allowed to do so slowly over time. As with most all corals, sudden changes in lighting can cause bleaching. Water flow: Moderate to stronger water flow is ideal. Placement: These are very aggressive corals best placed in a sand or rubble bottom. Give them plenty of room. Sometimes tangs and hermit crabs will nip at and/or irritate the coral's soft tissue. Keeping the tank well fed can help prevent competition for food. General: Slow tissue recession can be a sign of starvation. Though these corals have impressive feeder tentacles, in captivity, it may take them some time to get "settled in." If after several weeks you still do not observe an extension of feeder tentacles, you can try to encourage a feeding response with night-time target feeding. One hour after the lights go out, turn off circulation during feeding so that the food can fall onto the coral. Give the coral an hour or two to "grab hold" of the food, then turn the water flow back on. Do this daily (or every other day) until feeder tentacles extend regularly in anticipation of feeding.